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90 series boot storage rack

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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 22:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

No don't think so. Due to the dimensions, the drawer should be narrow enough to miss a table when the door is open. It's more a case of the door fouling against the drawers when I SLAM it shut. I have taken that into consideration. I may try to put a table top on one of the drawers so when it opens, it forms the table instead of having one on the back door.

Just trying to design the drawer system now.

LC
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 16:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well things went better today. Only one foul up. Got the drawer system built, so just a bit of cabinet making to do next and that section's complete.

Instead of trying to get to get the runners in by drilling holes first and getting it all wrong. I plug welded them in first so that I could check alignement and then drill them later.



Here's the frame ready to go in



And the runners



And here's a sort of artist's impression of what it will look like. Hmm, sort of.



LC
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 22:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

Landcrusher wrote:
Due to the dimensions, the drawer should be narrow enough to miss a table when the door is open.
 Very Happy I meant when the table is deployed  Very Happy

Looking good, frame looks nice and solid. What are you going to do for your drawer construction? My wood working skills are pretty rubbish so I'm considering an angle and flat frame with either thin aluminium or 6mm mdf for the gaps. I do know a cabinet maker who could do some nicely jointed mdf drawers but I might have to wait till xmas to get them!

Just off to update my thread a bit.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 23:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have some angled perf strip that lines up with the drawer slider mounting holes. This will go on first and then a plywood floor will drop in between. Then a basic rectangle frame will go on top of that fastened down with shop bought brackets. The side are really only to stop things from falling off the base after all. I will partition it up inside to take specific items such as my stove.
The drawers will be quite long and this will make items at the back difficult to reach. The drawers will only come out out for 3/4 of their full length. I might have part of the front of the top deck done like a piano lid so that I can put seldom used items at the back (when the drawer is out), plus reach common items without opening the draw at all if the load bed is empty of course.
This does leave a space at the back of the drawer under the deck. I may come from the other side of the bulk head and have a cubby hole in from the driver's side. This would be good for a rope locker.

LC
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 0:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

My drawers probably won't go all the way to the back seats, I'll go 700mm or maybe 800mm and leave the remaining full width area for things like my ground anchor, spade, axe etc. Not as convenient to get at with having to flip the back seat up out of the way but even when I'm out laning those don't get used very often and it puts some very heavy kit in a better position for the truck. Do your front seats fold / slide forwards so you can access that area in yours?
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, they do. The passenger is a tip and slide affair for getting in the rear seats. So a rope locker would be OK there. It's certainly space that I don't want to waste. Already I can see just ho much extra room making the deck has provided. An even when tidying up after a session, shoving stuff underneath really makes so much better use of the space. I may put in a set up upright drawer to one side. Still flexible on the design concept. One bit at a time.

LC
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 18:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good session today. Got lots done. The compressor is back in and so is the leisure battery. Touch and go with a few clearances, but in the end very satisfied.

Cargo deck full reinforced now, no chance of going through it.



The compressor sits in a little cubby hole so that I can get to it from behind the seats



Made a new heavy duty battery tray which is bolted down inside


Got the MDF cut to size and in. Need to think about rivnuts or something to secure it.


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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 21:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good Landcrusher. IMO rivnuts are brilliant things but you really need the tool to put them in with. Or just drill and screw for a lot less trouble and flush finish. My mdf panels are screwed to the frames and the frames are then held down with rivnuts.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 21:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, read up on the tool. 50. Devon have a link to a DIY solution that seems fine for a few nuts. I don't actually need many. I tried normal rivets on a piece of MDF into box the other night. Blimey, that is solid. I will fit the permanent section like that with just the access panels on rivnuts, I think. Y'know, I think that this is highly over-engineered. I wouldn't make a living making these. Talk about labour of love. I think I shall make one long drawer and one standard length. I may fit a hidey-hole in there for ammo and my girlie mag stash.

Will connect comp and battery up tomorrow, then have a look at making the drawers next.

LC
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 22:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only thing I've got against rivets for this kind of thing is how much trouble they cause if you end up needing an extra bracket welding on somewhere and the wood is in the way. You know how things can end up needing to be changed  Wink
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 23:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yes. I'm with you there.

Have been looking at fastenings, but not really found the ideal item yet. Standard rivets make a really good job, but there will be sections that I need to remove occasionally. I can of course just grind the top off a rivet and push it though and replace it in the same hole. Self tappers might actually be the best answer. but then they don't get a really good hold and the threads tend to wear if used regularly.

I'm waiting until I'm happy with everything before bolting it all up nice and tighty.

LC
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 23:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a thought, rather than using rivnuts or self-tapping screws, have you considered strategically welding some small tags with holes in them to the frame and using roofing nuts and bolts to secure the MDF in place?
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 0:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, I hadn't but it's a good thought. I kinda just wanted to go straight through into the frame, but, I will have a look in the morning. Captive nuts and countersunk bolts might be a good solution.

Thanks for that.
LC
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

superb that is really nice work mate... I am following this thread with interest...
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 13:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Landcrusher.

Where did you get the steel from, local stockholders, e bay?

Was going to build mine just from wood but steel frame seems the way to go. Your setup is looking really good BTW.
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