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Mystery coolant leak 90 D-4D

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colineddy
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Joined: 30 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 14:36    Post subject: Mystery coolant leak 90 D-4D Reply with quote

Hi I have a 90 series LWB D-4D.

I loose about a 2 pints of coolant per week.

It goes down whether I am driving the car or not.

Symptom is that the heater goes cold - in other words I suppose there is no coolant in it to make it warm. Fill the fad back up and fixed.

I can't see any sign of coolant in the transmission fluid and I can't see any sign of it in the engine oil and I can't seem to see any come out of the engine onto the ground.

It's a mystery - the engine runs great, no funny smoke etc....

Anyone had similar?

Cheers,
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drew m
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 15:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
Check area round about water pump, had something similar for a while then water pump started making noises, worth a look.

Drew
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colineddy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 23:24    Post subject: found it Reply with quote

It's the pipes that I think taker the coolant to the rear heater matrix but I am posting here to make sure I have correctly identified.

There are two little pipes that look just just brake pipes running from the engine compartment down and under the drivers seat and then back up into the floor.

They are rusted and dripping. I think that they are rear heater matrix cables - are they ? Photos below.



Also if these are the rear heater pipes then do they originate under the bonnet here (red circle) and so can't I just join these two pipes and bypass the whole thing?



And if I can't bypass them is this a tricky job? Just looks like awkward knuckle skinning and swearing but not too tough... ? Famous last words.
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drew m
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 8:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mines a swb so I don't have a rear heater, rubber pipes could be an easier option similar to replacing  metal diesel pipes, not sure though as the heater pipes will obviously get hot and rubber pipes may not be suitable.
Drew
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diggerdave
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 12:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't need the rear heater, I've heard people say that they just by passed the rear heater pipes by joining the two pipes with a short length of rubber hose

Also a SWB so no direct experience of this
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colineddy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 13:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I don't need the heater at all the only question is which 2 pipes I join?

I am thinking that it is the two I have circled in red ? but I am not 100% sure. If anyone could help identify that would be great.
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daihot
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 0:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi colineddy,
The pipes you have circled are the rear heater pipes 100%.
I am refurbing the underside of my SWB d4d which has the rear heater
and have just refitted them as they only needed a coat of hammerite.
Bridging them over to by pass the heater is an acceptable  solution.
Hope this helps.
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Beastrider
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 0:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello - Yes, it’s those two pipes. If you crawl underneath it’s easy to follow them back to the rear heater, via the steel pipes that have rotted. Corrosion of those steel pipes is really common and it’s a good job you noticed when you did. I replaced mine with long lengths of rubber heater hose and removed the original steel pipes altogether. Relatively easy (and cheap) to do because I wanted to keep the rear heater. If you don’t need the rear heater, you just remove the hoses from those two pipes you circled and join the pipes with a loop of heater hose (with clips of course).
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colineddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Thanks for the help.

I cut them and plugged them with a M10 bolt and 3 jubilee clips each.

I did have a plan for a more elegant solution to get them off the other end of the metal fitting about half way down the bulkhead and so they would not need to be cut.

But it was very tight and they were fused to the metal and I was trying to get some pliers down there to compress the clips and I was putting very large force on them and they would not come off. I looked and saw that the brake lines were down there and I was resting my arm on the brake cylinder and I just thought this has got the potential to go horribly wrong here and why am I making life difficult for myself - I've never used the heater ever.

So Stanley the knife come out, then I plugger the holes and it seems the leak has stopped.

By the way since these two pipes are very high in the engine bay I don't know how the car was leaking when stood because once the fluid had dropped below these points there should have been no flow...maybe I was imagining it leakign when stood. Certainly when the water pump was running it would have pushed it straight out of the rusty pipe under the drivers seat.

Anyway seems all sorted.

Thank you again all.

[email]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u367/HermanMelville/pipes.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/email]
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colineddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

trying the pic this time,

[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u367/HermanMelville/pipes.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/img]
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colineddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems you have to click the link to see the photo - don't know why I can't get it to show up in the thread like before
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colineddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have clearly failed with the photo sorry
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andy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 12:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe


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Dave-Mid Wales
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2021 20:55    Post subject: Mystery coolant leak D4D Reply with quote

 

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PreviewPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2021 20:52     Post subject:I've just experienced exactly the same issue with our 2002 90. The pipes have rusted until they are paper thin and started leaking when the MoT tester rubbed his hand along them as they were slightly moist.

Funnily enough I've also blanked off the feed and return in the engine compartment while I decide what to do. This, or replacing the 2 metal pipes with rubber piping, is the only long term option now, as the original part is no longer available from Toyota.

It took me about 3 hours to remove the pipes as they're a real pig to get at between the back of the engine and the bulkhead.

At the moment I've asked a local classic car restoration garage for a quote to have both pipes fabricated. I suspect this'll be prohibitively expensive - so I can see a bit of a bodge coming up.

More worrying was the comment from the Toyota MD parts chap that unusual and far less commonly replaced parts, such as these coolant pipes, are no longer available for the 90 from Toyota as the model's no longer supported by the manufacturer
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colineddy
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2021 8:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that I have fiddled with it, fixed it and lived with it I have the benefit of hindsight.

If you want to repair it back to functional then I would not even take the old metal pipes out.

I would just cut both ends of the metal pipe back to ‘good’ and then fit rubber hose on each. Various jubilee clips, cable ties and wires etc can hold the rubber hose in place.

If you ask me a design flaw by Toyota to put those pipes under there to corrode when they can literally ruin your engine if they go wrong and it overheats.
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