The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[garystockton]

I'm starting to look at what's involved here in switching out my OEM LSD rear diff for an OEM e-locking diff I got off flea-bay.  The new one looks good, and has only 10,000 miles on it.  The switch can be had for under £40, and the loom seems to be available.

Jon recommended I look into getting a gasket for the rear carrier and confirming that the carrier won't need too much modification.  Toyodiy lists both gaskets with the same part number, so that seems to suggest that there won't be an issue:



The gasket part number is 42181, RRP is €6.72 so I may just get one anyway, as I'll need one.

Anyone got any other pointers to worry about?  Reasons to NOT do this??
Cheers
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I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.
- Terry Pratchett

[Google]

[wildsmith]

Apart from the locker itself I didn't find any different part numbers on the axle between locked and LDS. Best bet is pull the shafts and drop the diff. If I'm right you can pop the e-locker in and stick it all back together and if I'm wrong you can stop pondering it   it's not a big job and has the advantage of letting you check your rear wheel bearings / hubs are AOK. I always use RTV on diffs not the paper gaskets but I would still get one to check before putting a days labour into the above.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP

[wildsmith]

That's not a full part no. Gary BTW, and I do see a different gasket in the EPC. You should have 42181-60120 now and would need 42181-60130 for an e-locker. Get one of the first, or one of both and compare. If cutting a bit out of the first one gets you the second one then you're good to swap.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP

[wildsmith]

Look at LC's 90 rear axle strip thread: http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6934 6th picture down the slot on the right hand side of the opening is what may need cutting out of yours so the locking mechanism can pass through. Not sure if the holes for those two long studs will line up or need the old ones filling and new ones making.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP

[garystockton]

[garystockton]

Hmmm - seems there is a different rear axle housing assembly..

42110-60870 Air Suspension and LSD
42110-60890 Rear Electrical Diff Lock and air Suspension

So perhaps this may be much more complex than dropping in an ARB air-locker     Depends on whether I need the key-way or not, and if I have to get it cut.  And if that's the case, I'll flog the diff and buy an ARB air locker sometime.  
_________________
I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.
- Terry Pratchett

[wildsmith]

You have an angle grinder now Gary, that's all you need to cut the casing   You can use the e-locker gasket as a template, nice and easy.

Sell the actuator and keep the rest if you go that route, the R&P are worth the purchase price alone and you'll get a good chunk of your money back on the actuator.

An ARB is going to cost a heap of money to do the same job but be less reliable. In case you're wondering, the reason I didn't go for an e-locker on the rear of mine is that there's a design weakness in the 80 & 100 rear locker that I decided on balance I'd take the ARB's unreliability instead.
_________________
Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP

[Olazz]

[garystockton]

Interesting write-up here on lockers and diffs in general:

Diffs and stuff
_________________
I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.
- Terry Pratchett

[Nuclear Chicken]

Gary, I've an '04 LC5. Have I a LSD on the rear? If so I didn't know or how do I find out for sure?
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'04 KDJ120R LC5. Died 17th Dec 2010. RIP.

[garystockton]

Yep - it'll be a Limited Slip Diff.  The lack of a diff-lock switch on the dash just to the left of the steering wheel, next to the 'second start' switch (you have a 1.5" blank instead) will confirm, as will the sticker (if it's still there) on the rear diff cover saying LSD oil only, and no connection to a wiring loom for the actuator.

Only the LC3 came with the e-locker, and without traction control.  Interesting that they've reversed that for the 150 now!  The new LC3 comes with ATRAC and the LC5 gets a rear diff lock and ATRAC, IIRC.

Cheers
_________________
I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.
- Terry Pratchett

[Glenn]

easy to check for a lsd.Jack up both rear wheels, turn one  wheel forward and look at the opposite wheel it will turn the same direction if it is an lsd. or it will turn the oposite direction if an open diff.

gary do you want to sell your removed lsd? my lc4 has a standard open diff.

[Nuclear Chicken]

[Landcrusher]

I don't think that it necessarily damages, it just won't work with that oil in. You can get an additive to put in 'normal' oil. OK someone will correct me, but I don't think that LSD oil is special, it just has some magic added. Oil in general terms isn't damaging, but may contaminate parts. What do you reckon chaps - just add some LSD additive?

C
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

[wildsmith]