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90 series boot storage rack

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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 13:02    Post subject: 90 series boot storage rack Reply with quote

Here's my build log of a rear storage system for my 90 SWB. It's going to be modular so that it can be removed without an angle grinder! This is the first section - the 'Dog Guard'. I may mesh it at some point and it will have a rifle rack in the cab side.
It picks up on the rear seat mounts, grab-rail mounts and rear parcel shelf tidy hooks.



Installed



Bottom mounts

Middle mounts

Top mounts


This is the extension from the dog guard along the load bay. The rear wheel tub sections will pick up off these.


And they go into here


More when it stop raining and Jenson has won the GP!

LC
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Grimbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 14:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good  Smile , you'r like a one man accessory manufacturer  Cool , welds look good with the MIG , dead right about the proper gas in your other post , also no substitute for amps when it comes to home migs , you need to buy about twice the amp rateing you think you will ever need to get a good smooth welder , some good cheap inverter welders out there now too.
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 14:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Grimbo. I'm trying hard. I really want to make a decent job of this. Only been welding a month now, but seem to have got the basics. Lots of free lessons on the web if you look. welding neatly and welding so that it doesn't fall apart ore two different skills. I have spent some time in the workshop just welding scrap together and than battering it to see if it's glued. I guess that I am getting the right penetration as now I just bend the metal, not the weld. It's very satisfying I have to say. I've made all sorts already. Thinking about making bumpers now. With the saw it means that compound angles are possible.

Not quite sure how I want the project to look at the moment, but it will probably have some draws etc. Taking it slowly so I don't miss the obvious pitfalls.
LC
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 16:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best tip for good MIG welding is preporation , MIG's will not weld over paint like a stick welder, clean all the areas you want to weld before trying to weld, even the clean new steel will benifit from a clean with a linishing disc before you weld it, that blackish coating on your new steel is enough to stop a good weld. The difference with MIG and stick is if a stick weld looks good and the slag peels off then its a good weld , with a MIG the weld can look good but fail very easily, if it looks like bird pooh then start again  Sad
You put us to shame with your inventiveness and ideas - keep it up  Smile
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BigSi
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 17:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good so far! Make sure you take plenty of pics! Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 22:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I'm not getting problem welds, Grimbo. I'm getting excellent penetration. Did some test samples on this box, pretty much 50% above and 50% below the joint. It's a 180 amp max unit and I'm on 4. It is very happy on mill-scale on cold formed box section without cleaning. If you clean too much you get more spatter sticking to the metal. But I agree, prep is really important on a MIG. But the issue is seeing where I'm going! I pull with a stick and push with a MIG, no problem getting a really smooth even bead, just not always on the joint! I MIG'd the tack welds today, took the frame out of the vehicle and stick welded it in the workshop. I'll get there.

LC
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 14:48    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Well, that's the basic frame in place. There will be a flat cargo deck which will be full width and a large space underneath with a drawer(s). Battery and compressor will go against the headboard down in the little space that's been created.

LC




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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 22:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good. What material are you planning to use for the cargo deck?
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 22:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man-made Dust Fragment Board. Ie sawdust glued back together again. I bought some today. I looked at 12mm, and thought, Hmm, too thick. So I ended up with 9mm. There will be some cross bars under it between the two halves of the wheel tub sections. So it'll only have to bridge fairly narrow sections. Most of my kit goes into crates when I go shooting or off road anyway so the weight is spread.
Luck thing is that the board came in sizes that need almost no cutting. Well anything for an easy life.

Pretty pleased so far. I love this welding lark. it's good working with metal. As all I'm doing is 90 degree angles, it's easy to get it right. I have my Father's old corner clamp (like two vices at right angles) and anything clamped in there and welded WILL be square. No question. As long as you measure and cut accurately, it will all be square. The MIG is good, but did some stick today and I find it far more rewarding. Finding it harder to get a 'style' with the MIG. Anyway, it's all well glued.

Will get wood (ha ha) in tomorrow and then I'll have a look at meshing the windows. I'd like to protect the glass. it means that I can pile stuff in there and know that it's not going to bust the glass when I rock n roll.

Will probably self tap the boards to the metal. Not sure I really like that. But what other option is there?

LC
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regthing
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 22:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Landcrusher wrote:

Will probably self tap the boards to the metal. Not sure I really like that. But what other option is there?


Drill an tap. If you're going to be pulling it in and out of the car then self tappers will eventually cut away too much metal and not leave much to bite into unless you manage to pick up the threads each time. Machine screws should last a lot longer.

If you're not happy with only threading the thickness of the box section then drill a good clearance hole and tack a nut to the underside of the box section. That will be strong as *beeb*!
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 22:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a bad idea.
I've actually no intention of taking it in and out at all, but I did want to be ABLE to remove it with out resorting to Oxy Acet gear if you get me. But I do like the idea of having key mc screws supplemented by self tappers. I'll have a look in my jam jars in the garage.

Thanks

LC
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 22:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

MDF and a thin wall box frame is what I'll be using as well, also 9mm which is what I've clad the side panels with. For the panels I don't expect to remove often if at all I've just drilled and screwed them. For the panels I expect to remove sometimes like the battery covers I'll use rivnuts. Good idea to protect the windows!
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 19:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well in between showers and the qualifying, I managed to make nothing but mistakes today!  Embarassed

So an hour or two with a slitting disc and a few grafts later, I managed to get the main frame in. I may go for twin drawers. We'll see tomorrow. At least it's all square and I mean really square. Yippee! All went went in the end.

Here's the frame in for the drawer system (that I haven't designed yet, oops)



And here's some of the base board in. It will go up the sides too with some pockets at the end to drop things in that will roll around otherwise.



May get a look see at the window meshing tomorrow too. Keep getting too close for comfort with tools, bar etc. Don't want to have to make ANOTHER glass claim.

LC
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 19:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow that is looking really good..

nice work
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 22:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

very handy things those thin cutting discs  Laughing  I did a bit more to mine this afternoon as well and had to cut and redo a joint so there was cursing here too  Shocked  If you had a table on your back door wouldn't a single draw interfere with it and will that be a problem?
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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