The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

robbness · Newbie Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 5 Location: manchester

hi guys,can anyone give me any help as to what to look for in a lc
i have owned a shogun before and any help would be appreciated my budget is approx 19000 Smile

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NightStalker · Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 20:58 Post subject:

Hi there and welcome to the club...

Depends what flavour of LC you are after... ON the LC 120 (or also known as prado) I'd check and see what engine in in it as thecd and kd range tend to suffer from the engine ceasure around the 60k miles range...
Also would be worth taking a look underneath the LC to check for off road damage or excessive rust where the LC was used to launch boats n so on...

I'm sure the rest of the LC crew will jump on the wagon and let you know what else to look for....

I'm getting my LC4 05 reg next Sunday... cant wait..

Regards
Rob
Cool

robbness · Newbie Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 5 Location: manchester

quite fancy a lc4
i take it cd and kd are differant engine codes
cant wait to get mine enjoy yours

NightStalker · Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 22:29 Post subject:

Yep they are.
Have a read about the engine blow out/power failure.... that should fill you in, in regards to engine failure... as said mines had it and the engine was rebuilt, new short engine and a full topend rebuild with cambelt replacement...

Regards
Rob

robbness · Newbie Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 5 Location: manchester

thanks for info
i will get a full ~ac inspection done before purchase

garystockton · Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 14:23 Post subject:

I bought an LC5 - 2005 model, from Mr T, so it came with a 1 year Toyota warranty. Things fixed under warranty (and thus to look out for):

1. Centre diff did not lock - replaced all electrical gubbins - approx £1500
2. A/C did not work - replaced all pipes and magnetic clutch - approx £1000
3. Front brake calipers seized - replaced with new versions (both sides) - £250 each
4. Suspension bushes failed - replaced - cost unknown
5. Injectors noisy - tested and are OK. Use Mr T injector cleaner every now and then to be sure!
6. If you get one with the ICE pack, check the screens in the head rests under the covers - I did and found one broken. DVD player didn't work either, and was replaced. Cost about £750 total
7. Rear auto-height controllers went ballistic and left the car on 'high' which almost as uncomfortbale as when it's set to low - no damping at all. Adjusters adjusted Wink

and failed again - replaced (these are £200 each)

Check for chassis / diff rust, oil leaks, damage to skid plates as evidence of off-road / salt water work. The body has a special coating which seems to work well to prevent rust.

Check the air filter - they don't seem to be cleaned / replaced as often as they should. Ditto with the cabin air filter, behind the GLOVE BOX (see - I'm learning Laughing

)

Check the alloys - earlier cars had problems with corrosion causing bubbles on the finish - these were replaced by Mr T, so if you have aproblem you may be able to get them sorted (only if you buy from Toyota though).

Try to buy from toyota with your budget you should find lots available. You will find the one-year warranty and Club Toyota membership a boon.

I guess if you're concerned about engine longevity, the compression test etc. as well. Check coolant - red coolant must be used.

Other than that, any other problems I've had have been self-induced Laughing

If you want a tow car with all the toys, then an LC5 with self-levelling rear air suspension with DVD turn-by-turn voice nav built in. If you want something you can put after-market suspension e.g. Old Man Emu on easily, then an LC4. If you want to turn it into hard-core off-roader, then LC3, as slightly less electronics, and the spare is out from under the vehicle. Still and awesome variant though - not the poor-cousin at all.

LC4 had spar mount as an option - rear door or under-floor. LC5 - under-floor only.

Replacement steel bumpers / winch bars and swing away wheel carriers are difficult to find and very expensive.

Have fun looking - take your time - the right one is there. Just decide exactly what you want first.

Also - just my 2p worth - the auto beats the manual for comfort and effectiveness, and is meant to be slightly more economical, although at 11 litres / 100km I got with roof tent on top and all sorts of stuff inside, at motorway speed, I'm not complaining. Oh yes - recommendation is to always use teh very best diesel you can get - not supermarket diesel if possible (that from the Service Manager where mine goes ...)

Cheers
_________________
I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.
- Terry Pratchett

Crispin · Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 15:10 Post subject:

dang and here I thought it was a good car.... Laughing

I think it is a bit unfair to state though that the engines explode around 60k mark. A fairly broad statement? If it was a massive problem, there would be a recall? (or did I mjiss that too? Embarassed

)

Gary speaks from experience and has a pretty new list of parts there. At least it was all paid for by Mr-T.

I do agree with Gary about the auto. I test drove an auto but bought a manual. I dislike it. Dislike it to the point of constantly wanting to sell it for an auto. Driving in traffic is hard work, sore foot by the time I get home. Sore is a bit of an exaggeration but it know's it's been working. Neutral

hijack/
Gary, what was the injector treatment? I am not convinced mine is as quiet as it could / should be. wanted to compare at Lincomb but forgot. Sounds very truck like on occasion...
/hijack

All in all though, I do enjoy the vehicle and glad I bought it.
_________________
Cheers,
Crispin
Have Snorkel, Will Swim

garystockton · Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 15:25 Post subject:

I first put in soe stuff from Halfwits (I forget what it was now - pretty good, it seemed, and pretty expensive). Definiteley quitened down things a lot. Then I saw at my local Mr T when I was picking up the inner mudguard clips that they have their own brand injector cleaner, so will get some on Saturday.

It does sound pretty agricultural from time to time - but there's a lot about that on PradoPoint, and it all makes (some) sense to me - all to do with variable this and adjustable that until it warms up. Gotta say I have the same findings - in winter when it starts it does sound like a bag of spanners being rattled around. When it's warm it's fine. In summer, it was fine from the get-go. That was that one week in May, if anyone remembers ... Crying or Very sad

I found last winter that using the power-heat switch was really useful - got it warmed up much quicker, and the noise seemed to be a lot quieter sooner. Yours (the truck, that is) didn't seem to sound any different when on the lanes, though. And with the snorkel now, it doesn't matter - that thing is like a megaphone - but I like it!!

Good thing I don't have an owl like Thor did though Laughing

_________________
I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.
- Terry Pratchett

uk_vette · Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 15:29 Post subject:

Well I couldn't let this slip by without having a full list of bits fitted to my June 2005 LC3

10,000 miles = New front drivers rubber CV boot
216,xxx miles = New alternator

I will not mention the consumables like pads, wipers, tyres, bulbs

'vette

garystockton · Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 15:34 Post subject:

Yep - I reckon I got a Monday-car. I suspect 'vette's list of bust things to be what to expect if you maintain properly Laughing

Under all the Barbie-plastic, they are robust vehicles. Just got to see them used in harsh conditions to appreciate that - massive Aussie mines, and with UN and other Security Forces, where they get hammered and just keep going ...
_________________
I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.
- Terry Pratchett