The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[busaboy]

Just towed this from the Midlands to Southampton to stay in for a while as i move house.
Towed great but was missing a little power on the motorway hills so intercooler and exhaust mods coming up i think.






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1995 4.2 80 Series VX 24 valve, manual. 285/75 - 16 BFG Muds, Ironman +2", TJM Winch Bumper with T-Max Winch, Safari Snorkel, Superpro poly bush kit.
SOLD TO AFRICA
100 Series now on the drive

[Google]

[uk_vette]

Hello,

The 4,2 missing power ?

How much does a standard 4,2 develop ?

'vette

[busaboy]

Not sure as standard. Up to 50mph not too much of a problem as gear changes take care of things. It's just when you have to maintain a bit of top end power with wind and gravity against you.
She is due for a pump service soon when i get my new company car and can be off the road for a bit as i know the injectors were done before i bought it.
Still an amazing car for 250,000 miles and no oil or water use.
_________________
1995 4.2 80 Series VX 24 valve, manual. 285/75 - 16 BFG Muds, Ironman +2", TJM Winch Bumper with T-Max Winch, Safari Snorkel, Superpro poly bush kit.
SOLD TO AFRICA
100 Series now on the drive

[Desperatezulu]

Welcome down South finally, Busa!

It sounds like your problem might be that your (under) gearing is working against you. Remember the 285 tyres reduce your gearing by something like 5.5% - not much of an issue with no load and at lower speeds but at high speeds and with a load, then the engine will start to gasp a bit and you will feel it  Also the MTs add to the rolling resistance, the bullbar (and goodies hanging of it!) and the lift increases the drag coefficient quite a lot too! No wonder it wasn't quite as nippy as usual  

If you are planning on towing a lot, it might be an idea to get a spare set of standard 275/70 tyres - or regear and keep the 285s (big £££ though!). I am sure your cruiser will pull that bloody great 'van quite happily then!

To answer Vette's question, the 4.2 (HD-FT) officially produces about 168hp I believe.

Cheers,
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Andrew

'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v

[Wandering Willy]

I've got a 3.5 ton horse box to move around and I agree with you that there isn't a lot of power below 50 mph My LC is a 100 series automatic diesel. It's got an intercooler, electronically controlled injection and 24 valves. It has done 65,000 miles. Because of the electronics, I am reluctant to tinker with the settings. However...

As others here have indicated, there are several things that will help. I'd like to make a plea for giving the engine a general going over. Anything that's not quite 100% reduces power, may cause damage and increases fuel consumption so you can come out of doing this work saving money.

On the engine, the valve tappet settings should be checked and re-set to the correct clearances. Replacing the air filter with a nice new one isn't cheap (it's only paper, right!) but the improved air flow will help the engine and turbo a lot. Similarly, a new fuel filter will ensure that the fuel supply is not restricted. This is important if you intend tweaking the injection pump settings. Check the turbo boost setting to make sure that it is still performing as expected. It should be but it does no harm to check.

If you change the timing belt, check that the camshaft is set to the correct position relative to the crank. It's not unknown to have the cam out of line by a tooth or two. There are TDC marks on both (slots in the relevant pulleys to line up with the belt off).

All this sort of thing is just normal maintenance but can get left. If it only loses you 5 HP, it's the difference between sailing up hills and struggling.

As a final plea, clean out the cooling system and fit a new thermostat. That helps the engine warm up quickly and stay cool when it is working hard.

Once you have done these jobs, you can think about increasing the boost and fuel feed, fitting a shorter, bigger diameter exhaust and possibly fitting or increasing the size of the intercooler (expensive and may not do much most of the time). But these improvements cost lots of money and can do more harm than good if the engine has a basic fault (something not working properly).

If your car has an intercooler, it would be worth cleaning it. It is amazing how many flies decide to give up on the front of it!

The reason for leaving the intercooler till last is that in the UK our ambient temperature is low relative to places like Australia and Morocco so the air is cool The compressed air from the turbochager is then cooled well because the intercooler is being blasted by cool air as well. If you are worried about this, fit a bigger one but it may not make a lot of difference.

Another trick is to fit a water spray into the inlet manifold. You can get kits to do this. As they are only used for brief periods (accelerating, hills) you don't need to carry a lot of water. But again, it may not do much most of the time.

http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?feature_key=diesel

http://www.snowperformance.net/products.php?p_cat=301

Good luck

Willy

[uk_vette]

[Ecky Thump]

[Ecky Thump]

Bussaboy

I'm sure you've seen this photo before

I never had any issues towing and my 80 goes like hell. Maybe it was worked on before I had it or maybe i'm just lucky.
I don't have an intercooler, but I would like one



Seems to tow far better than my V8 Disco ever did.
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Les
TLOCUKSB Member No.80
1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)

[uk_vette]

[Ecky Thump]

I know a few people who knock my exhaust for being too noisy but the amount of extra power it released is amazing.

