NFU Mutual - click to link

The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club
Landcruiser Club - Dedicated to Toyota Landcruiser, Amazon, Colorado and Prado Owners
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   Watched TopicsWatched Topics   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your personal messagesLog in to check your personal messages   Log inLog in 
TLOCUK HomeTLOCUK Home   TLOCUK ForumsTLOCUK Forums  TLOCUK FaceBook GroupTLOCUK FaceBook Group
Click here to link to the South African LandCruiser Owners Club websiteLCCSA  Click here to link to the Australian LandCruiser Owners OnLine website - possibly the longest established Land Cruiser club on the net!LCOOL  Click here to link to the IH8MUD website - run by extremely enthusiastic Land Cruiser owners, with a fantastic source of DIY information and useful forum!IH8MUD  Yellow Diamond ClubsYellow Diamond Clubs

Pulling to left, no obvious cause, any ideas? LJ79

Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club Forum Index -> 70 Series / Prado / Troopie / Bundera Technical Forum
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
LJ79
*


Joined: 14 Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Malta

PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 22:07    Post subject: Pulling to left, no obvious cause, any ideas? LJ79 Reply with quote

Car pulls slightly to the left. Braking or not makes no difference. It just wants to sit with the wheel slightly turned to the left, then it's happy.

Replaced 4 tyres in November. Can't say I noticed anything untoward then.

Recently swapped tyres across just to eliminate any bad tyre. No difference.

Took it to a geo place. Told me geo is spot on, may be tyres. He even told me that since the only adjustment is toe, even if it were out, I would not get a consistent tug to the left.

I also engaged both freewheel hubs, on the off chance that perhaps the LHS one was not disengaging, but no difference, so eliminated too.

I don't really get this. Hate it when I can't get to the bottom of things, when all seems fine, but evidently is not.

Frustrated. Tomorrow may try replacing front tyres, have an extra pair. Any ideas?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Google
Sponsor





PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 22:07    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


Back to top
Tipper
*


Joined: 12 Mar 2015
Posts: 48
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 22:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you jacked up both front wheels to see if one brake calyper is binding?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
LJ79
*


Joined: 14 Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Malta

PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 8:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi yes and actually replaced brake pads (not for reasons related to issue) a couple of weeks back, no difference.... ugh
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Roger Fairclough
*******


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 1619
Location: Redditch Worcestershire

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 20:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

re you driving on roads with serious camber surface? If this is possible, find a suitable road and drive on right to see if it makes any difference.

Roger
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
LJ79
*


Joined: 14 Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Malta

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 9:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not camber related, does it everywhere. Yesterday replaced both front tyres - no change. Also measured wheelbase side to side - spot on. Put it on shaker plates (? - the MOT suspension test devices) and apart from a very minimal (to the point of insignificance, way off a fail) play in a kingpin bearing, nothing. Not to mention that I had a lot more play in them prior to replacement some years back and it never pulled anyway.

I have not tested one thing, lifting the front and starting the engine, wonder whether it is possible for the steering box to be "pushing" to one side? But I doubt it, as it basically just finds its position and sits there, furthermore I also centred the box's movement (there was uneven lock) i.e. effectively changing the box's "straight ahead" and no change at all.

Very frustrating.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Roger Fairclough
*******


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 1619
Location: Redditch Worcestershire

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 18:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you modified it in any way?

Roger
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
LJ79
*


Joined: 14 Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Malta

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 20:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Roger, no, all "stock", including ride height, etc.

One Q - the steering damper - I take it that is just a damper, no possibility of it pushing or pulling in any way?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Roger Fairclough
*******


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 1619
Location: Redditch Worcestershire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a damper, nothing more.

Have you checked the rear brakes? Have you checked the front wheel bearings?

Without actually driving the motor, we are now scratching for ideas.

"When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth". Now who said that?

Roger
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
outdoordan
**


Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Posts: 68
Location: France

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 20:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

is there any sign that one or other of the axle knuckle/diff oil seals have failed? zap a laser thermometer onto the knuckles/axle ends/hubs to see if the left side is getting hotter than the right?

dunno
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
LJ79
*


Joined: 14 Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Malta

PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 15:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, so the saga is ongoing, but a Lidl protractor, it seems, is more useful than a bells and whistles geo place.

Long story short, using the protractor I discovered that either one front wheel is splayed in, or the other is splayed out (camber).

I need to know which it is, saves taking apart both sides.

Does anyone have the geo settings (full, not just toe) for the 70 series?

Or, failing that, whether there is supposed to be any camber at all at the front, i.e. any setting other than 90 degrees to road surface?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
YATYAS44
Newbie


Joined: 18 Jan 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Virginia, USA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 17:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wheel bearings. My LJ78 was doing the same thing...after alignment, brake pad replacement and associated debacle with hubs, etc, I replaced wheel bearings and voila!

Jon
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
outdoordan
**


Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Posts: 68
Location: France

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 14:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

LJ79 wrote:
Right, so the saga is ongoing, but a Lidl protractor, it seems, is more useful than a bells and whistles geo place.

Long story short, using the protractor I discovered that either one front wheel is splayed in, or the other is splayed out (camber).

I need to know which it is, saves taking apart both sides.

Does anyone have the geo settings (full, not just toe) for the 70 series?

Or, failing that, whether there is supposed to be any camber at all at the front, i.e. any setting other than 90 degrees to road surface?


I rebuilt both knuckles on my 73 last year. Camber is governed by use of shims between knuckle bearing pin where they're attached to top and bottom of ball joint at end of axle... beneath the plates top and bottom with 4 bolts. Only way i can think that camber would change is:
bolts come loose
Pins are worn
Or that the wrong shims were fitted ... but this woulnt explain camber changing over time

I wouldnt disagree with last post but imho the bearing would have to be seriously knackered and making a racket before it started to effect handling.

Any progress recently?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Roger Fairclough
*******


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 1619
Location: Redditch Worcestershire

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 13:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shims on the steering knuckle are there to adjust the pre-load on the knuckle bearings. It is normal practice to equalise the shim thickness top and bottom to maintain a central position of the knuckle onto the axle so that the grease seal can be correctly fitted.

Roger
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
outdoordan
**


Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Posts: 68
Location: France

PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 13:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roger Fairclough wrote:
The shims on the steering knuckle are there to adjust the pre-load on the knuckle bearings. It is normal practice to equalise the shim thickness top and bottom to maintain a central position of the knuckle onto the axle so that the grease seal can be correctly fitted.

Roger


Ah... got that wrong then. Is there any adjustability in the camber then?

cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Roger Fairclough
*******


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 1619
Location: Redditch Worcestershire

PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 17:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry no, it's all part of the welded up structure of the axle casing.

Roger
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club Forum Index -> 70 Series / Prado / Troopie / Bundera Technical Forum All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


All contents © Hobson's Choice IT Solutions Ltd 1997 on
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group