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Prado 120 Front underbody shield

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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 374
Location: Homeboy

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 19:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paint wise, unfortunately i didn't pre paint them, wish i had because the powder coating they come with isn't proof against a typical UK salt bath or two, so now i just coat them in grease or paint some ACF50 or similar on when i see another section of original powder coating peeling off.

Many years ago when i had my 70 series, it had probably the original Toyota steel tubular bull bar on, a very sturdy affair indeed with bracing bars so not only bolted under the chassis it was braced by stays bolted to the top of the chassis too.
It was looking the worse for wear and i had it shot blasted then zinc sprayed then stove enamelled by a chap i used to know who owned a workshops who did that sort of thing, paint was hard as nails, doubt it would be cost effective on these panels mind, my suggestion would be POR15 for paint.

Anecdotally, when the 70 was written off it took out a set of armco straight on at about 40/50mph, complete with concrete block foundations the lot, that bar took it all, the top of the bar pushed back about 4" putting a small dent in the bonnet, other than that and a bent front bumper the front of the 70 was untouched, front cross member hadn't budged, radiator etc all intact not even a cracked lens, effectively a battering ram.

The expensive damage came from the concrete blocks hitting and badly scoring both axles as it passed over, and all side plastic wheelarch extensions were ripped off...however my Mrs who was alone the car at the time simply restarted selected 4WD and just reversed out through the carnage.
Had she been in her Punto at the time not sure she'd have walked away from that one, so i'm eternally grateful to that Toyota for allowing me the intervening years with her, she's still upset about writing the old girl off though..especially when i point out the price of good 3 litre 70's for sale  Twisted Evil

It could have been repaired and indeed the chap who bought the salvage phoned me several months later, but NFU paid us out a very fair write off value.
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 19:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karl doesnt have to remember, he does a proper job and logs it.
I can't remember which e bay I bought the bolts from either Juddian, so you're not alone there. I reckon we've both got white line fever
Oh, and I can remember the girl on the Tonbridge train too !
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 20:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Talking of goldfish memory spans, I'm posting this while I remember it!

From the point of view of fitting the engine bashplate:

1. The supplied bolts for the front crossmember (by the radiator) did not appear to fit at all for me.  I used the old ones from the old shield, with the new washers.

2. The kit I had, had two black L pieces, and two straight black pieces.  The L ones go on the middle crossmember, and the straight ones go at the back.

3. The instructions say there are 80mm bolts for the brackets at the rear crossmember, but the 80mm are only for the middle crossmember - the rear one uses the 30/35 mm bolts.

4. The instructions talk about 30mm bolts, but most of the ones in my kit were 35mm.

5. WATCH THE 80MM BOLTS FOR THE MIDDLE CROSSMEMBER BRACKETS.  The one on the drivers side was dangerously near a pipe just above the crossmember, and could have possibly rubbed on it (or worse!) when the bolt was fully done up.  I took 10-15mm off the bolt with a hacksaw.  Just make sure when you do them up that they're nice and clear on the top.

6. I had the LC up on ramps, and used two small (car) axle stands to help hold the thing up while I was bolting it up.

7. I didn't have to cut the brackets for the rear crossmember but they were a bit fiddly.  From what I can tell, you have to go through that each time you take the plates off?  How annoying.  Maybe needs a bit of alteration to that plate so that it can slot on top of the washer rather than removing the bolts totally?

The gearbox plate was uneventful - the brackets at the (even more) rear crossmember are awkward to get in but hopefully they will never have to be undone again - similar to the 'box' thing at the front.  Gearbox plate is a bit heavy, but with the ramps and some axle stands to support it, I had enough space and it was easy enough.

I should have taken the advice to get different bolts - but I didn't really have time as its only been sitting in the garage for 12 months Smile

Thanks for all the advice from Tractionman, and Jud's previous posts about it - without all that info I would have taken it to the scrapyard.
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 21:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good write up Karl, there for posterity now.
Good point about that bolt you cut, I'd forgotten that, (goldfish moment) but as I had bolted up with original hex heads before Jud advised the dome heads, I got a shorter one as I felt it was a bit close to the pipe for comfort too.
One thing with it though, you can see/feel it, so would cry out for cutting/changing.
I didn't have to cut any brackets, I did mine properly, haha. Only joking mates !
When I took mine off a few months ago, I just unbolted them, no messing with the brackets, and I found axle stands got in my way, initially, so laid on my back I used hands arms and knees to fit the plates while on ramps. Must have had my spinach that day.
No matter what method used, most jobs are like that, we all got it done, so Fazza, take heart, you will get there.
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 374
Location: Homeboy

