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locking wheel bolts

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Dafydd Wynn Williams
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
Posts: 69
Location: 3 miles south of Bangor North Wales

PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 15:01    Post subject: locking wheel bolts Reply with quote

Hi All.

My 2004 TLc had locking wheel bolts fitted when I bought it, which I definitely don't need and would be a nascence in the event of a puncture, so am replacing them with ordinary bolts.  Done 3 but failed to get the fourth loose.  They are 12mm thread bolts, and the KEY bolt is now slipping out of place when pressure applied.

There are several 'extractor' bolts on e bay, with an internal LH 'thread' to grip the locking bolt (25.75mm diam), but reviews seem variable.

I wonder if anyone has successful experience of a make to recommend?

Dafydd   WW.
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 127
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 18:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

It the locking wheel nuts on yours are like mine in that the outside of the lockbolt  spins freely so that  thieves can not hammer a AF socket on and undo it , if it spins freely on the out side of the bolt you will have a harder job removing it ,
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 127
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 18:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could look on you tube to see how to remove the type of looking bolts that you have ,
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Dafydd Wynn Williams
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
Posts: 69
Location: 3 miles south of Bangor North Wales

PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 20:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

No mine are solid, the top has a multi pointed star recession, and the 'undoing' key bolt has a mating star-shaped protrusion. As I said, the two mating shapes slip out of locating position when you apply turning pressure.  It is difficult/impossible (single handed) to apply inward pressure to the key bolt while at the same time trying to turn the wheel brace or socket wrench with a tube extender.

If I could find some way of applying sideways pressure, the key bold might still achieve loosening.

Dafydd   WW
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 127
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 21:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the outside of the looking bolt is solid and does not spin freely your in luck , you need to find a AF 12 point socket half inch drive that is slightly smaller do that you have to hammer it on , make sure it is hammered on tight  then with a long breaker bar undo the socket that is tightly hammered on the outside of the locking bolt , I hsve seen it done on you tube and have been told by people I know that it works ,hope that helps solve your problem
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Dafydd Wynn Williams
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
Posts: 69
Location: 3 miles south of Bangor North Wales

PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 21:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I've just  watched some Utube videos, and will have a go at that tomorrow.  Hopefully will have a 12 point socket to fit.  I know that I have 22mm, 24mm, 25mm, & 26mm. the locking bolt is 25.75mm diam

I'll let you know of my progress.

Dafydd   WW
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 105
Location: North West

PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2021 22:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure Tony's idea of hammering on a socket will sort you out!

So is the 'key' broken, or is the nut on too tight?

My locking wheel nuts spin on the outside like Tony's - I wonder why yours are different?

They're all a pain in the *beep* if you ask me, I hate them all!
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Dafydd Wynn Williams
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
Posts: 69
Location: 3 miles south of Bangor North Wales

PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn & blast.  After both TonyCY11 and Karl saying their locking bolts had spinning outers I thought I better check, only to found mine are the same. I had not noticed this, but on checking one of the locking bolts already removed, with a little effort to overcome undoubted corrosion, the outer sleeves spun with ease. Apologies for misleading.

Back to square one, will have to wait until l can get help to exert sideways force while using the 'key' bolt to loosen the locking bolt.  The 'key' is intact but I think probably slightly damaged from the number of times it has slipped out in unsuccessful attempts.

Drizzling again today, as it was all day yesterday despite a dry forecast.

Dafydd   WW
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 105
Location: North West

PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 11:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't you get the cruiser near a wall and wedge a bit of wood in to press on the key?
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 127
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 11:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its strange how the key socket keeps cumming out while you turn the bolt , make sure there is no dirt in your wheel nut bolt that its not letting the bolt key get in deep enough in its slot so as to turn the locking nut bolt ,
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Dafydd Wynn Williams
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
Posts: 69
Location: 3 miles south of Bangor North Wales

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2021 10:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have arranged with the village garage to MIG weld a 14mm nut onto the stubborn locking bolt next Fri. I have a MIG welder myself but am physically unable to tackle something so close to the ground.

This raises several points :-
a.  is it advisable to disconnect the batteries to avoid damage to electrical systems ?
b.  will disconnecting the batteries 'lockout' some electric systems, like the radio etc?
c.  should a separate grounding connection to the vehicle be provided before commencing electric welding?

Advice please.

Dafydd   WW
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 264
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2021 13:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dafydd, I have the solid type bolts on my 120, interesting different types were fitted. Mine I think are original as the Toyota plastic box with the 'key' in it.

Welding, can't give a definitive answer apart from
)1 some do and some dont.
)2 disconnection, If you have stock radio, no but you will have to get the electric windows to re learn. Cycle each window on their individual switches to sync with all switches on drivers door.
)3 the electric welder has its own ground applied to the job, but your garage welder should be able to advise on 1 and 3 anyway.
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 127
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2021 18:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your going to have a 14mm nut welded on , if I were you I would have something bigger welded on top of that with the hollow part of the 14 mm nut will give it a good strong base to weld onto , like a 21mm or even bigger where you can get some high torque on it incase it it on rearlly tight , coz I think 14mm is way too small if you need to put say 120 Nm or even more to undo it , which is what is likly to be needed , as the standard torque for the wheels is 113Nm , and if the locking nut was last put on by a cowboy with a high torque rattle gun it will be tight and thats why it probably damaged the shape of the patten on the locknut and made it slack and the key bolt just slips off ,
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Dafydd Wynn Williams
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
Posts: 69
Location: 3 miles south of Bangor North Wales

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2021 21:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

The external diameter of the Key is 25.75mm, and I was loath to exceed this with the 'welded on' nut for fear of binding with the recess of the wheel otherwise I would have chosen a 16mm nut, but the measurement across the points of that would be 26mm.  So chose the safe bet of a 14mm nut.  The solid part of the head of the locking bolt which is the only part that can be welded to/on is 17mm diam.

If the 14mm nut should shear off then we may try a 16mm nut.

The socket size of the normal and locking bolts is 21mm, the same as a 14mm nut.

Dafydd   WW
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 105
Location: North West

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2021 21:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just glad you're not doing this at the side of the road!
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