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3.0 d4d random loss of power.


 
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Sbk1972
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Joined: 07 Dec 2023
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Location: Worthing

PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2023 22:41    Post subject: 3.0 d4d random loss of power. Reply with quote

Hi all.
I have a 2008 landcruiser 3.0 d4d.  Lc4.   120k miles.   It keeps suffering from rabdow loss of power and stalls when idling in traffic.  Doesn't happen all the time but 3 or 4 times a, week.  When you accelerate there's no power then suddenly a surge.

I'm thinking *beep* fuel so drained any water from the fuel filter.  This was replaced 1k miles ago.

I'm planning to check that my air cooler isn't blocked and plan to look at my egr valve, see how coked up my inlet is.   Would a choked up egr or inlet cause this issue?

I checked the engine codes but there isn't any.

So looking for suggestions

Thanks all

Simon
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
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Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2023 10:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem you have  sounds very much like its your SCV (suction control valve ) when they wear they start giving the problems that you have . Toyota updated them to the new long versions . you can get them as genuine toyota parts from Rough trax for around 290 pounds or at toyota dealers for 600 pounds or denso ones (which is what the genuine toyota one are ) for around 100 pounds from e bay . They take around 3/4 of a hour to remove the old one and fit the new one the first time if you have never fitted one before as its fiderly  or 20 minutes if you have done them before . There is video's on fourby4diesel youtube showing how to fit them he does it in 15 mins with one hand while holding the camera . cleanliness is the upmost  importance so as not to get any dirt into the injection pump as the old short scv is being removed from the injection pump and the new one being installed I used a new unused paint brush to brush around the area of the scv on the pump because I saved time in getting my air compressor out and using a a blow gun  .   .
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Juddian
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2023 10:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tony (Hi Tony) is usually on the money.

I recently cleaned out my EGR valve, but that was due to excess emissions at MOT time, a good clean up brought them back down, whilst the engine is running sweeter for doing so with more torque available faster the fairly blocked EGR wasn't causing any of the running issues you mention, but its well worth doing anyway, i didn't have the inlet manifold off for cleaning because that involves removing the injector pipes (which are supposed to be single use only) but if and when i renew the injectors that job will also be on the cards.
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Sbk1972
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Joined: 07 Dec 2023
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Location: Worthing

PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2023 16:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tony.

I had a go at cleaning the egr today.  Striped it down and cleaned up the egr as much as I could.  I didn't remove the inlet as I don't have any new gaskets.

One thing I noticed was that one of the vavcum lines around the egr has some infliter circular filter. Has asin written on it.  Anyway i thought it may be some one way valve but noticed I could blow through it anx suck through it?  Does this mean it needs replacing? It's a grey circler filter like thing that clips onto the side of the egr.

So where is the scv?  I will search now and find out more

Simon
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TONYCY11
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2023 18:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

The grey thing with the black top is a map filter that is inline of pressure measurement feed to the map sensor reading the turbo boost pressure , inside of it is a felt disk that filters the  oil crank case vent /egr gas mix coming through the intercooler and egr valve . if it cracks ( visible by dirty oil leaking/dripping from it )  due to age or due to being blocked with carbon dirt/oil mix the map sensor get a wrong reading and that too can give you the same problems that you are having , at those miles I would change the map filter anyway remembering that the black side goes on top so it  goes to the map sensor that on your 08 120 is at the front passenger side of the intercooler . to locate the SCV follow the fuel pipe from the fuel filter that goes to the injection pump at the side of engine directly below the fuel line is the SCV it has a electric connector on the end of it . if you go on fourby4diesel youtube site type in SCV on the search engine and all his vids on the SCV will come up .
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TONYCY11
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2023 18:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for gaskets on the egr and elbow to the inlet manifold they are thin metal plates with a black coating on them and easily  removable intact and in my opinion can be reused a few times at least unless you are so rough with them to the point of damaging them . they are just like the gasket on the SCV that faces on the injection pump side that is meant to stay in place stuck to the injection pump when you remove the old SCV and you just fit the new long SCV with its adapter plate to the injection pump . my gasket fell off when I removed the old SCV and would not stay in place on its own so I stuck it the the adapter plate pump side with a coating of clear silicone grease which was good as it kept the Oring
on the adapter plate in place while fitting the new long SCV .
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Sbk1972
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2023 16:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys.

Thought I would give you all an update.

So I cleaned the egr as best as I could.  I cleaned the maf woth circuit cleaner and the truck doesn't stall now.  However at times when I accelerate, put my foot down there seems to be a delay, no power.  Like off roundabouts or junctions, a few seconds of nothing then something.

So what could this be?  Injectors not pumping enough fuel at this low rev?  Maff wrong?  Are there any tests i can do to try and pinpoint the area?

I also have some  questions about parts etc. The truck has done 120k.  I've been watching the ozzy YouTube channel about this engines. Watching his videos around injectors and diagnostic

With a good wind how long do injectors last?  When they go do they go bang or smoke or loose power?  I've noted down some diagnostic tests from YouTube guy and when dry will go out with my code reader to test.  Where is a good place to buy a new set of injectors?  Do they come in kits that have all the washers and pipes?  What sort of price are these things.

Turbos.  How long do these last, assuming good maintenance?

Do these engines suffer from headgaskets?

Could the maf cause these issues?  I had similar on my Mercedes ml55.  I replaced it with a new bosh one.

I love my truck so am prepared for a new set of injectors and turbo as I plan to keep it for a few years so just trying to work out how long things last and if my symptoms are due to failing injectors or turbo.

Thanking you tremendous guys in advance.

Simon
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Sbk1972
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Joined: 07 Dec 2023
Posts: 7
Location: Worthing

PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2023 16:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys.

Thought I would give you all an update.

