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The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club Landcruiser Club - Dedicated to Toyota Landcruiser, Amazon, Colorado and Prado Owners
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timbo **
Joined: 15 Apr 2008 Posts: 84 Location: Dorset
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 16:43 Post subject: auto box oil and filter |
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Our LC3 03my is at 160k should I be thinking of changing the oil and filter? anyone done this and have any recommendations re DIY _________________ Do more with less. |
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 16:43 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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eamonn051 *
Joined: 08 May 2016 Posts: 11 Location: Waterford Ireland
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 18:03 Post subject: auto box oil etc |
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i enquired about this a long time ago both here and with Toyota. Seemingly its a sealed for life unit that is unless something goes wrong with it.I have 173000 and its never been opened or changed. I stand ready to be corrected on this one though. |
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timbo **
Joined: 15 Apr 2008 Posts: 84 Location: Dorset
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 19:46 Post subject: |
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Interesting, I wonder what qualifies as 'for life'! I notice that when cold and in the cold weather if left in drive when at a stop it drags a little, no problem otherwise, and isn't present in warm weather or when hot, was just thinking oil might have got a little thicker, if that's possible. _________________ Do more with less. |
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johnthegrinch *
Joined: 25 Jan 2016 Posts: 21 Location: london
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 20:08 Post subject: |
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I have a 2003 LC5 4.0l petrol auto. Just coming up to 100k miles and I notice the Haynes manual includes in the 100k service schedule "change auto transmission fluid". I was planning to change mine once the weather gets better but perhaps i don't need to bother? |
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Juddian ****
Joined: 31 Jan 2015 Posts: 374 Location: Homeboy
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 20:17 Post subject: |
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I've changed the oil in both types, the 4 speed is a doddle the 5 speed a bit more involved.
In both cases the oil wasn't showing signs of burning but wasn't as fresh as i liked, and i decided against removing the pan and changing the filter, in both cases the oil level is checked in P with the engine running, with the 5 speed the oil wants to be a certain temperature, there is a method of shorting pins on the diagnostics socket but instead i simply checked the sump temp with a laser temperature gauge.
The dipstick on those vehicles as i recall has cold and hot markings.
Some people remove an oil pipe from the feed or return to the radiator cooler, and pump the system clear say 5 litres at a time whilst keeping the system topped up, nothing wrong with that if you want to do so, arguably a better renewal, but having once tried this with a power steering box the speed the oil pumps out is faster than you might imagine, and i prefer not to disturb connections or gaskets that have been in place for years unless absolutely necessary, so not for me but if you prefer that method by all means do.
The 4 speed will have a gearbox dipstick, it's no more difficult to drop a sumpful than to change the engine oil, top it up through the dipstick tube, run it for 20 minutes (or a week) through all the gears, then rinse and repeat, i did this three times, roughly 5 litres comes out at a time, easy then to drop and swap a sumpful annually when you change the engine oil, keeping a percentage of fresh oil constantly renewing.
This was on a Collie but no real difference from the early 120.
It might be Dexron 3 but check for yourself as i'm not sure what the 120 4 speed needs.
The 5 speed is a bit more involved, firstly there's no dipstick, there is a second plug in the bottom of the sump, the filler plug is halfway up the side of the box on the offside, it's an awkward place to get to so you will need some sort of oil pump to get the new oil up there, the filler plug can take some spotting but it is there be assured.
Again i performed this operation 3 times, and the fresh oil was a much nicer pink than what came out.
This page gives you most of the info you will need for the 5 speed, hope no one is upset about the link, apologies if this is the case.
http://www.lcool.org/technical/100_series/auto_fluid/auto.htm
The 5 speed takes WS (world standard) full synthetic oil, many people suggest Toyota oil only and nothing wrong with that but mine has good quality Dexron 6 (listed as covering WS spec) running through its veins, and the box is silky smooth.
The 5 speed sump holds about 4 litres at a time.
Both times the vehicles had covered about 100k.
I believe the 4 speed does have a recommended change time, at least it did for the Collie.
The 5 speed does not have an official change time, and the oil condition is supposed to be checked i understand at major services at the dealer.
As i DIY such jobs the costs are so low as to make it a no brainer for me, ie £60 for a 20 litre drum of Dexron 6 versus what £3000 plus fitting plus vat for a new box?
No gearbox is sealed for life, no transmission of any sort in any vehicle i've driven over the last 45 year is, thats the sort of tripe you see on stickers under modern British built 4x4's gearboxes (i carried thousands of the things in my previous work and those sealed for life do not drain stickers were found on most of the export models), but you look at used ones for sale and note the number of them with new/recon boxes at mileages just over 100k, sort of miles when our cruisers are just getting run in, X5's another sealed for life mythical beast, those in the know give that sort of non service regime a healthy ignoring, and i for one shall continue to do so till i pop me clogs.
Note such vehicles do not carry 5 year warranties
I wish Toyota hadn't tried to mimmick the also ran competition in this sealed for life cobblers, Toyota make vehicles that people trust in, vehicles that you can rely on not to let you down especially important for those who's life may depend on them.
