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'how to' guide - LC 80 hub strip down & cv change ...

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suvsteve
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Joined: 01 Feb 2008
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Location: bury st edmunds suffolk

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 3:10    Post subject: 'how to' guide - LC 80 hub strip down & cv change ... Reply with quote

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this is just a guide please use propper procedures and always use saftey equipment i except no responceabilty if you brake somthing or yourself

ok this i thought may be usefull as i had the time to take pics as i went sorry for any bad pics
as i had no assistance

important if you have abs remove the sensors in hub before you start the rebuild to save any damge to them  Very Happy


jack up car place on axel stands remove wheel
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1707.jpg

i start by losening the disck bolts first as i just find it easyer now rather then later
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1712.jpg

knock the cap of the end of the flandge
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1715.jpg

remove the serclip
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1718.jpg

losen flange bolts but not compleatly (saves losing cone washers)
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1720.jpg

like so
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1722.jpg

to remove cone washers hit the side of the flange preferably with a brass drift and use a big hammer they dont like coming lose mind all the studs tho
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_172201.jpg

a few good hits and they pop
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1726.jpg

nice
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1727.jpg

remove flange
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_172901.jpg

bent flat tab washer
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1732.jpg

flatend
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1733.jpg

undo bloody big lock nut (54mm)
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1734.jpg

remove locking washer
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1739.jpg

undo main bearing nut
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1741.jpg

get attaked by sudden heavy rain  Rolling Eyes
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1753.jpg

undo caliper bolts (17mm)
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1758.jpg

if you can find them through the baked on mud
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1800.jpg

top and bottem
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_180301.jpg

remove caliper and tie up out of the way so not hanging on flexi pipe (i was changing my flexi pipe so i could take caliper compleatly of)
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1812.jpg

slide of and remove hub
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1821.jpg

undo stub axel bolts
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1913.jpg

remove dirt seal
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1914.jpg

remove brake disck back plate
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_191401.jpg

if you have a lot of mud on th swivel hub clean it of so you dont fill the hub with dirt
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1921.jpg

to remove stub axel have a bowl or bucket that can hold at least 2 ltrs of liquid and place it under the hub hold the stub and tap the flat side firmly
(the liquified grease tends to gush out )    (without the bolt and screwdriver in place)
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1924.jpg

remove stub axel
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1925.jpg

i tend to clean of gaskets as i go
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1928.jpg

to remove cv and drive shaft grab cv and gently pull towards you whilst slowly rotaiting it will slide out as the flat spot gets inline with the top
(this flat spot is to clear the under side of the top swivel bearing and wont come out or go in unless linned up)
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1936.jpg

extract cv and drive shaft clean up and place carefully  to one side to save damge
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_193601.jpg

you will probably get some oil spuw out in hinesight i should have drained the front axel oil or jacked that side up slightly higher than the other
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1939.jpg

clean out hub
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1948.jpg

tap out and remove old oil seal my way is crude and risks scratcing the case but you can get a proper oil seal remover that atatches to a slide hammer that would be better
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_194801.jpg

fit new pref toyota oil seal i use a socket that is about the same size as the new seal with an extention and tap in with a hammer till all the way in
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2036.jpg

like so make sure the seal is fully in and even
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2037.jpg

special tool time (scaffold pipe  Shocked about 3.5-to-4 ft in length)
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2010.jpg

now place a scrunched up rag under the pipe to prevent damge to the drive shaft slot drive shaft into the pipe holding by the cv hold up and let go of the cv
(drop it) gravity should over come the snap ring and the drive shaft should slide down the pipe and the cv should drop of if not repaet but from a greater hight
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_201001.jpg

and wa,la, one seperaited cv and drive shaft hopefully its worked first time every time so far for me tho not garented
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2011.jpg

slide scaffold pipe of drive shaft
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_201101.jpg

remove snap ring from drive shaft
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2014.jpg

insert drive shaft without snap ring into new cv and use it to twist cv inner to get one ball bearing near the top ready to start packing with grease
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2049.jpg

like so
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2050.jpg

push grease into the cadge untill you can see the grease come out the other side of the ball bearing use the drive shaft to twist the cv and do the same for all six bearings
keep pushing grease into all the gaps apart from the center
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_205001.jpg

some thing like this
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2057.jpg

remove drive shaft and now push grease into the center
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2058.jpg

and work it into the sides under the ball bearings compleatly fill up the center and pack it in this should take a good qauter of a pot of grease
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_205801.jpg

ensure cv is compleatly packed with grease
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2101.jpg

line the walls of the swivel hub with cv grease and work it into the swivel hub bearings as much as possible this took about two tubs of grease
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2107.jpg

fit new snap ring to drive shaft line up splines with center of new cv use pair of long nose pliers to compress the open side of the split ring
to the point the drive shaft compleatly sides into cv ensure snap ring has locked by trying to separate then thay should not seperate
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2113.jpg

