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2003 3.0 d4d power loss/limp mode?

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mickylc3
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Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 23:18    Post subject: 2003 3.0 d4d power loss/limp mode? Reply with quote

Got a bit of an issue with my landcruiser,happened first in september last year after a long journey,filled up full tank of diesel and as soon as joined the motorway it started to lose power at around 70-75mph as if there was a blockage in the fuel supply.

when i got home replaced the fuel filter(which was done a month before) and it seemed to have sorted it.

Last week on our way to italy from the uk after around 600-700 miles same problem re-occured.

this time i stopped on the motorway and opened the bleeding plug on the bottom of the fuel filter and again it went well for a while.

driving through italian mountains seemed to have got worse driving up hill and i had to put the pedal all the way down and then it would only be struggling up hill.

again bled the filter and this time with engine running,which then obviously conked out,some bits of dirt coming out of the filter and again it seems ok-ish.

anyone had this problem?
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budgey
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Joined: 02 Jan 2012
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Location: Bulgaria

PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 10:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Mickey.
Was the tank run down very low when you did that initial fill-up in September? Could it have sucked up some crud out of the bottom of the tank? I guess you could even entertain the possibility of contaminated fuel, and the fact that some crud came out when you bled it would indicate some kind of contamination.
Have you had any lights illuminate on the dash - the check engine light, for instance? At least then you would be able to check the ECM error code to get more of an idea of the problem.
I'm having fuel system related problems myself, and one thing is for sure, when I get the the bottom of them, I will be fitting a secondary pre-OEM fuel filter as an extra precaution. Perhaps you should change that filter now, and entertain the possibility of adding some kind of fuel system/injector cleaner when you next fill up (although, some frown on those products, so best to research it a little).
One last thing, I believe there is another filter between the two tanks on some models, so it may be worth investigating that.
Sorry I can't be of more help. You probably know all this, or have thought of it all already. Good luck with resolving your problem, and keep us updated here.
Terry...
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mickylc3
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Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi I bought the car in august last year with 58k on the clock,but it was sat at the garage for ages obviously with hardly any fuel in it.I've done a full service on it,including cambelt change and was driving it for a month but never filled up to the brim.

Strange thing is in september we went all the way to czech republic(1000 miles) and all the way back with no problems at all until we got to dover and filled up again,then it started to play up.

No lights whatsoever and no codes( I own a garage and i'm a mechanic so i plugged it in to see if any codes appear)
I did get an engine light here in italy when it was really struggling up hill and would hardly accelerate but won't be able to check it until i get back home!

I have been adding Forte diesel additive which is trade only product and works great with any car and also checked my injectors as there seems to be a lot of problems with injectors on these but all seems fine.

All I can put it down to is when i fill up to the brim any *beep* in the tank gets picked up and clogged on the way to the fuel pump,also some people mentioned these SCV valves on the injector pump.
Unfortunately I won't know until i get back to UK and investigate further.

It's just a bit dissapointing that I've had many cars and we travel at least 3 times a year abroad in them and none have given me any hassle apart from this one,and it's apparently meant to be most reliable car around.
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budgey
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Joined: 02 Jan 2012
Posts: 100
Location: Bulgaria

PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seeing as you can't plug in right now, you could check the blink codes instead by using a small piece of wire to short out pins 4 and 13 on the DLC3 connector (where you connect your code reader). The check engine light will blink out a code that you will be able to cross check.

1) Ensure the ignition is off
2) Turn the ignition on, but don't start.
3) Put the wire across the connector pins. (pin 4 and pin 13)
4) Read codes displayed via the engine check light.
5) Disconnect the wire when finished retrieving codes and turn the ignition off.

The D4D error codes are below, and the blink codes are in brackets (for instance, I'm getting 7x flashes…. 1.5 second pause…8x flashes, which is code 78)

P0045 (34) - Boost control solenoid circuit malfunction

P0087 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor or rail pressure too low.

P0088 (49) - Fuel rail pressure too high.

P0093 (78) - Fuel system leak (Large leak)

P0095 (23) - Intake air temperature sensor circuit (open/short/failure)

P0097 (23) - Intake air temp circuit low input.

P0098 (23) - Intake temperature sensor circuit high input.

P0100 (31) - Mass air flow meter or circuit (open/short/failure)

P0102 (31) - Air flow meter circuit low input.

P0103 (31) - Air flow meter circuit high input.

P0105 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit (short/open/failure)

P0107 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit low input.

P0108 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit high input.

P0110 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit (open/short/failure)

P0112 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit low input

P0113 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit high input.

P0115 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit (open/short/failure).

P0117 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit low input.

P0118 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit high input.

P0168 (39) - Fuel temperature too high.

P0180 (39) - Fuel temp sensor “A” (open/short/failure)

P0182 (39) - Fuel temp sensor “A” low input.

P0183 (39) - Fuel temp sensor “A” high input.

P0190 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit (open/short/failure)

P0191 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit performance/range

P0192 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit input low.

P0193 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high input.

P0200 (97) - Injector circuit (open/short/failure)

P0234 (34) - Turbo over boost condition.

P0299 (34) - Turbo under boost condition.

P0335 (12,13) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit “A” (open/short/failure).

P0339 (13) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit “A” intermittent fault.

P0340 (12) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit “A” no signal after cranking.

