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Noisy alternator?


 
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timbo
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Joined: 15 Apr 2008
Posts: 84
Location: Dorset

PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 16:04    Post subject: Noisy alternator? Reply with quote

Well after 110k of trouble free motoring I think my wife's LC3 (2003) has a noisy alternator, using the listening at the end of a plastic tube method, it seems to have a rough bearing. Looking at it it doesn't look that easy to remove, has anyone done this and could maybe pass on a few tips. I'm not quite sure either which of the pulleys tensions the belt, is it spring loaded? Grateful for any help.

Why is it when shit happens it always happens at the worst time of year, daughter now saying her peugeot sounding rough......do they ever sound otherwise???
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 16:04    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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uk_vette
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Joined: 29 Oct 2007
Posts: 1422
Location: Warrington, Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 17:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

My alternator on my 2005 LC3 packed up at 210,000 miles.
Your's seems to have gone early.
I got a factory replacement from Toyota, with the intent of fitting it myself.
Then I read and understood, that it is not a simple task, as the A.C. is in teh way.
So I give it to Toyota to fit.
They gave me a fixed price.
But then afterwards, wanted to charge me more, as they had to remove an A.C. pipe, and needed to recharge the system.

I stuck to the original price they quoted, they were not happy, but they should have known better.
i did, that's why I asked them to do it for me.

vette
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timbo
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Joined: 15 Apr 2008
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Location: Dorset

PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 17:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply, can you remember how much you paid?
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uk_vette
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Joined: 29 Oct 2007
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Location: Warrington, Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 17:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't really, it was 2009 that it was replaced.
The alternator might have been about £160.00
I was charged £50.00 deposit, for the return of my defunct alternator
So I had to shell out about £210.00, then get the £50.00 back.

Can't remember the fitting charges, sorry.

vette
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timbo
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Joined: 15 Apr 2008
Posts: 84
Location: Dorset

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 22:41    Post subject: update Reply with quote

Turns out they fit it from underneath by removing the osf wheel, no need to disconnect the A/C.
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14all_and_all41
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Joined: 23 Dec 2008
Posts: 189
Location: Aberdeen

PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 22:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, havent been on the forum for a while, but It's very easy to remove, the only other thing that is tampered with is taking the belt of, and you can either make a quick drawing of the pulley routing, or can leave it in situ while you replace the alternator.

I've a 2003 LC5

A quick guide:
1. Disconnect both batteries
2. Drop the front underneath guard (this is for easier visual, and to allow easier access to the tensioner) and removal of 1 bracket.
3. 14mm spanner on the tensioner lever anticlockwise release the belt tension, and remove from the alt pulley, you can leave the belt in situ around the other pulleys
4. remove the plastic cover over the bolt electrical connection on the side of the alt, if you cant see, you'll feel it, 2" ext bar, 10mm socket, and remove the nut, then the cable.
5. Reach round the back of the alt and disconnect the square electrical plug, squeeze the tabs it should pop out easy enough.
6. Remove the holding stabilising bracket from the alt to the engine, you do this from underneath.
7. Remove the hinge bolt through the alt and engine, the alt will now drop and be free to remove.
8. Careful lift the alt upwards through the gap between the hoses and battery, it will come out this way without to much fuss
9. Compare removed and new unit.
10. You could check the belt if you want to
11. Sandpaper the electrical connector that was bolted to the alt, check all clean
12. Check the square plug electrical connector terminals all clean
13. Repeat no.8 above backward to re-install, although you,will find it easier to plug in the square electrical connector first before hang the alt back in place.

30-40min job

Oil or grease the bolts holding up the front for future removal etc

Hope this helps
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askill21
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Joined: 10 Sep 2012
Posts: 7
Location: Inverness Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 13:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks [b]14all [/b]for good clear instructions have just completed swap without too much bother.
My only adjustment would be to remove os wheel which allows access directly to alt for ease of removing electrical connection, bolts and ultimately the only way I could get whole alt out and in easily.
Most helpful otherwise
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easyjet
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Joined: 15 Oct 2010
Posts: 27
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 21:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

askill21 wrote:
Thanks [b]14all [/b]for good clear instructions have just completed swap without too much bother.
My only adjustment would be to remove os wheel which allows access directly to alt for ease of removing electrical connection, bolts and ultimately the only way I could get whole alt out and in easily.
Most helpful otherwise


Hi
Thanks will need to read again
Cheers
easyjet
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Les63
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Joined: 09 Dec 2016
Posts: 48
Location: Coalville

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 23:13    Post subject: aternatorl Reply with quote

Got my alternator from Rough Trax about £170.Fitted it in similar fashion to above plus found it easier with car on ramps then jack up to remove o/s front wheel also used axle stand to be safe .There is a bush in the front part of the bracket which needed to push this forward a few mm for the new alternator to slot in,to do this I found a bolt and nut to fit between the bush and rear part of the bracket then unscrewed the nut against the bush ,the bush will move back when everything is tightened .
Good luck Les.
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 374
Location: Homeboy

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 15:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well well, this has been a turn up for the books, my beasty was slow turning over yesterday afternoon, and thismorning failed to turn over but did start via the jump pack.

Didn't notice before the ignition light is out, so i'm assuming the alternator has died, thanks to the above posts its now sitting in the kitchen and just finishing off charging up the batteries.

There's an automotive electrical workshops in the town, i shall pop in there in the morning with it and see if they can do anything with this unit or at least check it is the alt that's failed, if not going to try for a Toyota recon, new Denso unit on Roughtrax is now £282 by the way.
Not sure i want to risk a generic recon from the motor factors but may end up doing that.

Luckily i'm on holiday this week.

105k miles only  Crying or Very sad   and the first time in all my Toyotas that anything like this has ever failed, at most its been the odd bulb before.
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 374
Location: Homeboy

PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 17:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Popped round the sparky shop with the offending unit thismorning, what i hadn't noticed and he did straight away was a slight crack in the body casting of the old unit, so not worth fixing after all.

He had a Lucas recon unit for me within a couple of hours @£126.

Refitting is a bit of juggling act, trying to get the unit into place and get the main through bolt in is awkward and took me about 10 minutes, the unit is heavier than it looks and access isn't brilliant so you weaken after a few mins of struggling, i did as suggested above and went at it mainly from the side (front wheel removed) but you do need to get underneath to access the lower bracket bolts...these can be done from the side but you can't see them.
Connections are no real bother to remove or refit, i reconnected it once the unit was in place and drive belt back on, it makes life easier if you remove the rear flexible splash guard from the inner wing as well as the front one, with a torch you can see the back of the alternator through the rear gap, making it much easier to get the multi plug off prior to removal, refit of plug no issue at all.

Getting access to the tensioner is awkward due to the fan blades, i found the best way to move the tensioner to remove and refit the belt is from underneath, with a six sided socket on a typical half inch drive ratchet, you can't use anything longer than that as the bottom hose and aircon pipes are getting in the way.

One other tip, when lining the unit up to get that long through bolt through you can't see which way the unit needs to move to line the bolt up, i had a telescopic flexible mirror on a stick with its own led bulbs, it doesn't get used very often but made the world of difference today because i could see into the bolt hole and see which way i needed to move the alt to line it all up.

All good now, i have ignition light again and it putting a healthy charge out, i haven't measured it simply used the gauge on my jump pack connected to the batteries,  which went nearly off the scale with the engine running now, so strong charge.

Also remember if you are doing this yourself, your batteries are wired in parallel, so make sure they are both fully charged before connecting everything back up, i'm sure they would equalise eventually but it won't do either of them any good if you charged one up and not the other once the alternator is charging again.
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