if you have put any rag in the iner axel oil seal to stop cross contamination remove it insert drive shaft into axel up to the cv rotate the cv so the flat spot is at the top
slid cv into hub then rotate untill you feal the drive shaft slot into the diff you now should not be able to rotate cv freely now more
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2115.jpg

coat the front of the cv with more grase about 10mm below the serounding bolt holes place first paper gasket in place making sure bolt holes line up with
the cut out of the pape gasket at the botttem
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2159.jpg

place hub in position with the grove in the threads at the top
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2208.jpg

line up and place brake disc back plate in position with seconed paper gasket
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2210.jpg

now line up hub dust seal and place in at least one bolt to help line things up
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2212.jpg

put in all 8 bolts
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2228.jpg

and touqe up to 34 ft-lb is whot my manual says
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2230.jpg

right hub time (i suspect my bearings may be past there best so have planned to change them)
tip out front bearing and washer then unbolt the disc from the hub  
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_182101.jpg

yep past there best
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1822.jpg

hub seperated from the disc
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1829.jpg

pop the grease seal out the back of the hub
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1833.jpg

pop the rear bearing out
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1834.jpg

clean the old grease out of the hub
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1844.jpg

note the four notches in the hub on the back of each bearing case
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_184401.jpg

use a drift to hammer out the front bearing case through the back of the hub but knock it out evenly ie a few hits on each notch so the case comes out evenly and dont wedge
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1845.jpg

front case out
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1848.jpg

repeat the same for the rear bearing case
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1851.jpg

clean and check for damge
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_1858.jpg

a tip for putting in new bearing case's grip old ones in a vice get an angle grinder and cut a slot in each on grind of the berrs and use the old one's  the to knock the new one's in with
as they wont damge the new one as they are the same size and it dont matter how much you batter the old ones because you wont hit the new ones
and you can get the old case out again as they are now compressable
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_225901.jpg

place the new rear case in the hub back of hub
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2152.jpg

place old bearing upside down on top
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2153.jpg

knock in evenly untill it wont go in no further
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_215301.jpg

repeat the same for the front but use some form of drift to save damge to flandge studs
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2259.jpg

make sure case's are full seated and clean again
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2258.jpg

pack the space between the two case's in the middle of the hub with bearing grease and the bearing case's thouroly pack the bearings with grease new or reuseing
take the time to work the grease in as much as possible
drop in new rear grease packed bearing and tap in new rear grease seal this will keep rear bearing in for now
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2310.jpg

coat front bearing case with grease
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_231101.jpg

bolt hub to disc
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2323.jpg

slide hub assembly into stub axel with new front bearing new thrust washer line the peg up in the thrust washer with the grove in the thread wind on the 54mm nut to hold it all in place
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2353.jpg

torque up the inner nut to 43ft-lbs (if your just adjusting the wheel bearing with the caliper in place the pads should be removed to obtaine a correct setting)
turn the disk/hub five or six times left an right to bed in the bearing retorque do this a few times to get the new bearing to settle
losen the nut so it can be turned by hand tighten up to 3ft-lbs hand tight on the socket(do not move or rotate the hub when doing this)
check the hub turns smothly and has no play
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2352.jpg

check the preload
measure the pleload with some fishing scales attatched by a looped bit of string or a ring spanner on a wheel stud
then pull the scales to rotate the hub and check the meaurement on the scales this should be around 6-12lbs if not in range repeat the above procedure
but the measurement will vary with different grease's heat etc so best judgement within reason ie not 0 or 90lbs
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_235501.jpg

install locking washer and locking nut
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P18-07-09_0000.jpg

tighten lock nut to 47 ft-lbs
check hub turns smoothly an has no play
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_2352.jpg

check preload again
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P17-07-09_235501.jpg

once your happy bend over the tabs on the lock washer one over the rear ajusting nut the other over the front locking nut
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P18-07-09_0009.jpg

fit new flange gasket
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P18-07-09_0012.jpg

refit flange use a bolt in the end of the cv to pull cv through the flange an fit serclip to stop cv sliding back into the hub
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P18-07-09_0016.jpg

refit flange conewashers washers an nuts tighten furmly refit caliper and flange cap remember to pump the brake pedel a few times tosettle the brakes
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s185/suvsteve/P18-07-09_0055.jpg

tighten the hub to disk bolts to 47 ft-lbs and ensure caliper bolts are tight tho i dont the the touqe they should do then to the f.t. setting(fliping tight)
top up oil in diff to the level


important if you have abs remove the sensors in hub before you start the rebuild to save any damge to them  Very Happy


i would now check that your diff breaters work to save you having to rebuild the hub again in a few months as i did'nt think to check mine
i went through 5 cvs due to oil pressure building up blowing oil through the inner oil seals watering down the grease in the swivel hub then washing out the bearings hmm i was slow to learn on that one  Rolling Eyes


when i done this it was on a mates drive way done with whot i had to hand so i had to make do and done whot i could with whot i had  Very Happy

and no i cant spell to save my life  Laughing  Sad  Sad
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you have only one life, enjoy.