No one who buys a proper Toyota would expect to be leaving the gearbox oil in forever, anyone that did expect should have bought an RR and probably find out the hard way of their error.
For crying out loud Toyota just put the gearbox dipstick box back (or go one further and put a third dipstick under the bonnet for the front diff like Subaru) in your proper 4x4's and stop trying to ape the competition, competition i might add you wipe the floor with anyway, lets get the simple 'this can be fixed in the field' ethos back eh?
Rant over
In conclusion easy enough DIY for the 4 speed, a tad more complicated for the 5 speed, but if you take the temperature of the sump instead of the flashy light faff, then it's not difficult either just a bit messier having to pump the oil in. |
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timbo **
Joined: 15 Apr 2008 Posts: 84 Location: Dorset
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 22:04 Post subject: |
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Wow Juddian that sure is a comprehensive reply, many thanks. I once had a Merc 230 whose gearbox squealed like mad when cold, turned out to be a blocked filter in the gearbox, ever since then I've felt they needed changing too but perhaps not. Fairly sure mine's a 4 speed so I don't expect it would be too difficult to change. Thanks again for your help. _________________ Do more with less. |
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Juddian ****
Joined: 31 Jan 2015 Posts: 374 Location: Homeboy
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 22:41 Post subject: |
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You're welcome, hope it goes well.
Thinking about it more, the 4 speed may need Dexron 4 not 3, but you'll obviously check that for yourself anyway.
Nothing wrong with changing the filter if you prefer, the only reason i didn't is because whilst the oils coming out were more opaque than the lovely new red stuff, they weren't dirty enough to worry me into dislodging the sumps. |
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eamonn051 *
Joined: 08 May 2016 Posts: 11 Location: Waterford Ireland
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 18:52 Post subject: |
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When I said seemingly sealed for life I was actually quoting the link article added by Juddian. Very hard to know what to do really. |
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Les63 *
Joined: 09 Dec 2016 Posts: 48 Location: Coalville
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 22:55 Post subject: Auto fluid & filter |
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Did mine last spring, followed advise on LCOOL link at 106,000 miles. A bit like following instructions for most things it sounds much more daunting than it is. Got filter my from Rough Trax they now stock genuine Aisin fluid, to change it all takes 12-13 litres. [Aisin make the transmission.] Had to get the gasket from Toyota, when fitting this, a thin smear of instant gasket helps to keep it in place and ensure a good seal, most important thing when re fitting the sump don't over tighten the screws .Its not the easiest filler to get the fluid into,you'll need a small pump of some kind ,I found a cheap marine engine pump just right for the job.Before you drain any gear box or diff always make sure you can undo the filler ,for this one you need a good fitting 24mm 6 sided socket rather than a 12 sided one as Toyota make the filler plug with rounded corners .I found it well worth doing as changes came much smoother after the job. Also changing the filter is a good idea not just because of clogging but as it is basically a mesh screen it can pulse and over time fracture thus becoming useless.It helps to get the car as high as possible for this job ,always work safe under vehicles.
After a couple of years Toyota changed the sealed for life idea to 100,000 miles then to 60,000 miles as have other manufacturers.
Good luck Les. |
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budgey **
Joined: 02 Jan 2012 Posts: 100 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:37 Post subject: |
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Did mine 11 months ago prior to a drive across Europe. I have an 04 LC4 with the 4spd auto. When I changed it the LC was @ 123,000 miles
I purchased the filter from Roughtrax. It was a relatively simple job - very easy access to the sump pan bolts, and it was easy to drop. There was no gasket when I removed the pan - it was just RTV silicone. I purchased this from Roughtrax also (Code: WC028). Make sure whatever silicone you get that it's tolerant to auto transmission fluid as it will erode through if you get the wrong type. I can't remember how much oil I drained when I dropped the sump (poss 5/6 litres). Once reassembled and topped up through the dip stick hole, I drove around for a day and then drained the pan contents from the sump plug again and refilled with fresh (you'll never get it all out on a DIY basis unless you do a proper flush through with the right equipment). I was happy with the colour of the fluid once I had refilled the second time round, as it was nice and pink. Changes were a little smoother after. I used Toyota ATF Type T lV which I purchased from the main dealer - it was not cheap! Be careful with the sump pan bolts as they are only 10mm and will break easily if you over-tighten - and of course, you don't want to squeeze out all the sealant anyway!
There are some that say if the current fluid is too black/burned then it may be better to leave as is, as it contains clutch material that when drained out could cause the transmission to slip after being refilled with fresh. I checked mine via the dipstick on a fresh piece of white kitchen towel and, while dirty, it still showed a slight red-ish tinge, so I chose to go ahead and do the filter/fluid change. I was glad I did it in the end as it does give piece of mind.
Good luck with yours!
Terry... |
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sheepish ****
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 294 Location: Bridgend, Wales
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timbo **
Joined: 15 Apr 2008 Posts: 84 Location: Dorset
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Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 19:51 Post subject: |
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thanks again for all your advice _________________ Do more with less. |
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