The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

Landcrusher · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:55 Post subject: More sliders

Having more free time than is good for anyone, I decided to mess about with some new sliders. There does seem to be a bit of a need just recently. Those factory steps seem to be littering the countryside. Not sure about bracket design at the moment, but the basic slider would look something like this:

50mm pipe and 50mm box throughout

Tee joint detail

Mini mock up of end rail and support spacers

Fully seam welded, these would be very strong. 50mm box would be best for the support arms onto the chassis plates (not designed, but not difficult.)

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

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wildsmith · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 19:13 Post subject:

I like the jointing, have you had a new toy or are you using a template? I think tube sliders look the part but if you've not tried living with some before you might need to know that as steps they're very very slippery when wet. For bog snorkling that might be an issue Laughing

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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP

Landcrusher · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 20:06 Post subject:

I am part of a welding forum, Jon and I asked the question about Tee joints. There was a lot of held there. Someone posted a brilliant app where you type in the diameter and angle etc and it draws a paper template. You print it and wrap it around the tube then cut it. Fantastic. Know what you mean about slippery, but you could chequer the tops very easily like yours. I don't actually stand on mine to get in though. I am sort of tentatively offering my services if someone wants some making up. I think that actually I need to split the angles if that makes sense. So instead of cutting a 30 degree, you cut 2 x 15 degrees, one on each end. More work, but then the 'true slant' matches better to the opposing piece. My idea was to mount the first support close to the end joint so that I could just weld it all as one and hide the excess from the cut.

I think this is gas pipe. Crumbs it is bomb proof.

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

wildsmith · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 22:40 Post subject:

I thought I could see some marker pen and you must be using a template, very handy Very Happy

If you split the angle equaly between the two pieces then their profiles should match shouldn't they so you'll have nothing to hide and could put the support a bit further back? I've avoided making the outer tube too solid on mine so that for sizable impacts it will deform and absorb a decent amount of energy instead of transfering it all to the chassis in places it wasn't designed to withstand impacts. Hit them hard enough and of course the end result will be the same but otherwise they will dissipate a good deal of the energy and either just be dented or need cutting off and replacing. Just something else to throw into the ideas pot.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP

Landcrusher · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 22:57 Post subject:

Oooo, get you Perry Mason. Marker pen indeed. Damn you're good..

Yes, splitting the angle has to be better. But that's the idea of mini mock ups. Still, bigger things to fix just now. Not just the diff, I stripped front caliper today. Two pots fine, one tight, one completely solid. Haven't looked at other side yet. Bet the brakes will be much improved one I do this job. Did the rears recently, new seals and everything. I'll drop these into the parts washer for a week and get them cleaned up before I start.

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

mick the digger! · Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 23:59 Post subject:

I would be interested in a look at that site with the angle converter!
you will find though that after a while you will be able to notch with just a marker pen and an other piece of tube.
would you consider a pipe bender rather than cuting and splaying, would look alot neater IMO, you can hire them from tool hire places or but them for around 100 pounds...then you can make all sorts, bumpers cages etc!

Landcrusher · Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 19:51 Post subject:

Got cracking this week. Well, what's holiday for?

Here's the basic bracket. There are three of these (remember it's a shortie, so that's quite a bit of bracket strength. I bent these to suit each part of the chassis.

Then I added the out rigger. I have tried to keep these short so that they don't flex. They only use a single bolt. I know that I could go mad and add bolts all over the place, but these go through the chassis so the bracket gets clamped pretty hard onto the box section.

Here's the bracket offered up. Hey, it's all precision stuff you know.

This is what one side looks like. Now, these are ONLY the sill protectors / rock sliders. They are there to protect the underbody. I have yet to add the 'fenders' or tree bars that will come up the side under the door to protect against side impact damage.

You can see here that they don't protrude at all but sit well underneath - ideal for sliding. The next section will be the round pipe which will, if the magic works, come out and up.

Right, off to calculate the angles and have a pint!

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

SpinDrift · Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 21:21 Post subject:

Good thinking Chris! I have a look at my chassis in the morning and modify my designs accordingly. Need to have a word with my local welding shop now.

What sort of bolts are you using? Are they the sort you'd get down at b&q? Or are they something stronger?
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cheers Reinhard

97 KZJ95, BFG AT 265/75/16's, OME suspension, split charge system, snorkel, storage system, a few scars and bruises

Landcrusher · Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 22:10 Post subject:

Not big on bolt technology, but high tensile should do the job, I'd have thought. The idea behind this design is that you can't really put a full loading on the bolt itself. The basic slider is quite close (deliberately) to the sill and that means that even if the outrigger could flex, it couldn't flex very far. Now if you think about how much you would have to twist the whole U bracket to be able to exert any real force across the bolt given that only one side of the bracket would be in tension, the other in compression, I don't think that bolt choice is critical. On my older sliders, the bottom was held by a bolt which would be in tension. On these, as you can see, I have fully bent and welded the strap. So instead of a 12mm bolt, I have 100mm of 6mm steel. I reckon that the bolts are largely there just to hold the brackets on. It has been quite a lot of work. It's all custom fit stuff. Not technically challenging, just time demanding. Getting all the bolt holes to line up etc takes time. Simple under and over plates and bolts makes it almost universal. I didn't want that.

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Landcrusher · Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 19:39 Post subject:

Working in the wet is utterly miserable, but the alternative - a day out with the family? Brrrr, no, out into the rain I think.

Here's the tacked up slider with tree bar. I had to abandon the dihedral idea. The angles were just too difficult for me and the swb means that there wasn't really enough slider length to get it all one. OK, version two may have up-swept bars.

They stick out a little more than the originals. When you are leaning over, you tend to end up resting on the roof gutter, so I felt a little more fend off might be useful.

Just got the corner gussets to weld in, ends to fill and hi lift sockets to weld on and a bit of cosmetic grinding here and there plus some nice garish paint and we should be good to go.

If you heard about the minor earthquake in Indonesia today, that was me dropping one of these bars on the drive!!!!!!

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

wildsmith · Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 1:05 Post subject:

They should look good painted up and more is definately best when it comes to fending off trees Laughing

_________________
Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP

Landcrusher · Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 1:20 Post subject:

Agreed, but maybe something smaller when it comes to making my new roof rack, perhaps?

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Landcrusher · Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 19:05 Post subject:

Well that's the sliders fitted - in the dark. Managed to scrape half the paint of getting them on, but that's easily solved. They are very stiff. I have tried to jack the vehicle up on the rails and they don't flex at all. Now I can get on and finish that darn rear bumper!

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

bigyun · Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 20:08 Post subject:

That looks really good LC, that has given me something to think about for mine. Have you got a link for the forum that had the paper template for cutting tubing that would be real handy. I will have another crack with the diff guard next week and make the tweaks that are needed and let you know how I get on.

Bigyun
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98 Colorado, LWB, OME suspension 40 mm lift, Safari snorkel, ASFIR belly plates. TBR winch mount with Warn M8000 winch

wildsmith · Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 20:25 Post subject:

They're much too clean, get some dirt on them quick, you have enough spare Laughing

_________________
Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP