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Battery/Charge Voltages


 
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RADIOTWO
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Joined: 18 Nov 2005
Posts: 812
Location: GLOSSOP

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 22:32    Post subject: Battery/Charge Voltages Reply with quote

Hi All

As per subject title, I am after the technical figures for the output for the Alternator on a 4.2Ltr Diesel, 2004

It all started when I noticed Volt Meter was very sluggish, ie Started up the car, and it took about 3/5 mins to show up to nearly 14 Volts, I then checked two Batterys and noticed the "check hole" and where it should show blue(for ok) it showed white(Needs recharging).

On checking the voltage (on each Battery) off charge it was 12.25 Volts, I started her up and after a while, the voltage came up to 13.2 Volts( on a digital Voltmeter) but no more, and with every thing switched on with about 1700Rpm only got 12.25 Volts.

I went for a 1hr run and when I got back I popped the bonnet and checked the voltage with the engine off and got 12.35Volts.

So has any one got the tech figures?

Radiotwo
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 22:32    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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imprator
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Joined: 10 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have the figures you seek, but I would suspect the batteries before the charging system.

If the voltage rises to 13.2 volts under charge but drops to 12.35 volts immediately after a run (and without load) that sounds like dying batteries. If your battery warning light comes on when the ignition is switched on and goes fully out at idle when the engine is started that suggests that your charging system is probably OK..

You can buy a battery check meter for very little money, or most chargers have a built-in battery health indicator. I would suggest this as your next step.

Of course, if the batteries are nearly new and have never been run flat (which permanently damages them and shortens their life) then my comments may not be appropriate.
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RADIOTWO
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 22:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

imprator wrote:
I don't have the figures you seek, but I would suspect the batteries before the charging system.

If the voltage rises to 13.2 volts under charge but drops to 12.35 volts immediately after a run (and without load) that sounds like dying batteries. If your battery warning light comes on when the ignition is switched on and goes fully out at idle when the engine is started that suggests that your charging system is probably OK..

You can buy a battery check meter for very little money, or most chargers have a built-in battery health indicator. I would suggest this as your next step.

Of course, if the batteries are nearly new and have never been run flat (which permanently damages them and shortens their life) then my comments may not be appropriate.



Hi imprator
Thanks for the response, but I would have thought it should have been a higher voltage from the Alternator, as I said it was 13.2, I think it should be nearer 14.5 Volts,I have known some to put out 14.8, but I do think that's a bit high(hence wanting charge rates for the Amazon)

Re the battery warning light, that is not the most reliable form of a test, but I get your point.

and the battery's are original and are just over two years old, and have never been run flat, in fact it has never failed to start, but the voltmeter in the dash only reads after a few min's after starting, and seems to be getting worse.

I have spoke to the dealer(as still under warranty)and says they will check, but not had chance to get in

Radiotwo
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DaveN
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 23:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery voltage should be about 14 volts when being charged. The little light on the dash only comes on at something like 12.5 volts so gives little info really.

I suspect the alternator output, but they really need to be tested under load.

I bought a new battery for my Honda a couple of years ago and the little sightglass has been clear since then, meaning it needs replacing. So I'm waiting till it's nearly 3 years old (3 yr warranty) then I'll take it back and get a new one under warranty.
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Grimbo
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Joined: 25 Jul 2005
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Location: Ashdown Forest

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 23:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave, hope honda's warrenty policy on batts is better than toyota, they have a 3 year warrenty, BUT!!! only allow you a percentage of the replacement value in the third year, its not a take it in and they give you a nice new battery job. Also me testing it with a snapon battery tester was not good enough for them, they have to have the batts for 24-48 hrs to charge them and test them on toyotas battery tester. Result, no cruiser for 48 hrs, and 10 - 15 quid off the price of my new battery !, no wonder Toyota are the richest motor manufacturer in the world.  Rolling Eyes
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imprator
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 16:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

RADIOTWO wrote:
imprator wrote:
Icomments may not be appropriate.
Thanks for the response, but I would have thought it should have been a higher voltage from the Alternator, as I said it was 13.2, I think it should be nearer 14.5 Volts
Radiotwo


Ahhh... Sorry, I had misunderstood your original comment to mean that the battery voltage read 13.2 volts after you had stopped the engine, then it quickly dropped away. The phrasing in my response didn't help matters by not making this clear. My fault.

A reading of 13.2 volts whilst the engine is running is certainly low. As you say, the charging system is the most likely suspect.

It MIGHT be something as simple as the cable contacts at the alternator being insufficiently tight then working loose and/or allowing contaminants between the contact points. I have known this to produce exactly these symptoms. However, if the alternator is difficult to reach on the diesel engine (I don't know as I have the petrol version) and your vehicle is under warranty this might not be something that you would want to bother checking yourself. Well, I wouldn't anyway!
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