Last edited by suvsteve on Sun Jul 26, 2009 16:32; edited 1 time in total
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Wildmutt
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 23:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant write up, Steve. Fair play to you for carrying on with the photos in the rain. Like the tip about the old races. I've used them in the past to fit new bearings but never thought about cutting  them like that. Well done indeed!!! notworthy  notworthy
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suvsteve
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks very much wildmutt i just think if we all put a bit on we can make life a lot easyer for each other doing differnt job on the cars  Very Happy

the rain was'nt much of a prob i just made a camp lol

and ive got to say thank to my mate for letting me steal his drive way for a few weeks while im doing all sorts of long over due jobs on the poor old girl




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Supra,Sean
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 9:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a fantastic write up  Cool  Cool  Steve






I now feel confident to do mine lol I am presuming that this was done over a couple of days lol
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Ecky Thump
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cracking write up Steve Five stars plus

It's all well and good reading write ups or a manual, but there is nothing like a comprehensive photo write up.
Cutting the old races is a genius stroke, never seen that one before bounce  bounce  bounce

My missus would kill me if I wore my wedding ring working on the cars Laughing
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busaboy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 11:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great write up, will have to do mine now Smile

Do you have a list of the parts required and where did you get them from? Were they genuine?
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suvsteve
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 16:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi sean it took about six and a half hours inclueding building a camp and taking photo's cig and drink stops or probly would have taken four  Very Happy

hi Ecky it just means they dont get wedged in with the new ones and useing the old ones to drive in the new ones its nearly impossable to damge the new
as long as you take a bit of care  Very Happy
and my wedding ring has never come of since i got married  Shocked hopefully it never will eather  Very Happy

hi busaboy

if you can afford it genuine toyota is allways the way forward but many £££££ tho for the smaller seals washers and so on there not to bad Smile

cv from lezura on e bay £50, milner £88, toyota £5-600, but you will need a post 94 i think fandge the wider of the two milner about £32 gen toyota £50

drive shaft cv outer circlip milner £2 prob not much more from toyota

miler swivel houseing an hub seal set £32 but ditch the inner axel oil seal and inner hub grease seal get these from toyota sorry i cant remember how -
much they are £10 - £20 i think for the two per side

wheel bearing lock tab washer, and thrust washer, get from toyota just a few qwid

and i can't remember if you get a flange gasket in the milner kit you should do but may need to get one sepratly

you will need 3-4 pots of lithium based cv grease per side so 7-8 for the two sides
and one pot of bearing grease should just stretch to the two sides but would prob get two to be safe

diff oil mine took around 3 ltrs and a new diff drain plug washer milner or toyota

its a good chance to change disks pads brake up grade an so on

but ih your doing all this it may be worth changeing the swivel wiper seals on the axel as you get these in the kit from milner
and budget for new swivel bearings as if you take it of and they have had it you have a problem then you may some swivel bearing shims?

you will need to undo these four bolts that also have cone washers and knock the bottem of that holds the lower swivel bearing


and then undo the top two for the top swivel bearing also with cone washers i think


then there is about six or eight small bolts that hold the swivel wiper seal and you can remove the swivel hub  and change the seals

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devonoak
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 19:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOOD MAN YERSELF!!! cheers for putting the time in. If i wasnt so selfish I'd do the same, in fact i might now i've seen this one
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suvsteve
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 20:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks devonoak the photo right up realy was a test of my computer skills that are poor at best lol

it will be cool if between us we can get photo right ups on all the common jobs at least  Very Happy
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 23:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need to remove that lower steering arm to get the swivel off Steve, just the top cap and then split the ball joints on the drag / track links. The reason for saying split the ball joints instead of removing the arm is that it's quite common for those studs on the passenger side to later come loose once they've been disturbed unless you clean out the threads thoroughly with degreaser and then high strength thread lock them in place  Wink
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suvsteve
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 17:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the tip wildsmith i last done swqivel hubs about three years ago hence me only going so far ill need to cheek mine out of intrest of these are
disterbed could the nuts be replaced with nylock nuts or are they not man enough  Question
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Last edited by suvsteve on Mon Jul 27, 2009 17:42; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 17:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

dohh hit the rong button  Embarassed
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 23:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the studs that come loose so changing the nuts isn't going to help I'm afraid  Very Happy  The main problem is that the holes the studs go into aren't blind, they go up into the swivel void, which is full of grease, which likes to run down the studs if at all possible and lubricate them. If you've had the passenger side ones out, just check they're still tight from time to time because that steering arm is quite important  Laughing   The 'fix' is just to make sure the threads are chemicaly clean and high strength thread lock the studs in place.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 21:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers for the info bud  Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Superb writeup Steve - I'd hate to see the state of your camera though Wink
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