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Front brake disc splash guards / dust shields


 
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MisterCruiser
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Joined: 07 Oct 2013
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Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2020 22:25    Post subject: Front brake disc splash guards / dust shields Reply with quote

I tried searching but there doesn't seem to be many threads on replacing these. I know the rears are a big job, a job I've looked into before but have avoided doing so far but only a matter of time now too.

Anyway, regards the fronts, I've had the front wheel off and the first set of bolts I'll have to undo are very rusty looking, I think I'm gonna need heat on them, but also there doesn't seem to be any room for a ratchet and socket, and I don't think a spanner will get them undone without a lot of heat.

But how much stripping down is involved to replace the front dust guards, if I get them first set of bolts out, what's next, do I have to mess with the wheel bearing or press stuff out, etc,, I have a press so ok on that aspect, but just trying to get an idea of what I'm letting myself in for.

Also, what else should I replace / renew when in there, dust seals, etc,,, as if I'm gonna do it I want to buy everything beforehand, already have the splash guards.

Any pics / guide would be great  Very Happy
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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2020 22:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, typical, my 90 series Colorado isn't the same wheel bearing design as the 120 series in the guide I posted in my previous posts. The 120 hub/bearing is bolted onto the knuckle,,,, mine is pressed together it seems.

There's pics below of my progress so far but I've a question, in my pic where I drew the red line, does the bearing separate at which end of my red line? Can I go ahead and use a pullers between the driveshaft stub end and on the hub flange at the point of my red line nearest the wheel side?

I'm assuming the bearing is going to be wrecked after it's removal? Am I right in assuming the 1 of the bearing races will be left stuck on the hub shaft after removal like what typically happens meaning the old bearing will be goosed in this procedure?



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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

You are right, the 90 hub is pressed together and the hub needs to be removed from the steering knuckle if you want to replace the dust shield in one piece (there's a clue for you).

This involves undoing the upper & lower balljoints (and replacing them with new - The lower joints are lethal when they get old), the steering arm  and ABS Sensor. The driveshaft will be left behind as the knuckle comes free.

Do Not try to pull the hub apart by pressing on the end of the driveshaft  Shocked .

Separating the hub from the knuckle is not easy. I made up a steel holder and then used my 30-ton press. The wheel bearings are double-row sealed units and will survive.

Alternative approach:

Knock-out the wheel studs.

You can now get a 12mm socket on a 3/8" drive through the stud holes onto the nuts that hold the dust shield. Use six-point sockets and a LOT of heat to get them out without ruining the threads.

Cut a slot in one side of your nice new shiny dust shield and bend it to fit over the back of the hub. Beat it flat ( Exclamation ) and bolt it up with conventional 8mm (13mm headed) stainless setscrews with copper slip or Optimal anti-seize paste.

Not pretty but it saves a LOAD of hassle.

I would still replace your lower ball joints as a matter of urgency though, they can spring apart without much warning when they get old, the 100 and 120 models have a stirrup design that put them into compression - the 90 has them in tension which is a REALLY BAD idea (speaks one who has had one spring apart on the road  Rolling Eyes ).

Hope this helps. Sorry, but I can't upload pictures.

Get back to me if you need any more info.

Cheers.

Bob.
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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 16:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Bob. I have the knuckle off now, and am struggling to separate the hub from the knuckle / bearing. It won't sit in my press properly as I can't get adequate support around the half that has no lugs and very little area to grip.

I'm trying a 3 legged pullers too and it's not having much effect either.

Good to know the wheel bearing will survive the removal of the hub, I already bought a new wheel bearing and upper balljoint in advance for this. I changed the lower ball joints couple years ago so I'll re-use them.

Maybe I will just cut a slot in the new dust shield and save a lot of hassle, seems a bit mad to have to do that now I'm this far in though. Stupid design with the dust shield.
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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 16:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

You hardly have a pic of the steel holder you made up to use in your press?
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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 16:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 22:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the Toyota oem special service Puller tool, a bit expensive.

could you make one up I reckon, any cheaper alternatives, handy to have now and in the future I think anyway.

https://www.e bay.com/itm/TOYOTA-LEXUS-OTC-TOOL-09950-40011-UNIVERSAL-PULLER-SET-B/143331572145?hash=item215f3a39b1:g:6ZEAAOSwctddL1vX
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2020 11:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

People have found that it can take up to 25 tons to press the hub out of the knuckle.

Mine didn't need that much - but certainly well over 10 tons.

You will struggle with a puller !

(from memory - there is a circlip somewhere in there, don't forget to remove it  Wink) .

Bob.
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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2020 13:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gave up trying to separate the hub from the wheel bearing in the knuckle, pullers wasn't up to it and can't sit it appropriately in my 30 ton press, and the bearing is ok so wasn't too keen on fighting it to change parts that wern't worn. I know you say my original bearing wouldn't necessarily be damaged after pressing out the hub and could be reused, I wasn't keen on reusing it.

So, I cut a small slot in my new shiny splash guard and flexed it over the knuckle / hub and bolted it on. You can see in my pics, it actually didn't turn too messy at all, I just made a small cut in the middle roughly of the wider end and that gave me enough play to flex it on.

I changed the upper ball-joint too, that took 5 - 10 tonne to remove.

I don't klnow how to resize pics, maybe a mod will do it, seems to be only this site I have a problem posting pics.



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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2020 13:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Bob - I'd be interested in seeing a pic of the steel holder you made up to hold the knuckle / hub in your press, I'd like to get something made up for myself to have in the future for when I actually do need to change the wheel bearing when the bearing itself is goosed. Smile
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

I 'acquired' an old Acetylene cylinder and cut a section out of it to give a heavy-walled steel tube. Be careful - the Angry-Grinder will set the contents alight and it will be difficult to extinguish  Shocked. Fortunately I was doing this outside but the blazing tube rolled towards the garage doors . .  

I then got a local Steel Fabricator to plasma-cut a 1 inch-thick steel disk with a central hole. The diameter was a bit larger than the diameter of the tube (that cost £100 from memory  Shocked) .

I then finished the disk on my lathe.

I cut the disk in half across its diameter and welded on some steel legs such that it was held closed then the legs were inserted into the tube.

The disk fits around the steering knuckle with the hub inside the tube. I can then press the hub out from above with the tube sitting securely on the press blocks (its a large, floor-mounted 30-ton Seeley job!).

Works a treat.

PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you some pictures.

Bob.
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MisterCruiser
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 21:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob, sounds like it was good fun making it Smile

I'm going to replace the guard on the other side now too and when I get the knuckle off I'm going to make up something as well to allow me press the hub off when needed in future.
I'll PM you my email address, cheers!

I came across this video on youtube, if you skip to 21 mins your man has a very big bearing separator / "knife" they call it, he says in the comments it's 7" separator, I've never seen a set that large before, but it's a great tool / idea for holding the knuckle in the press like he does to press the hub out. I wouldn't mind buying one of them if I could find it, maybe some of the truck / commercial tool specialists sell the larger sets.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BS96DyZfLps&list=WL&index=119&t=1289s
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2020 18:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

MisterCruiser wrote:
your man has a very big bearing separator / "knife" they call it, he says in the comments it's 7" separator, I've never seen a set that large before, but it's a great tool / idea for holding the knuckle in the press like he does to press the hub out.


I've got one like that, its a great tool . . . Its a Sykes-Pikavent Bearing Separator. It comes in a steel carry case that weighs about 20 Kilos  Shocked .

I bought it around 20 years ago - it cost £350 back then, from memory.

I bought it for my tractor, but use it on the Landcruisers as well.

Rather specialised for your average workshop though.

Bob.
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