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1996 prado key details


 
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Mark_R
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Joined: 10 Feb 2019
Posts: 11
Location: North Wales

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 22:52    Post subject: 1996 prado key details Reply with quote

I have recently bought a 1996 japanese imort Prado. It came with an all metal toyota key that has a 5 digit number stamped on the blade. Also came with a Second key cut on a Silca blank.
The car is fitted with a Laserline alarm/immobiliser and that has a fob.
The keys both work in the ignition and the rear door nut not in the drivers door.
Operating the rear door lock only works the rear door lock. No effect on the others.
The drivers door lock does nothing at all.
The Laserline fob does operate the central locking.

JUst wondering if 1996 japanese 'cruisers had a 'smart' key or just plain keys.
Also why the central locking doesnt work.

Cheers.
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Mark_R
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Joined: 10 Feb 2019
Posts: 11
Location: North Wales

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for following up my own post but my first old Landcruiser and had Series Landrovers up to now!
After having a good read of the forum it may be that mine never had an immobiliser;there doesn't seem to be a 'security' light on the dashboard.

Is it possible that the Japanese market didn't demand an immobiliser in 1996?
That might explain the aftermarket system that's fitted now.

If so then the only problem I have is that the key doesn't operate the central locking in the drivers door.
The central locking button on the drivers door does work except for the offside passenger door. This seems to independant of any key/button operation and needs to be locked via the push down button internally.
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modvrs
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Joined: 03 Oct 2013
Posts: 294
Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 11:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear door behaviour sounds normal to me. For the driver's door the first port of call should be the wiring loom from the door to the A-pillar; I'd suspect a broken wire there as the most likely suspect. That fixed it for me.
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1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado 3.4VX
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DaveWall
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Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Posts: 967
Location: Gloucestershire

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

My UK 97 has an Immobiliser chip within the key, and a separate Toyota fob for the remote central locking...  Does sound like your import may not have the 'standard' setup, if you wonder into a key cutting shop, they can soon scan the key and see if it does have a chip in for you, or on the spare cut key, there would normally be some way of opening up the handle of the key to embed the chip (this isn't always obvious though)

I think the LED on the dash may be more linked to the Toyota Alarm rather than the immobiliser, I'm not sure on this though....

And yes if drivers door un locks but doesn't operate the central locking, check the wires in the short bit of loom between the door and the body of the vehicle plugs in just up by the fuse box inside the footwell... you can thread it back through into the door and out through the speaker hole to access it pretty easily...
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Mark_R
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Joined: 10 Feb 2019
Posts: 11
Location: North Wales

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 14:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="DaveWall"]My UK 97 has an Immobiliser chip within the key, and a separate Toyota fob for the remote central locking...  Does sound like your import may not have the 'standard' setup, if you wonder into a key cutting shop, they can soon scan the key and see if it does have a chip in for you, or on the spare cut key, there would normally be some way of opening up the handle of the key to embed the chip (this isn't always obvious though)

I think the LED on the dash may be more linked to the Toyota Alarm rather than the immobiliser, I'm not sure on this though....

And yes if drivers door un locks but doesn't operate the central locking, check the wires in the short bit of loom between the door and the body of the vehicle plugs in just up by the fuse box inside the footwell... you can thread it back through into the door and out through the speaker hole to access it pretty easily...[/quote]

Hmm. Thing is I can start it with the plain metal key (with the plastic handled key and the Laserline fob far away from the car. ) Once Ive switched the aftermarket alarm off that is.
There is nothing resembling a security led on the dash.
I'm pretty convinced that it never had a factory system.

The drivers door won't unlock at all on the key, only when I operate the aftermarket fob.
I'll check out the loom next week. Having a day on it to replace the rad, fluids and tyres.
Looking forwrd to the exciting auto box draining.......

None of this with leaky old Landrovers!
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DaveWall
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Joined: 12 Nov 2007
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Location: Gloucestershire

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 19:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah right - you mean the key doesn't work at all in the lock?  or does it fit and turn the lock but not unlock the drivers door?

I realise you mean the spare cut Key is just a plain metal key so very unlikely to have the immobiliser chip at all.... I didn't know they did one without a factory immobiliser, but it is very likely with different specs across the world... I have before now, seen a chip taped up behind the dash with the induction loop next to it to effectively bypass the immobiliser so multiple cheap copy keys can be used - I doubt this is the case but maybe worth exploring a bit more...

Sounds very much like no immobiliser and an after market alarm with remote central locking.

Maybe whip a bit of the trim off and have a look round first, see what's been done before...
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Mark_R
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Joined: 10 Feb 2019
Posts: 11
Location: North Wales

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 23:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveWall wrote:
Ah right - you mean the key doesn't work at all in the lock?  or does it fit and turn the lock but not unlock the drivers door?


Key goes in and turns a quarter turn forwards or backwards. But nothing happens.

DaveWall wrote:
I realise you mean the spare cut Key is just a plain metal key so very unlikely to have the immobiliser chip at all.... I didn't know they did one without a factory immobiliser, but it is very likely with different specs across the world... I have before now, seen a chip taped up behind the dash with the induction loop next to it to effectively bypass the immobiliser so multiple cheap copy keys can be used - I doubt this is the case but maybe worth exploring a bit more...


I hadn't thought of that. The lack of a security LED makes me think it never had a chipped key though.

DaveWall wrote:
Sounds very much like no immobiliser and an after market alarm with remote central locking.


Seem smost likely and I think i'd prefer that to chips taped behind the dash Smile

DaveWall wrote:
Maybe whip a bit of the trim off and have a look round first, see what's been done before...


I'll try to have a poke round next week while we do the other prep.

Thanks for the replies.
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DaveWall
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Joined: 12 Nov 2007
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Location: Gloucestershire

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would have thought it's the correct key for the door lock then, I haven't ever taken any note of whether the drivers lock is physically connected to the back of the lock, or whether it's switch and powered separately with an actuator (obviously there is a 12v actuator for the lock/unlock button to work it anyway so may just be powered, in which case it could still be the wiring loom through the door aperture that is at fault...


The door card comes of surprisingly easily just go careful not to break the plastic clips around the bottom/side edges, whip it off and try the key, see what is happening...
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Mark_R
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Joined: 10 Feb 2019
Posts: 11
Location: North Wales

PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 17:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

So finally got round to looking at this. Fault was at the lock.
The actuator motor had got wet and given up the ghost.
Turns out it's a common problem for Toyotas & Lexus and many cars use the same motor in their actuators.

The motor is a Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125. Just need to split the actuator case and out it comes.
The worm drive on the shaft locates on small collet clenched to the motor shaft. I managed to remove the collet from the shaft after gently heating it.

Just waiting for my £2.50 motor to turn up from e bay now Smile
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Mark_R
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Joined: 10 Feb 2019
Posts: 11
Location: North Wales

PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 17:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and the drivers side lock works noiw after a bit of working the key back and forth.
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DaveWall
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Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Posts: 967
Location: Gloucestershire

PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2019 5:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one - I find these really cheap motors operating very important parts on new kit....

Could be worse - Discovery 3's have the same problem on their rear door - and you have to break the door to be able to open it as their is NO handle/manual release!
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