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Any advice? Possibly end of the road for my Manual Diesel 90


 
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HDJ80
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Joined: 22 Feb 2007
Posts: 43
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2019 13:41    Post subject: Any advice? Possibly end of the road for my Manual Diesel 90 Reply with quote

Hi All,

Long time lurker here, I'm after any advice if anyone's been in the same boat. Smile

My 98 1KZ-TE manual has just failed it's MOT (3 Major corrosion failures near body mount) I've not spoken to the garage yet but I'm assuming this under bodywork isn't repairable without taking the whole body off? I've seen ~1" holes near the top of the suspension struts. Sad Mechanically everything else is fine, engine is a beast.

I take it this would be far too big/expensive a job for any garage to do, even if they had a four poster that could do it? Also issues with the body bending once it's being lifted?

Assuming so, I think I'm looking at a 100 series, are these any better for underneath? Anecdotally I've heard the 90 is made from an inferior steel, and it does seem to rot for fun underneath with little encouragement.

Note also in the past it's been fully treated with Dinitrol, however this turned out to do more harm than good. It looks great at first then within a couple of years it dries out, cracks (think like The Giants Causeway) and stores water which then attacks the metal with a vengeance. It's certainly not a spray and forget solution. Last year I was scraping chunks of rubbery stuff off attached to bigger bits of rusted chassis/body!

Also tried Neutra-Rust on the wire brushed underside and although it looked promising at first, within a year it was showing rust coming through again. I think this points to the metal being poor quality as Neutra Rust was designed to treat metal boats and oil rigs etc. from constant salt spray.

Any advice appreciated, did you stick with it or move on. Smile

I think the way forward with under body treatment (I know it's a subject in itself) is try to get back to light rust/bare metal then Red Oxide followed by a black chassis paint, then keep an eye on it. I wouldn't bother with Oil (gets washed off) or wax based treatmens that would seem to need regular top ups.

Any advice appreciated, sorry if it sounds like a rant! Just all at sixes and sevens haha.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2019 13:41    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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HDJ80
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Joined: 22 Feb 2007
Posts: 43
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 2:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Lads.

Guess there's no love for the 90, future buyers beware! Smile
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locodriver65
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Joined: 19 Apr 2009
Posts: 175
Location: WEST MIDLANDS UK

PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 12:58    Post subject: rust under body problems Reply with quote

Hi.
My 90 is 22 years old. and every thing works as it should..
I have tried over the years to protect the underside of the body and chassis. I must say that on the whole I have managed to keep the rust to a minimum.  However I have found some rust just along the edges of the front wheel arches behind the plastic trim, the off side is a bit worse than the near side...never thought it would be a problem there.

The sills are as good as new with no rust on the inner rear areas just in front of the rear wheels. No rust on the door edges ..

Were did the poor steel info come from?

what is the wheel design on your LC. I would like to buy a couple of spares for mine..

Regards

Paul
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diggerdave
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Joined: 03 Oct 2014
Posts: 347
Location: York

PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 11:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't answer the specific question about the body mounts. However anything is repairable, it's just a matter of cost. If everything else about the truck is good, then up to a certain point I would get it repaired. With the relatively low value of these trucks now it's never going to be cost effective to do any major repairs - you will never get your money back (unless they become an unlikely classic in years to come). However if it does a job that you need, and you're fond enough of the vehicle, then it's worth repairing in my opinion... but only you can decide if the cost is worth it.

If you decide to part with it there are usually a couple of people advertising that they buy any landcruiser in any condition on e bay and they might pay more than the usual scrappy.

There are some reports that the 100 series is prone to rust more than the 90 series. I haven't got one, nor have I examined any with a view to buying, so it's only based on what some owners have said.
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1997 KZJ90 (narrowbody) 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 210k miles
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DaveWall
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Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Posts: 895
Location: Gloucestershire

PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2019 18:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's not visable it's usually not as expensive as you think to reinforce/plate up around the mounts.... Cut and remove the corroded bit give edges a good paint up, clean a shiny edge and mig a plate over, suprisingly easy and if out of sight doesn't even need to look pretty....

cheaper than diagnosing a computer fault on a Range Rover!
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Elanman
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Joined: 13 Feb 2015
Posts: 23
Location: Warwickshire

PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 21:16    Post subject: Rust Rear Arches Reply with quote

I have just given Gerald the weld permission to sort out the rear wheel arches of my SWB 90, I think then I am going to get a Dinitrol   treatment, cost seems to be about 1500 which seems a lot of money to spend, that is until you look for a replacement.
Just what do I replace it with?
I use it for 2 dogs and off to local shoots that is what it was bought for six years ago, since then  its been to France twice  North South and East of England. Seems to me it has to be worth the 1500 to do it again for another six years.
However, it will still do my shoots ferry my dogs to training and so forth, but I now have a LC120 with a V6 in and I love it.
Before anybody asks I am not selling it, I have on average two or three people every month knock my door asking if I want to sell it.
One day someone might offer 5k and I might be tempted but only tempted I wont sell it.
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