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Lifespan of the turbo on a 1KZTE Prado


 
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Mike TLC
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 16:26    Post subject: Lifespan of the turbo on a 1KZTE Prado Reply with quote

Does anyone have any experience of the turbos (no inter-cooler) on this model?

I have a 220,000 km /136,000 miles Prado that has no visible turbo problems such as whining, grey/blue smoke, nor excessive oil consumption (1/2 liter every 10,000 km/6000 miles) and am just wondering what the common signs of failure are and how long they last?

Servicing has been according to the book.

Also, I'd appreciate any information from owners with more miles experience as to what would be considered "normal" engine oil consumption from this point onward.


Cheers  Smile
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diggerdave
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 11:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Common wisdom is that - correctly serviced - the turbos are trouble free.

My engine uses almost no oil (202000 miles). I still check regularly but it's very rare that it needs topping up, and never by much
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1997 KZJ90 (narrowbody) 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 203,000m
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Mike TLC
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 20:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dave

I never really top up between services but do it occasionally just to see how much is needed to get to the top of the dipstick. It fluctuates more with some oils than others, more or less viscosity, with more or less motorway...  as I said 1/2 liter at the most  gets it to full.

If I do not check the level in the morning with the vehicle parked in exactly the same position the level fluctuates too much to be of any use anyway.

Do you strip your turbo to service it?

Other than regular oil changes (more than required) and letting it idle (slow down/lubricate) for a while before switching the engine off, I've not done any turbo maintenance.
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diggerdave
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 10:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
strip your turbo to service it


Ah, sorry I was less than clear. I just meant regular oil changes. As long as that's done, conventional wisdom is that the turbos are bombproof.

That's all I do for mine, I try to let it idle for a few moments before turning off, but nothing excessive and certainly not the minute or more that some recommend.

I got my car with 140000 on the clock and have put on 60000 with oil changes every 5000. I have no idea how well the previous 10 (yes, ten) owners treated it mechanically but it seemed to have been unloved. So, yes, bombproof, I'd say based on my case study of one. And turbo problems are not something that gets mentioned on the two UK forums very often (almost never)

Do you suspect turbo problems then? Is that why you're asking?
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Mike TLC
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 10:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope!

I was just wondering whether it was something I should be expecting to have to deal with at some time.

Glad to hear that they look bombproof.

The thing seems pretty bombproof in general apart from the head issue.
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diggerdave
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 13:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

... and rust on the rear axle. Don't forget to clear the drain holes on the upper suspension arm turrets (rear AND front of the turrets) every time you service it, or more frequently.

To help with the possible overheating issue, you can fit a 76 degree thermostat instead of the 82 degree one. Threads on here and elsewhere about it - arguments for and against (mainly for), and it's something I saw the sense in doing. Also, changing the oil in the viscous fan to ensure it's working as intended (very difficult to test in a meaningful way, so better just to change the oil as a precaution). Otherwise it seems to be enough to make sure that the 'only just adequate' cooling system is in good order.

Happy driving, I love mine and apart from welding on the sills and the back axle it's been great.  Very Happy
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Mike TLC
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 17:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

I live in France - no rust - none at all. Well none that I can find...

I did Waxoyl everything when I got it, but we do not have salt on the roads in winter.

We are on the same page apparently, put in a 76C stat and an aftermarket temp gauge on the outlet coolant housing, I also replaced the viscous coupler and water pump a few years ago. I posted some temp readings on the "cracked head thread" a couple of days ago.

Drain holes? I shall have to look for those...
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diggerdave
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 19:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at the two turrets on the back axle that support the ends of the upper suspension arms there are drain holes. The ones facing the back are fairly obvious but there's also a hole at the base of each turret facing front (on mine they were so gummed up and rusted that they were not very obvious). They're a slightly flawed design as they are too small and get gummed up with crud, rust and leaves meaning the turrets fill up with water/mud that can't then escape. They are implicated in many a story of rusted/cracked turrets... cleaned mine out with a drill initially and occasionally I poke a screwdriver up to clear them.
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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2019 19:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has done 330k km and still going strong Smile
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DaveWall
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 4:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove EGR if it has one is more important to prevent cracking IMO...  

Strip one that has cracked and I'll put money on the issue being right near the port where the EGR dumps VERY hot gas right into the manifold just by the head...  I think it creates un-even heat across the head, therefore undoing all the so call environmentally good stuff it has done!

Just my opinion though before I'm sued by eco warriors!
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