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Fuel tank removal


 
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Beastrider
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Joined: 30 May 2019
Posts: 30
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 0:47    Post subject: Fuel tank removal Reply with quote

Hello, I am new to the LandCruiser world and am thoroughly enjoying my 1999 diesel Colorado KZJ95 Auto. I am slowly getting through the various jobs needed and, next, I am planning to remove the fuel tank so I can repair/replace the pickup pipe assembly. I can see some corrosion on the pipes and have read this is a common problem area, so I want to inspect it more closely.

The Haynes manual suggests to relieve some pressure in the fuel line, but I don’t think there should be any. Mine doesn’t have a sub tank so, as far as I can see, there’s no feed pump - is there? Is it simply a matter of clamping the hoses to prevent leaks and separating them from the pickup pipes? Any other precautions I should take?

When the tank is out, I plan to:
1. Clean, paint and waxoyl the tank and straps
2. Clean, paint and waxoyl the body panels above/around the tank
3. Replace the filler hose jubilee clips (stainless)

Is there anything else I should do while the tank is out?
What is the electrical connection on top of the pickup pipe for?

After reassembly, there’s bound to be some air in the feed pipe to the injection pump. Does that give a problem when I start the engine for the first time?
Thanks for your help and a really interesting forum.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 0:47    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Col 7
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Joined: 07 Sep 2010
Posts: 60
Location: W Yorks

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning.

Hazard a guess electrical connection is to fuel level float as no submerged pump in tank.

That area is a very weak link on our Colorado's, out of sight etc...so well worth replacing
any pipework that is past a wire wool clean up. Mr T metal pipes are/were about £70 each and are a sod to thread
the front couple of feet through chassis.

Not unusual therefore to find rear 3 - 4 feet that rot cut out and replaced with proper black flexible fuel hose clipped in place.
End of starting probs due to air in supply line through pinholes in metal pipes in the tank area.

Push the primer 'button' on top of the fuel filter until it feels 'solid' - that clears air from pipes and eases start up for pump.

Try it now before you start replacing lines to get a feel for job - if takes a lot of thumbwork to stiffen up, air already in lines!

Good luck.

Col
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Col 7
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Joined: 07 Sep 2010
Posts: 60
Location: W Yorks

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorryfolks, just noticed date on post Embarassed .
Ads have resurrected it from last year.
Must be sorted by now...…………..
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Beastrider
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Joined: 30 May 2019
Posts: 30
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 19:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi - thanks for the reply. As far as I can see, most of the pipe lengths are ok - just those on the tank are rusty but I’ll take a close look.  I’ll  keep your advice in mind about the primer button. Thanks
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Col 7
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Joined: 07 Sep 2010
Posts: 60
Location: W Yorks

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 21:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh the joys of not being able to see which screen opened when replying Embarassed
Apols, my ref to orig. date was on wrong topic.

Yes, the pipes near tank top really do suffer, almost to the point of do a pre-emptive repair,
while you're in the vicinity, save time later!

Cheers
Col
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diggerdave
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Joined: 03 Oct 2014
Posts: 448
Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 21:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although... mine are still good after 208k miles. And my truck is treated pretty hard. All I'm saying is that there is no need to assume they will fail. If mine do fail I dread the thought of removing the fuel tank armour bolts.
_________________
1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles
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Beastrider
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Joined: 30 May 2019
Posts: 30
Location: Wales

PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 23:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks both. I had a good close look today and, although there is some rust, it doesnt look serious. I think I'll prioritise some other jobs and keep an eye on those pipes.

I know what you mean about the tank shield. I removed mine and broke one of the rear bolts - they're only M8. Thankfully easily accessable to drill out and tap oversize. The side ones have big threads but small heads - 6point socket and lots of penetrating oil needed!
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diggerdave
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Joined: 03 Oct 2014
Posts: 448
Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2020 0:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a job I wish I had done when I first got the truck, and renewed the bolts with stainless and tapped the holes. Heigh-ho. I did it with the rest of the underbody armour and have never had any problems getting them off.
_________________
1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles
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diggerdave
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Joined: 03 Oct 2014
Posts: 448
Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2020 0:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

(I mean renewing the bolts, not pre-empting the fuel lines)
_________________
1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles
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