P0400 (71) - EGR position sensor (valve out of position)

P0405 (96) - EGR position sensor low input.

P0406 (96) - EGR position sensor high input.

P0488 (15) - EGR throttle position sensor/motor/circuit fault.

P0500 (42) - Vehicle speed sensor “A” (open/short/failure)

P0504 (51) - Brake switch.

P0607 (89) - Control module fault (ECM internal fault)

P0627 (78) - Fuel pump control circuit (open/short/failure)

P1229 (78) - Fuel pump fail.

P1251 (34) - Turbocharger stepper motor circuit (intermittent fault)

P1271 - Fuel regulator circuit malfunction. (open/short/failure)

P1272 - Fuel pressure regulator malfunction (simultaneously with P1271)

P1601 (89) - Injector correction circuit (E-prom)

P1611 (17) - ECM run pulse.

P2008 (58) - Intake manifold runner control circuit (open/short/failure)

P2120 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” (open/short/fail)

P2121 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” (range/performance)

P2122 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” low input.

P2123 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” input high.

P2125 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “E” (open/short/fail)

P2127 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “E” low input.

P2128 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “E” high input.

P2138 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor “D” and “E” voltage correlation.

P2226 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit.

P2228 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit low input.

P2229 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit high input.

U0001 (102) - ECM open or short.

B2799 (99) - Engine immobilizer malfunction.

Hope this helps you diagnose the problem!

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mickylc3
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Joined: 27 Mar 2013
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Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 16:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks very much i will check these as soon as i find a bit of wire!

best regards
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mickylc3
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Joined: 27 Mar 2013
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Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 10:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to update,before my journey back from italy I have cleaned the fuel filter out as much as I could without many tools and it drove fine all the way to belgium(around 600 miles) and then boom same problem of loss of power which got so bad by the time we got to dover that we had to pull up and try to clean the filter out again.managed to limp home back to midlands and next day went to my garage and removed both green and red valve on the back of the injection pump,cleaned them out with an airline and now the engine sounds a lot quieter and drives great.I might possibly have to replace these if they cause issues again but so far its back to being a great car it ones was
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budgey
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Joined: 02 Jan 2012
Posts: 100
Location: Bulgaria

PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 9:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great to hear that you seem to have resolved your problem, and it's interesting that cleaning the SCVs has made the engine quieter too!
Did you get the chance to check the diagnostic trouble codes with your tester back in the garage? I'd be interested to know what code(s) the problem threw up.
Good job, anyway. I hope your next trip away goes a lot smoother!  Very Happy
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Scotspea
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Joined: 06 Apr 2011
Posts: 35
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:40    Post subject: Exactly the same problem Reply with quote

I  am suffering the same problem. Filled up at Sainsburys travelled 2 miles and going up a hill lost power. Wondered if there was water in fuel in spite of no warnings so bled the filter. Cured the problem until the next fill up and it lost power again! Did this twice more and then changed the filter. Dirty but not blocked. All was going great until I filled up again and problem recurred. I intend to clean the red and green valves and drain the tank (if possible) but I am on holiday and will have to limp along till I get home. Could it be  some sort of fluid which has got in with fuel and only gets stirred up when filling the tank. Any reports of bad fuel anywhere?
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mickylc3
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Joined: 27 Mar 2013
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Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it will be faulty red and green valve,as they might start playing up once hot.I havent replaced mine yet as we're only doing short journeys and it hadn't played up since,but i'm sure i'll have to replace them before next long trip.
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Scotspea
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Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 10:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I tried keeping the tank full and fuelling slowly just topping up 3 or 4 gallons at a time and it has behaved perfectly. Makes me suspect something is being stirred up when filling the tank. Anyone know if the tank has a drain and whether the pick up can be removed.
Thanks
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Scotspea
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Joined: 06 Apr 2011
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Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 8:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Posted this fix on another Query but just to confirm my problem WAS the red and green valves on the FI Pump. They come as a kit!
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Vagabond
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Joined: 03 Dec 2004
Posts: 455
Location: Watford, HERTS

PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 11:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure there was a post by another 120 owner (Vette?) about the fuel pickup getting clogged up and removing and cleaning it out......
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'97 VZJ95 - Colorado 3.4V6 with LPG, 40mm Ironman SL, full SS exhaust, 265/75R16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s on 80 alloys and 195k+
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Scotspea
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Joined: 06 Apr 2011
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Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 17:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is nothing to do with the pick up or filter. I tried all these things with NO success. The French service manager has had this problem a dozen times and told me straight away it was the valves.
Thanks for pointing out the other post but I hope I can stop anyone else wasting the hours and money I spent with new filters etc.
There is another post about stalling which I answered and turned to be the same problem.

Thanks Again
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Hems62
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Joined: 18 May 2014
Posts: 8
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 20:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been reading all the posts about D4D engines dropping into limp mode with no warning lights etc. I have had exact same problems with my 2001 Colorado, I have also been through all the filter and fuel checks, but the problem keeps coming back. It seems highly likely that I need to change the suction control valves, my question is: Do these valves have to coded to the ECU after fitting or do you just plug them in and start up???
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Scotspea
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Joined: 06 Apr 2011
Posts: 35
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 13:32    Post subject: Red and Green Valves Reply with quote

No need to do anything on a 120 but take off the connectors, valves simply held in with two allen screws each. They come as a kit.
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