The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

Daz5023 · * Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Posts: 31 Location: Cornwall

Hi. I have a couple of questions about my LC if any one can answer please.
I have just been under the truck with a wire brush as the truck is booked in at the garage for a waxoyl tomorrow. Although I was careful around the rear heater pipes one of them has developed a leak. Is the best way to replace the pipe with rubber hose or should metal pipe be used? Also is it ok to drive if I turn both heaters to cool or will the coolant still leak out? Thanks

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regthing · Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 20:59 Post subject:

I found the same problem with mine just over a year a go.

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6342&highlight=rear+heater

They will continue to leak even if you turn off the heaters. I haven't done it yet but there are a few on here who have replaced them with rubber hose. Mine are still bypassed at the moment, I had intended on making some new ones of out stainless steel tubing from work but I think rubber will be my final choice as well.
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Daz5023 · * Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Posts: 31 Location: Cornwall

Gazbo · Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 12:20 Post subject:

i did mine the other week, try to be quick doing it as the engine is a buggar To bleed! i fitted a bleed screw to the top heater hose

Daz5023 · * Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Posts: 31 Location: Cornwall

For anyone wanting to replace the standard rear heater pipes on the 90, here is a list of parts and prices from when I replaced mine.
I bought a 5 metre length of 8mm ID Goodyear heater hose off e bay (£22 delivered) and 1 metre of 10mm ID heater hose (£4) and 2x 10mm to 8mm metal reducers (£5-e bay).
I hadn't noticed until my first attempt at the replacement that the original two short rubber hoses at the rear underneath are 10mm ID reducing down to 8mm - hence the need for 10mm hose and reducers to connect to the 8mm pipe.
I used the original coolant hose clamps as they looked ok and used large cable ties to secure the hoses to the original metal heater pipes.
In total I used nearer 4 metres of 8mm hose and a couple of 6" or so pieces of the 10mm hose.
Once the pieces were all connected at the rear under the truck I filled a squeezy bottle (old distilled water bottle) with coolant and with the rear heater set to hot forced coolant down one of the hoses (from the engine bay connection) until coolant returned through the other hose. Having made sure coolant was flowing to and returning from the rear heater I connected the hoses back up to the engine. Job done.
It is a bit of a fiddley job taking longer than I expected which was mainly due to those awkward spring hose clamps which would have been avoided if I had used another type instead. I guess it should take between 1-2 hours depending on what facilities you have to work on the truck (I only had a driveway to work on and it was also dark!).

aaronplant · Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 16:59 Post subject:

Thanks Daz!

I did some work on the steering rack bushes recently and while I was under there, I noticed some very very dodgy looking metal pipes, which I initially thought were fuel pipes! (P A N I C!) But after a quick investigation I realised they were the rear heater pipes.

I'm going to have to get this sorted sooner rather than later, so your post was extremely useful!

Thanks,

Aaron.

lennytoyota · **** Joined: 25 Aug 2004 Posts: 404 Location: Liverpool

Mine look a bit naughty and could do with a replacement any idea how much Mt T would charge.

aaronplant · Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 17:44 Post subject:

Hi,

Well, I did the metal hear pipe bypass on Saturday. Thanks to Daz I managed it all in one hit without any issues. I did get a bit wet with anti-freeze, but that was because I am an idiot and disconnected the hoses without having anything ready to drain them into!!

Picture me lying under the car, with my finger over the end of the pipe, yelling for my wife to bring a bowl! LOL.

The 10m heater pipe, I got from AutoSiliconeHoses.com (£54.10 ex. VAT), and the 2m of 10mm Hose (£11.58).

Then, just to make things complicated they emailed me to tell me that they couldn't supply the silicone hose, and would rubber do? So I ended up using standard black rubber heater hose in the end, but for some reason I haven't yet received a rebate in cost, so it still cost me around £78 for the bits in total including VAT.

I still think Toyota metal pipes would have been considerably more, given the age of these vehicles now. And then there would have been the fitting cost at £568.00 per hour for a 'highly skilled' toyota engineer.

This job was easy peasy, and the only bit I would mention is that the spring clips that you have on the existing pipes may require replacing, so have some spare jubilee clips ready.

I didn't even have to bleed the system, as it all worked fine after being re-connected. I think these cooling systems self-bleed anyway. The heater is working beautifully in any case.

Don't be afraid to have a go, but remember to note which pipe is which at the front under the bonnet, and at the back into the heater, so the water still goes in the same direction.

I will take some photos of this next weekend and post here for those considering doing this repair.

Thanks for all the feedback from everyone. Another successful TLOC repair. This site has saved me soooo much trial and error...

Aaron.

andy · Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 18:11 Post subject:

When I had my 3rd gen Surf I enquired about the cost of the pipes, and I'm sure new pipes were around £75.
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Mr.B · ** Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Posts: 122 Location: south coast

MikeJak · ** Joined: 28 Mar 2022 Posts: 118 Location: Herts

I know I’m resurrecting an ancient topic but wanted to say thanks.
Done the rear heater hose swap today with some rad rubber hoses. Knowing what stock I needed was really really helpful.
The metal original pipes looked decent apart from one spot but as soon as I started working on them they started leaking in a few spots.
Swapped with 10 and 8mm pipe, a coupler and a few hose clamps.
The system didn’t seem to hold much coolant in that section, maybe 1/2 a litre?
I filled the pipes from the engine bay before connecting them just to ease the bleeding but probably didn’t need to.
Some rubber lined P clips came in handy to fix the tubing nicely tucked away.

About 45mm-1hr