The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[the.oak]

Hello all

I have just got myself a 2001 Colorado d4d 5 door.  Only 122k , engine seems excellent.

The question is is how much rust is normal underneath for one of this age?
The major areas of concern are the rear of the inner sill has completely gone, six inches or so a hole. The chassis has been plate welded both sides, it seems to be a ok job and plenty of waxoyl has been applied to the whole chassis.
The rear trailing arm bracket has been plate welded onto the axle, the other sides bracket is rotten and will need similar repair shortly.

There is a lot of general rot underneath. A lot of waxoyl, some helping, some detrimental.  I have hacked off quite a bit and reapplied where suitable. Some areas it seems pointless, for example rusty coil springs , rusty brake calipers. No time to clean these parts off at the mo.

So are rotten sills  and chassis common at this age?

Thanks
J

[Google]

[mikerad]

My 1998 has just had £600 of welding,rear sills,chassis cross member etc, seems common,the guy who did the welding said he would clean it,underseal and waxoil for £200 so im thinking of getting it done

[BobMurphy]

The sills have gone on my 1998 'GX'. I'm in the process of removing the entire sill moulding and will be welding the six foot replacement panels back in over the next couple of months.

My car came from Aberdeen and appeared very rusty underneath when I bought it in 2008. However it is actually better than my 2001 'Amazon' which came from Yorkshire and this is the first bit of welding I have had to do on it.

Bob.

[DaveWall]

If you ask me - DONT Waxoyl it.... the stuff looks good when applied - BUT EVERY vehicle I have seen that has had it on, has rusted really bad!  

Use Dinitrol, or a proper anti rust paint, something like Rustoleum one coat....  I think Waxoyl just hides the rust, and traps water next to the rusting metal.

[DaveWall]

As for it being common - it's all a matter of how many miles it has done on UK roads.... vs how well it's been looked after!

Mine is pretty clean underneath but I have fired paint at it every 2 or 3 years....  

I only have a couple of rust spots one annoying one around the front window where autoglass scratched the paintwork! It's not really noticable yet, but will need some attention soon (and is in a damn annoying place).

and 2ndly I'm noticing that where the plastic arch mouldings vibrate against the body, they have thinned the paint and if you move the moulding you can see the start of a corrosive line in the paintwork...  I think this would be a common problem.

[the.oak]

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking the worst that I was the only one suffering with rust and everoelse was driving  solid trucks. So it's good to hear that I am not the only one.
My car too is from Aberdeen. With very low anual mileage I'm guessing a winter car, caked in salt.

I can see what you mean about Waxoyl increasing the rust, I've been picking bits off all weekend, each bit a water trap, it all adds up.

I may try some of that Dinitrol stuff.

On a positive, the more I drive it the more it seems worth spending money on to keep, it's a cracking 4x4 !!

[mattsim]

I would disagree with the comments regarding waxoyl. I have religiously waxoyled LandRovers in the past and found it to be very beneficial.
However, there is no point applying it over 17 years worth of muck and crud. You need to get that ALL off first - together with flaky old paint etc.
Old fashioned underseal holds water but in my experience, waxoyl does not.
Waxoyl does thin with steam cleaning, so reapplying every other year or so is a good idea.
Remember that no underseal will restore structural integrity and if is already rotten, its too late.
_________________
'In the kingdom of the blind, the one eyed man is king'

[Juddian]

I used to use Waxoyl a lot, then discovered Bilt Hamber's anti rust products, realised times had moved on, so did i.

Like Dinitrol it's more expensive than Waxoyl but applies better without as much waste, the long applicator probes with atomiser tips for cavities and inside the chassis are a revelation.

To do a thorough job using their rust remover/treatments and large aerosols reckon on £200/250 in product for a vehicle as large as a cruiser because there is a lot to treat, if i'm going to rustproof i'm going to do a thorough job, if you have spraying equipment then you could save quite a bit on the outer wax, but for cavities and inside the chassis those probes the aerosols do a superb job, well up to professional standards.

I have no association with Bilt Hamber other than as a satisfied customer.

[Poppius]

Hello guys! If you don't mind ill borrow this thread a little? So... my MY1996 KZJ-90 has rust holes in front of both rear wheels. How have you been repairing these problems? Is there any pre fabricated sheet metal fixing parts for rear wheel arcs on market?

With BR, Poppius

[rjd116]