The turbo lag is only half of what it was and the acceleration has improved.
Not sure when towing as we have got rid of the caravan now.
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Les
TLOCUKSB Member No.80
1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)

[shaun]

hi,i know i'm here with the big guys so be gentle
i have a1997 lwb prado 3.0td auto and i tow a twin axle 2004 lunar(26ft shipping length) mgm weight is 1660kgs,probably  a bit more with all the stuff we ram in it, also roof rack with bikes on,awnig,fishing gear etc,any way i have had no bother at all towing, it sits at 60 mph at 2000 revs and i can then accelerate past however many cars/trucks and nip back in with any hassle at all and i think mine is only something 130-140 bhp,as i have heard it's the torque you use when towing etc???. personally i would think a 4.2 would have ample left over even with a caravan in tow.
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"ANGEE" it needs hoovered out again

[Ecky Thump]

Shaun

I think it has a lot to do with age, mileage and how they have been looked after in their previous life.
A lot of people say they are driving a new truck after Julian etc have played with the fueling.
I have just been lucky, I've had mine five years and it was low mileage and cracking condition when I got it.

Yours should do well because you are half a ton lighter which makes your bhp/ton figure better than ours.
Torque is the main thing when doing a standing start or accelerating but once at speed it is the bhp/ton that matters.

When I was coach driving the coaches batteries would fail in winter and i've tow started quite a few at 11.5 to 15 tons.
That is where torque and vehicle weight really count.
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Les
TLOCUKSB Member No.80
1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)

[jvoelcker]

I find that the power/torque on most 80s tend to vary quite considerably either through a complete lack of servicing of things like injectors/IP/valves or poorly setup fuelling.

Also, one of the other big problem areas is poorly setup gearbox (on autos) so the gear changes are al over the place.

As Willy has said, if you are trying to diagnose poor performance issues, the key thing is start with a well serviced engine....

Fit new air and fuel filters and put some decent oil in it.

Get the valves checked - these are often neglected - these are set with shims on 12valvers and are tappets on 24valvers in the 80 and 100s.

Get the injectors cleaned up and tested and serviced.

Get  the injection pump serviced and checked, but be aware that these are usually set to factory defaults based on a pressurised delivery of fuel - once back on the truck the IP has to suck the fuel from the tank and depending on it's age may be struggling a bit so you may need to up the fuelling a to compensate OR....

Fit something like an electric Walbro pusher pump down near the tank to push the fuel to the IP - this releives some of the load on the IP and ensures a more consistent fuel delivery across the rev range.

Get the turbo boost checked to ensure it is operating within the correct parrameters - this can safely be increased a little bit which along with suitable pump tweaks can help things along a bit.

You can also tweak specific areas of the fuelling to iron out flat spots - this can make quite a dramatic difference to the way the truck runs.

Next consider improving the exhaust side of things - either replace the whole system with a 2.5" or 3" mandrel bent system or if you are on a budget find someone locally to cut out the large central box and replace it with a straight bit of pipe - this box is quite restrictive and once removed greatly improves turbo spin up/low down power without being too noisy - actually it sounds pretty good

Once you have done all that, and if you aren't satisfied, then consider going the next step and fitting an intercooler and increasing the fuelling and turbo boost to get the most out of it.


I've done most of the above (in a different order) and my 80 goes better than any of the others I have driven although it is still lacking a bit of oomph so the next thing on the list is to fit the Walbro lifter pump which will improve things further and I also need to tweak the fuelling to reduce it a bit in the 1000-1800rpm range (in the excitement of fitting the intercooler I just upped the overall fuelling rather than tweaking specific areas resulting in it being overfuelled pre turbo boost where the intercooler isn't having such a great effect) - actually fitting the Walbro will necessitate re-tweaking the fuelling anyway.

As you strive for more power don't forget to look at improving the braking side of things, which tends to be pretty poor most of the time.  I've got a full set of groved performance disks and stainless steel brake lines to go on with the Walbro.

Also, if you have an auto, consider fitting an oil cooler - as you put more power through the torque convertor the auto box temps will rise so you need to consider doing something about this.  If you can afford it also go for an Extreme Valve Body - this will sharpen up the gear changes as well as improve the oil flow helping to reduce gearbox temps further.


And after all than, if you still aren't happy, flog the 80 and get a 100 series and fit a chip to it giving you 245bhp/500Nm torque - on my shopping list for later this year
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Cheers,

Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs.

[gordini911]

Hi busaboy.

Go and see Julian, you won't regret it.He has just adjusted my engine and it runs much sweeter, more responsive,and dare I say it 5% more power from a standard engine.You can chat on here forever or go and get it sorted .

Regards Keith.
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1997 4.2 TD. GX Manual. voelcker tune.

[busaboy]

No thanks, and no offence to Julian but i do all my own engine work.
_________________
1995 4.2 80 Series VX 24 valve, manual. 285/75 - 16 BFG Muds, Ironman +2", TJM Winch Bumper with T-Max Winch, Safari Snorkel, Superpro poly bush kit.
SOLD TO AFRICA
100 Series now on the drive