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The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club Landcruiser Club - Dedicated to Toyota Landcruiser, Amazon, Colorado and Prado Owners
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wildsmith Lifetime member
Joined: 20 Oct 2006 Posts: 1580 Location: Stourbridge, West Mids, UK
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Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 10:56 Post subject: |
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I think you changed to the newer flanges when you did this so it doesn't matter but definately use a copper faced hammer to shift the flange cone washers and don't hit the bit where the flange is thinnest. The holes flatten out and then the cone washers won't seat properly and then you'll get problems with nuts coming loose and studs shearing. Not as big a disaster as your steering arm coming loose but still a PITA _________________ Jon m0zxj
01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP |
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Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 10:56 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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jvoelcker *******
Joined: 21 May 2004 Posts: 1039 Location: Nr Ledbury, Herefordshire. UK
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Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:18 Post subject: |
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That's funny, I always only undo the steering arm and leave the top swivel alone and lift off the whole knuckle assembly.
As Jon says there can be issues with the lower four studs, but I always thoroughly degrease everything and threadlock the studs anyway.
ON the grease front, you only need to fill the knuckle about 3/4 full and you should use a Moly based CV grease (most greases have lithium in them anyway). _________________ Cheers,
Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs. |
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wildsmith Lifetime member
Joined: 20 Oct 2006 Posts: 1580 Location: Stourbridge, West Mids, UK
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Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:40 Post subject: |
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I liked to fetch the top cap off to get a look at the bearing and adjust the shims if needed and I split the joints often enough for the cotter pins not to be a problem but in your position I might view it differently I guess if the studs have been properly installed once, or are about to be, then from that point on only the nuts should come undone and the studs never come loose again anyway. _________________ Jon m0zxj
01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP |
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Desperatezulu Lifetime member
Joined: 29 Mar 2008 Posts: 483 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:30 Post subject: |
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I started on my front axle rebuild this weekend - only did the RH side but learned plenty in the process I will start a separate thread to report what I learned that might be useful for any other first timers attempting the job...
I do have a question pertinent to the last few posts here, relating to replacing the swivel/trunnion bearings. Getting the old outer races out was probably the worst part of the entire job - is there an easy knack to tapping them out? We ended up using a long screw driver and 30-45mins of tapping away per race to get them out As there are just the two little cut-outs in the housing to access the race, using Steve's technique of slotting an old race and using that to drive out the races isn't an option.
For the record, it took 2 of us EIGHT hours to do the one side/corner from start to finish If Steve did both in 6.5 hrs, then serious "hats off" to the man I'm sure that experience will make the next time a bit quicker - need to do the other side this weekend!
Cheers, _________________ Andrew
'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v |
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wildsmith Lifetime member
Joined: 20 Oct 2006 Posts: 1580 Location: Stourbridge, West Mids, UK
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Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:22 Post subject: |
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Desperatezulu wrote: |
I do have a question pertinent to the last few posts here, relating to replacing the swivel/trunnion bearings. Getting the old outer races out was probably the worst part of the entire job - is there an easy knack to tapping them out? We ended up using a long screw driver and 30-45mins of tapping away per race to get them out As there are just the two little cut-outs in the housing to access the race, using Steve's technique of slotting an old race and using that to drive out the races isn't an option. |
I use a bit of brass round bar to drive races in and out. Moving the races evenly is important, if they twist a bit then they're a *beep* to shift so keep your eye on how level they are and if one side is lower than the other give it an extra tap till they're level. If it won't level like that, drive the high side back in to level. Never put too much effort into it unless you're confident everything is square. Your screwdriver probably absorbed most of the impact so you were at it a long time, a bit of bar will give a more solid contact. I only use brass because it's hard enough to be useful but softer than the races. A steel bar will do if you're careful not to slip and mark the races when you're driving them in. I don't remember the swivel races being hard to get out BTW. _________________ Jon m0zxj
01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP |
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Desperatezulu Lifetime member
Joined: 29 Mar 2008 Posts: 483 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:34 Post subject: |
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Thanks, Jon!
I used a brass bar but the race was sticking so tightly that it was shearing off bits of the bar. The brass bar/drift that I had was way too small anyway, so it was difficult to get a decent hit on the drift - and then bits were slicing/flaking off.. As I was replacing the bearings, I wasn't too concerned about protecting the old races, hence the use of the screwdriver. As far as we could see, the races were coming out square but I guess more attention will be paid to that next time
The new races were tapped in square with a brass-headed hammer and they went in easily without any excessive force required! Hopefully I won't need to do this job too often!
