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Newbie looking for hints and tips for buying a 2005 LC4


 
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Somerset Jim
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Joined: 14 Jan 2019
Posts: 3
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 20:59    Post subject: Newbie looking for hints and tips for buying a 2005 LC4 Reply with quote

Hi all,

Iíve been looking through plenty of posts on here and Iíve decided that I want to buy a land cruiser series 120 LWB LC4 Auto. I have found one that looks like a fairly good bet. Before I view it tomorrow I was hoping that the extensive knowledge of the forum could give me some helpful points when looking at the car. I have asked the necessary questions around the chassis and underbody rust and the current owner has had it professionally wax oiled a couple of years ago. From what I gather it is a southern uk car so hopefully not too much salt exposure. He tells me that it has been used for towing around 8 times a year as a family car with a trailer on the back so nothing too strenuous there I should think. It comes with full service history and the auto box is the 5 speed variant.

If you can think of any thing specific to this model to look out for any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Jim
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 229
Location: Sunny Northamptonshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 10:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

First place you look is underbody, waxoyling can hide a multitude of sins so look carefully for rust staining coming through the waxoyl in places, done two years ago it will have suffered last winter as all cars did so rust if there will be showing.
Chances are the sump guard will be rotten, if it's not and it's OE that is a very good sign, the wheels were originally diamond cut and laquered, if it's seen serious salt they will either be scabby by now or have been refurbed (after which they never look as nice as before), so if they are only slightly pitted that again is a good sign.

One part of the body that is worth checking, the inner sills, from underneath to the outsides of the chassis rails, now the very inner part of those sills nearest the chassis, at both ends both sides, are subject to serious battering by water and debris splashing off the wheels, in extreme cases these can rot through, they require some sort of treatment every year.

You want to hear the engine start from cold, and watch the dash whilst doing so, the red oil pressure light will take maybe a second to got out, no more, the engine might sound a bit rattly for a few mins but once warmed up should be smooth and rattle free considering it's only a 4 pot lump.

Transmission should be smooth and vice free, you will only be able to check the transmission oil under the bonnet if it's got the old 4 speed box, nothing wrong with the 4 speed at all, it's a lot easier for oil changes for one thing, the 5 speeder is quite involved for both level checking and even more so for fluid changing...which some people don't bother to have done as there is no specific service interval on the 5 speed, so it all depends on how fussy/careful/pedantic/sympathetic the owner is whether its done or not.

Injector seals can leak on these leading in worse case to blocked oil strainer and seized engine, ideally you want to see some evidence that they have been replaced, but much depends on how mechanically minded you are, my own motor i don't know if they've been done (the various dealers who serviced the car throughout weren't always helfpul on that score), so when i change the oil i let it stand overnite and inspect the oil strainer next day, which can be seen through the drain hole, with a small camera to make sure it's clean and carbon free.

These engines require an oil change every 10k or so or annually so you want to see evidence of proper servicing (twice a year for me with proper Diesel specific oil), the cambelt is due at 90k IIRC and probably the worlds easiest cambelt to change, circa £80 for the full kit and 1 hour if you DIY, don't even need to remove the auxilliary drivebelt but it's an ideal opportunity to swap that out at the same time.

Even if that one's been used for towing 3 to 5 ton diggers about you'll never know, but look for weak rear springs, sloppy transmission, and especially for evidence of ingrained mud deep in the crevices, you can never clean vehicles used regularly offroad properly, mud will be stuck fast in the nooks and crannies.

Brakes require full stripping out, cleaning and lubing with the correct brake grease...NOT COPPASLIP...at least every other year, almost all Japanese vehicles are prone to brake caliper seizing because of our annual salt excess usage, all you can do on an inspection is look carefully at the discs and calipers for signs of regular care, scabby discs would see me negotiating hard because a full brake overhaul might be on the cards.

Otherwise, these are generally decent motors if cared for, corrosion is the biggest threat by far and it's worth doing something about it, several threads on here dealing more in depth with that.
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 229
Location: Sunny Northamptonshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 12:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add.

There should be no smoke from one of these engines, condensation from the exhaust on a cold mornings yes, but no smoke of any description even under full throttle, hot or cold.
The vehicle should take off smartly from rest, a faster drive than the figures quoted might suggest.
Brakes should be very powerful requiring little foot pressure to stop quickly.
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sheepish
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Posts: 287
Location: Bridgend, Wales

PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 19:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very little I can add to such a thorough summary. Oddly my sump guard isn't at all rotten but everything on and around the chassis from about 75cm in front of the rear axle to the back has had plenty of, err weather.

From personal experience of what has rusted I'd have a good look at the brackets on the round cross member that the top control arms on the back axle mount to. And the caps where the springs mount on the axle and on the chassis, assuming you are looking at a non-LC5 with it's floaty suspension. Give those bits a good hit with a screwdriver. Fuel pipe from the filler to the tank rots, although not hard to replace and about 80 quid. Also top of the cross member immediately behind the axle, the one the panhard rod mounts on.

Front lower wishbone bushes are a faff to do, so might as well check those. Get someone to turn the steering wheel while watching for movement in the bushes.

Injectors last 100-150K miles. Good sign mine were going was a shakey / lumpy tick over in drive (on an automatic). If you can feel the shudder through the gear stick budget around £800 if you do the job yourself, maybe double that for someone else, although it's really only a day's work.

The rust is what kills them though. As long as you have proof the injector recall was done if its an 04-07 model (or look up the chassis number and confirm its not needed), just find one that's clean underneath, then get some proper rust treatment on it when you buy it. Everything else can be fixed without terrible bother.
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Somerset Jim
Newbie


Joined: 14 Jan 2019
Posts: 3
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 20:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juddian, thank you for your detailled response. I ended up going for one which I think is a good deal. The only point that it hasnít had sorted is whether or not the injectors have had any work complete. The chassis was rubbed down and wax oiled by Toyota and it seems to be a pretty good job. The brakes have been given a good bit of attention as well as having the suspension arms, springs and shocks replaced all round. All in all it has had circa £9k on replacement parts over the last 36 months with only 70k miles on the clock. Looking forward to getting out and using her with the family now.
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 229
Location: Sunny Northamptonshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 18:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

That seems like a good buy.
By the sound of it, the previous owner had much work done in order to keep the motor a long time, maybe plans changed or unforseen circumstances forced his hand.
Either way you appear to have landed a gem, well done.
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Ibex
Newbie


Joined: 21 Mar 2019
Posts: 8
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 16:58    Post subject: My own 2005 LC4 Reply with quote

Not wishing to hi jack this thread, but I'm a fellow newbie, just bought a 55plate LC4, so was very interested in the responses - particularly the one about oil light. When starting from cold, first thing, the light does take a second or two to go out. At all other times during the day though, it is out as soon as the engine turns on the starter.  I wondered whether all the oil drains back out of the engine overnight - I notice it has an upside down oil filter - and therefore needs a moment pumping up to show a pressure? Being unfamiliar with this engine I didn't know whether this was an issue or not? There are no rattles from the engine at all - it's only done 75k miles.

My other question is re injection seals - where can one check the engine number to establish whether the job needs doing? The car is still under dealer warranty so I still have time to ask.

Other than that the car is difficult to fault - and a lot more comfortable than my old Landrover!
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