So I cleaned the egr as best as I could.  I cleaned the maf woth circuit cleaner and the truck doesn't stall now.  However at times when I accelerate, put my foot down there seems to be a delay, no power.  Like off roundabouts or junctions, a few seconds of nothing then something.

So what could this be?  Injectors not pumping enough fuel at this low rev?  Maff wrong?  Are there any tests i can do to try and pinpoint the area?

I also have some  questions about parts etc. The truck has done 120k.  I've been watching the ozzy YouTube channel about this engines. Watching his videos around injectors and diagnostic

With a good wind how long do injectors last?  When they go do they go bang or smoke or loose power?  I've noted down some diagnostic tests from YouTube guy and when dry will go out with my code reader to test.  Where is a good place to buy a new set of injectors?  Do they come in kits that have all the washers and pipes?  What sort of price are these things.

Turbos.  How long do these last, assuming good maintenance?

Do these engines suffer from headgaskets?

Could the maf cause these issues?  I had similar on my Mercedes ml55.  I replaced it with a new bosh one.

I love my truck so am prepared for a new set of injectors and turbo as I plan to keep it for a few years so just trying to work out how long things last and if my symptoms are due to failing injectors or turbo.

Thanking you tremendous guys in advance.

Simon
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Sbk1972
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Location: Worthing

PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2023 17:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for printing two replies above lol

So I'm looking at code reader.  Look at fuel rail pressure one setting states it should be 35k.  Looking at the actual shows a range from 32k to 35k.psi

I think I'm going to buy a new scv.   Carliterally stalled on me on idle at a junction
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karl2000
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2023 0:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Tony said, SCV.

SCV is one of the first things to do on these, even before they fail if you still have the short one.  One of the few common things that will actually stop these engines.
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Sbk1972
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2023 9:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordering one today.

How long do the turbos / injectors last on these engines?
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
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Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2023 12:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

How long the turbo lasts depends on the owner of the 120 , if the engine oil is always of good quality like fully synthetic and changed regally as with the coolant and the engine is left to idle for 2 minutes after a motorway run or heavy towing or driving up or down steep inclines where the the revs stay high due to been in lower gears so that the turbo  is cooled down with oil and coolant circulation   and if the engine ecu has not been remapped or chipped to make the turbo work harder or a big bore exhaust is fitted that will also make the turbo spin a lot faster and work harder will shorten its life ,    the turbo can last a million miles no problem if looked after . As for the injectors they wont go bang when they are spent and worn out as they just end up over fueling but the engine will go bang instead due to a piston cracking due to overfueling creating too much heat , or the engine will go bang due to the injector seats leaking creating blowby and clogging up the oil pickup in the sump so starving the engine of oil . Is good practice to ALLWAYS check the oil pick up after every oil change by looking up the oil drain hole with a torch or take a pick with your phone when the engine oil has stopped draining as you can see the centre of the oil pickup about a inch above the drain hole in the sump a very easy thing to do . But at 120k and  miles I would change the injectors mainly for the injector seats as they slowly erode away then allow blowby and burnout the O ring on the injector allowing hot combustion into the oil that like I said blocks up the oil pickup and killing the engine . The cost of a injector kit depends on where you get them I do not know of anyone in the UK that sells a complete injector kit . I got a full injector  kit (that I plan on doing the injector job in early to mid 2025 as my 120 has only 91k miles and I only do around 2-3k miles a year and I am doing it as maintenance not because they are worn as the calculated load reading on my 120 auto at idle at full running temp is between 11% to 12% but I do not know how long life is left  or good the injector seats are until pull out the injectors ) buying the parts from different places for the full kit including the latest denso updated and DLC coated injectors from a Denso dealer called PF Jones ltd at 231 pounds each that are said to last  at least 50% longer than the ones that the 120s had fitted at the time , the complete kit cost me 1400 euros when converted from pounds sterling which includes latest  updated new NOT recon   injectors x4 ,pipes x4 , top injectors seals x4 , injector to pipe seals x4 , 12mm fuel return bolts to replace the 17mm ones x4 . fuel return washers x5 , hold down bolts and washes x4 , cam cover gasket , plastic  screw caps to block off the 4 injector pipes outlets on the common rail x4 , 15mm beachwood dowel to clean the injector ports .
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TONYCY11
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2023 12:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to mention it would be a good  idea to change the map filter  the small plastic grey thing with black top  with 2 vacume pipes   that goes in-between the egr/throttle body to the map sensor on the front side of the intercooler as at 120k miles will need changing .
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Sbk1972
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Joined: 07 Dec 2023
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Location: Worthing

PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2023 12:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Tony.

New Scv installed. I brought a genuine toyota one.  For those planning to do this job be prepared. On paper it's simple but access is a challenge.  I removed the nearside wheel and arch liner which gives a little more access but still a challenge.  I also had to buy longer hex sockets as it takes a 5mm hex socket. I used a little bit of grease to hold the seal in whilst positioning the new valve.

The kit used guide pins.  All good however the bottom guide pin is a pain to try and undo.  That took the longest time trying to unscrew this to then slip in one of the new bolts.

So all installed.  I did a code reader / live data and noticed that at normal temp that the fuel rail pressure is now 35/36k.  Before with the original small version Scv it was dropping to 31/32k.

So all together now.  I will buy one of those egr filters.  Next year I plan go buy 4x injectors.

Thanks all
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TONYCY11
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2023 13:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done in fitting the long SCV its not hard to fit  its just fiddly , most 120 regular posters on here have already done this job not because the short one  was causing problems but as a update to the rubbish small one that will in time give  the problems you had . As for fitting I stood on a create (like on most engine jobs on the 120) and  removed the old and fitted the new one rather than through the wheel arch .
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