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Biggest tires i can put on my 95 without lifting


 
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gihan
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Joined: 14 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: ESSEX

PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 10:05    Post subject: Biggest tires i can put on my 95 without lifting Reply with quote

Hi Guys ,
HELLO EVERYONE ,
Im new to the forum,
I guess this question have asked before, but i have tried to find no joy , so i just thought to ask you guys,
im not gonna go off road, just like the look of nice big tires,
so was wondering whats the biggest tires i can have without lifting and not touching the arches ?

thanks
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MikeyB
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Joined: 27 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 22:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

All i know is that the bigger the tire the more the strain on the engine at low kmph
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DaveWall
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Joined: 12 Nov 2007
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Location: Gloucestershire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2019 18:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tallest or widest?
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gihan
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Joined: 14 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: ESSEX

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2019 19:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveWall wrote:
Tallest or widest?



I LIKE TO PUT 285/75/16 OR SIMILAR
is this possible
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diggerdave
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Joined: 03 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 14:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

The standard is 265/70/16. Some have reported no problems going up to 265/75/16, at which size you have a much better selection of all-terrain or mud types. However other people - myself included - found that they catch at that size (it probably depends on the shape of the corners, and whether they're mud terrains with big, blocky edges). A 2" suspension lift cured it. I haven't tried it myself but I don't think you'll manage 285/75/16 without a 2" suspension lift, and even then you may find you need hub spacers. Personally, I find that 265/75/16 or the 235/85/16s that I run now are sufficient for my needs (lots of green laning) with minimal impact on day-to-day driving.

A 2" suspension lift can be achieved relatively easily - unlike some vehicles, there's no need to lengthen brake lines or handbrake cables, or extend propshafts, and the CV joints aren't put under any undue stress.
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1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles
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gihan
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Joined: 14 Jan 2019
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 14:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

diggerdave wrote:
The standard is 265/70/16. Some have reported no problems going up to 265/75/16, at which size you have a much better selection of all-terrain or mud types. However other people - myself included - found that they catch at that size (it probably depends on the shape of the corners, and whether they're mud terrains with big, blocky edges). A 2" suspension lift cured it. I haven't tried it myself but I don't think you'll manage 285/75/16 without a 2" suspension lift, and even then you may find you need hub spacers. Personally, I find that 265/75/16 or the 235/85/16s that I run now are sufficient for my needs (lots of green laning) with minimal impact on day-to-day driving.

A 2" suspension lift can be achieved relatively easily - unlike some vehicles, there's no need to lengthen brake lines or handbrake cables, or extend propshafts, and the CV joints aren't put under any undue stress.




thats great advice and thanks,
but what would be the cheapest way of 2" lift,
im on a very low budget,
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diggerdave
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 15:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was in the same boat when I did my lift about four or five years ago and the cheapest possible solution that I found was to use spring spacers on top of the springs on the rear and lifting blocks that fit on top of the spring/shock absorber at the front.

I was lucky enough to find some rear spring spacers on e bay, but if you cannot find any you may have to purchase some +2 springs (I think Milners did them at one time? Otherwise Pedders do the springs - I thing Roughtrax stock them?). No need to change the shocks, as in my experience the anti-roll bar tends to prevent the shocks reaching their full extension (allowing them to 'bottom out' is supposedly a good way of ruining shocks). On teh other hand +2" shocks from Monroe were cheap when I bought them (when I fitted some 3 years ago D8433 was the part number for the +2s, D8343 for standard). You can keep your existing springs. Rear springs are easy enough to deal with, but you will need some decent heavy duty spring compressors, especially as you need to compress them enough to fit the spacer on top and it can be a bit fiddly.

There's lifting spacers for the front listed on e bay at the moment https://www.e bay.co.uk/itm/For-96-02-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Colorado-FRONT-2-inch-Lift-and-Leveling-Lift-Kit/183181601579 although it's not the cheapest that I've ever seen. I think it is still considerable cheaper than buying a +2 spring/shock set from Pedders though. You can keep your existing spring/shock but fitting the spacer involves removing them from the car and bolting the spacer to the top and then refitting.
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gihan
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Joined: 14 Jan 2019
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 15:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

diggerdave wrote:
I was in the same boat when I did my lift about four or five years ago and the cheapest possible solution that I found was to use spring spacers on top of the springs on the rear and lifting blocks that fit on top of the spring/shock absorber at the front.

