The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[colineddy]

Hi,

Cannot for the life of me get the rear diff filler plugs off.

I think they are not mde of metal I  think they were made of some kind of mush.

Heating, sockets, cold chisel to the side etc... nothing. The metal is so fot the cold chisel just takes chunks out of it.

I am considering trying to weld a large but onto the top of it - but that would be tricky so do upside down on the drain plug....

Anyone with similar experience found the right method?

Cheers
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LWB 2001 3.0 D-4D Auto VX Colorado

[Google]

[modvrs]

Yes, they're not a great design. I use a six sided impact socket on mine and manage to shift them; I've read where people have ground the end of a socket by a few mm to get rid of the bevel and therefore allow greater contact with the nut which doesn't have a very deep head. Welding another nut on worked a treat for me on the front diff fill plug which is an even more stupid design with a 10mm hex on it, the heat from the mig welding helps loosen things up too. Drilling it out is another option. Good luck with it.
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1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado 3.4VX

[colineddy]

Really like the idea of griding down the sides of an impact socket to get it in more I will try that thanks !
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LWB 2001 3.0 D-4D Auto VX Colorado

[modvrs]

Roughtrax and Millners do replacement nuts and sealing washers if you totally mangle yours
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1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado 3.4VX

[colineddy]

Yes get them thanks and they are going to have anti sieze on them before they go in.
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LWB 2001 3.0 D-4D Auto VX Colorado

[modvrs]

I reckon just don't over-tighten them especially the drain plug, I'd rather have a bit of a struggle to get them out than risk them falling out.
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1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado 3.4VX

[Andyk80]

I had a right nightmare with the front plug on mine.  Tried the same methods as you.  In the end, I was bathing it in penetrating fluid daily for a week or so and then ground a deep notch into one side of the plug.  With a decent depth notch, I ground an old chisel almost flat then hammered it in the direction needed to undo it, with occasional hits from a blowtorch and it finally popped free.  If you go down that route, make the notch quite deep or the chisel will just eat the metal (it's pretty soft unfortunately).