Cheers, _________________ Andrew
'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v |
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wildsmith Lifetime member
Joined: 20 Oct 2006 Posts: 1580 Location: Stourbridge, West Mids, UK
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Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:03 Post subject: |
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Oh yes I forgot to mention the safety glasses being very important with a brass bar! It should never take so much force that the brass is shattering to drive new races in but to get the old ones out you could swap to a steel bar. If the bar doesn't jump and score the face of the race then using a steel one is also fine for driving them in. Having to use a lot of effort almost always means they're not coming out square. Good luck with the other side _________________ Jon m0zxj
01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP |
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jvoelcker *******
Joined: 21 May 2004 Posts: 1039 Location: Nr Ledbury, Herefordshire. UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 17:37 Post subject: |
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I've used standard punches or a brass punch for knocking out the races - the key is to clean the grease away so that you can see the four slots that expose a greater area of the race and keep the punch as parrallel to the inner hub as possible to avoid scoring the inner surface of the hub.
The inner hub saces are always the worst because they always tend to let go and you can end up catching your fiingers on the drive flange studs.
With a decent punch and hammer it should only take a minute or so per race to punch them out _________________ Cheers,
Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs. |
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Desperatezulu Lifetime member
Joined: 29 Mar 2008 Posts: 483 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 19:57 Post subject: |
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I've ordered a decent long steel punch to use on these pesky races I didn't have any trouble with the wheel bearing races in the hub - the four nice big cut-outs made it much easier. It was them knuckle bearing races with the 2 tiny cut outs that I battled with!
I figured if we managed to get them out using a long screw driver without marking/scoring anything, a rounded punch should be ok. I tackle the other side this weekend, so my theory will be put to the test
Cheers, _________________ Andrew
'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v |
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jvoelcker *******
Joined: 21 May 2004 Posts: 1039 Location: Nr Ledbury, Herefordshire. UK
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Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:43 Post subject: |
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Yes, a long punch does help with the knuckle bearing races - again you have grooves to help position the punch on the races, but this time only two grooves - usually a couple of good taps on either side of the race will have it flying across the workshop _________________ Cheers,
Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs. |
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Desperatezulu Lifetime member
Joined: 29 Mar 2008 Posts: 483 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:09 Post subject: |
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It was the "flying across the workshop" part that I was struggling to replicate
Cheers, _________________ Andrew
'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v |
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Supra,Sean **
Joined: 05 Dec 2005 Posts: 100 Location: Wigan
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Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 21:05 Post subject: |
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I have said how good this write up was BUT
Today I finally did my strip down and re-build of the front axle.
This write up was sooooooooooooo valuable because you see what you are doing and not just reading loads of words so much so that my 16 year old Daughter was reading/looking at the write up and telling me what to do next lol
Steve awesome job mate _________________ Sean
1990 Black Toyota Supra Mkiii Turbo
1992 Blue/grey 4.2td VX Import |
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suvsteve Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Feb 2008 Posts: 506 Location: bury st edmunds suffolk
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Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 22:30 Post subject: |
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cool im just glad its helps cheers mate _________________ regards steve
you have only one life, enjoy. |
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Gavlad Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Sep 2008 Posts: 468 Location: Wirral
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 17:03 Post subject: |
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Should have posted back on this one yonks ago - sorry Steve...
I took Steve's writeup & made a pdf file from it - Steve's had a thrutchel at it & is happy with what I've done to/with his thread content. If anyone wants a copy I'll email it out.
Its 3.4Mb big but I've resized the photo's & used columns in MS Word so its down to 14 pages for them that wants to print out Steve's excellent work to have alongside them on the battlefield!!!
Cheers gringos _________________ Gav
'98 90 - family truck, 275x75 BFG AT's, homebrew aloominium roofrack
'94 HDJ80 - homebrew rear bumper fitted (but not quite ready to recover off!!!), +4 IronMan & 35 MTs ON!!! - front bumper still in the offing... |
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wildsmith Lifetime member
Joined: 20 Oct 2006 Posts: 1580 Location: Stourbridge, West Mids, UK
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 18:06 Post subject: |
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If you send it to me I'll put it with the fsm's and post a link here _________________ Jon m0zxj
01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP |
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