I was lucky enough to find some rear spring spacers on e bay, but if you cannot find any you may have to purchase some +2 springs (I think Milners did them at one time? Otherwise Pedders do the springs - I thing Roughtrax stock them?). No need to change the shocks, as in my experience the anti-roll bar tends to prevent the shocks reaching their full extension (allowing them to 'bottom out' is supposedly a good way of ruining shocks). On teh other hand +2" shocks from Monroe were cheap when I bought them (when I fitted some 3 years ago D8433 was the part number for the +2s, D8343 for standard). You can keep your existing springs. Rear springs are easy enough to deal with, but you will need some decent heavy duty spring compressors, especially as you need to compress them enough to fit the spacer on top and it can be a bit fiddly.

There's lifting spacers for the front listed on e bay at the moment https://www.e bay.co.uk/itm/For-96-02-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Colorado-FRONT-2-inch-Lift-and-Leveling-Lift-Kit/183181601579 although it's not the cheapest that I've ever seen. I think it is still considerable cheaper than buying a +2 spring/shock set from Pedders though. You can keep your existing spring/shock but fitting the spacer involves removing them from the car and bolting the spacer to the top and then refitting.


Thanks a lot ,
i have to think bit more about this, im gonna search these and will have to do a budget ,

i will be using the vehicle as my daily driver and i really like to keep it as original but only to change the look of the tires ,so with your experience and knowledge WITHOUT A LIFT the biggest tires i can go is 265/75/16, but how about 275/70/16 ?
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gihan
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 20:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

was
wondering will series 80 wheels fit on a 90 ?
seen some nice 80 wheels with 265/75/16, what you guys think will this bolt on without a issue ?
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diggerdave
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 20:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

If looks are the main focus, getting the tyres to sit level with the wheel arches will make a big difference, you can do wonders by increasing (decreasing?) the offset of the wheels either by getting new wheels or adding wheel spacers. It's not something I've ever looked into (my narrow-body version doesn't have the plastic arch flares so I've never felt the need) so I haven't got a clue... So hopefully someone will be along who can advise. I'm sure I've read of people adding 80-series wheels, but I can't remember more than that, sorry!
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gihan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

diggerdave wrote:
If looks are the main focus, getting the tyres to sit level with the wheel arches will make a big difference, you can do wonders by increasing (decreasing?) the offset of the wheels either by getting new wheels or adding wheel spacers. It's not something I've ever looked into (my narrow-body version doesn't have the plastic arch flares so I've never felt the need) so I haven't got a clue... So hopefully someone will be along who can advise. I'm sure I've read of people adding 80-series wheels, but I can't remember more than that, sorry!


"If looks are the main focus, getting the tyres to sit level with the wheel arches"

Exactly,Thats what im after

Colorado is my daily driver and im very happy with the factory ride height ,dont even mind bit lowered even ,
all im after is just to get rid of that empty space between wheel arches and tires,


I DON'T KNOW IF I'M CORRECT HERE ,
but i checked with the full lock whats the nearest point to the current tires (265/70/16) its the front mud flap, and other than that i got about 1.5-2 inch space all around,
so was wondering 285/75/15 is taller about 3" and wider about 1" than my current one, and if im correct my factory wheels are ET 15,
If i were to have ET.00 wheels with 285/70/16 tires it looks like i can get away with just removing the front mud flap ,,,
Does this sounds rite ?
or im been stupid
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Wildmutt
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Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Posts: 260
Location: Hamble,Southampton

PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 21:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi. Yes you can fit 80 series wheels to a Colorado. They will fill the wheel arch out nicely and give you the look you want. They are zero offset if I remember rightly. You may have to search for a set though.
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98 Colorado GX
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Keeping everyone happy is impossible. Pissing them off is a piece of cake......I like cake.
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Wildmutt
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 21:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also had 8 inch zero offset wheels with 285/75 tyres fiited(not 80 wheelds though) but had to take them off as I had problems when towing my caravan. They are now sat in the back garden not being used.
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98 Colorado GX
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Keeping everyone happy is impossible. Pissing them off is a piece of cake......I like cake.
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