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 21:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

You two  Embarassed , now you've got me worried, where's this blinking pipe i failed to realise is now probably almost chafed through on the long bolts i failed to shorten...can feel the ramps coming out again  Crying or Very sad  Crying or Very sad
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 22:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jud - its just the bolt on the drivers side to check - the other one was well clear of everything.  Not sure what the pipe is for, it was p*ssing down so I didn't hang around to trace it.  

TM - hmmmm I wonder how you got the plates back on without messing about with the bracket on that rear crossmember?  These flat brackets in the rear crossmember are like a poor man's captive nut (cue the jokes haha), except theyre not captive so once your bolt is out, the thing is floating.  I think all the other brackets would be OK and it wouldn't be too bad apart from that.  Its not that bad I suppose as you can get at the top of it, I can just see it being annoying as the last part of a long job when you're putting the bloody thing back on!

You're right - we all muddle through and get it on one way or another, then its onto the next problem!  haha
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 374
Location: Homeboy

PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2021 7:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Karl, i'll have a look and see if that bolt is clear.

Well impressed with you mind, my set sat for months in the garage until Spring poked its head through, yet a monsoon doesn't deter you.
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2021 10:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

As per Karl, drivers side, over the top of the crossmember, right where the bolt pokes through to screw in the bracket. Its a small bore metal pipe (on mine). I thought it was a brake line, but not sure.didnt check.  Get those ramps out Jud !
There is some jiggle room, as the holes in the crossmember are plenty big, but I thought still a bit close.
Been giving the removal some thought after that Karl, and I think it was just the  big winged one, I certainly didn't remove any brackets.
Once I had mine, I laid it out and thought I had it sussed, then I buggered about with mine over the next weekend, until it fitted.
Looking down on it on the floor, was too much for and old fart to take in when I was underneath looking up.
TBH, Once it's on, after having worked it out, I don't think it was anywhere near as hard as it all sounds.      Ready for incoming !!
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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 374
Location: Homeboy

PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2021 11:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, you're quite right TM, once fitted you can't understand why it appeared so difficult, but the instructions could be better.

I was lucky in that all the existing bolts used on both the previous guard and as captive nuts for the new plates came undone with no issues.
Also helps i can get the whole vehicle off the ground easily and solidly safe by using 4 x ramps, the two at the rear being standard car ramps so around 3" lower than the big jobbies i use at the front, can't use 4 x big uns because you wouldn't have enough clearance under the sills, being as these motors usually sit higher at the rear anyway the truck is level once on the ramps and with LC5 you can always adjust the rear height a little to suit.
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Fazza284
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Joined: 10 Sep 2020
Posts: 18
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne

PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2021 12:53    Post subject: Skid plate for engine Reply with quote

Success at last, poured down with rain this morning, but stopped about 11,sun came out and was able to get the LC on the ramps for another go at the skid plate, thanks again tractionman it all started to make sense and fitted perfectly, like you said it is good quality for the price, very solid think they must have changed the fitting slightly as there was only 2 L shaped bars which were for the rear most cross member, the other flat bars went inside the Cross member but it was possible to hold this in place while I fitted the bolt, now that I am happy with the fitting I will remove everything in a few weeks an treat any rust and give the plates a few coats of underseal, I did get a bill for duty and tax, £68 so a total of £258, still happy with that,
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2021 15:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juddian, have to agree with having up on 4 ramps, Karl and I have found it so much easier with our extra wide jobbies for numerous jobs rather than playing musical ramps and moving around with 2. If the instructions with the split diagram actually showed the relevant part of crossmembers position, it would be so much clearer as we have found out. My Toyota cornflake box original was half rotted/missing anyway, and bolts that wouldn't come undone got the heat/angle grinder treatment, but no BFH, haha.

Fazza, well done for persevering, you got there. You know how it goes, so plain sailing next time.
We're all happy with the quality of ours for the price, although Juddian and myself got the pre brexit price. Even with that hike, a good purchase overall with a strong product that offers serious protection.
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