The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[Mike Oz]

Hey. I'm looking for buying advice on a second hand FJ 62 dual fuelled LPG/Petrol 4.0 ltr engine year 1985
I know very little about cars in general but looking to buy a 4WD.
She has 310,000 km on the clock. The following work has recently been done; carburettor and fuel pump ( may 2011), rear diff centre (oct 2011).
10 year gas tank certificate made in nov 2011
Exhaust repaired in January 2012
Previous owner reconditioned cylinder head at 250.000kms
I haven't approached the seller yet and would like to know what I should be looking out for in this cruiser. What work should have been done on a cruiser of this age?
Any help would be great.
Thanks in advance,
Mike

[Google]

[roscoFJ73]

Hi Mike These were great 4wds in their day and fuel was cheap in 1985,now it will cost an arm and a leg to run it,even on lpg.
One of the problems they have is that being an old school motor ,they dont have a computer. As the LPG and petrol require a different setting in the distributor for each fuel ,you can never get the engine to run well on both fuels.
If the price is good and you only want it for weekend fun ,then maybe its for you.
If you need to o long distances ,then a HJ60 with the 2H diesel might be better,its no powerhouse though.

Things to check.
RUST. These tend to rust EVERYWHERE if you dont look after them.
It is usually worse in the roof around the gutters and around the wheel arches.

MECHANICAL.

Engine.These are based on a 1940s chev engine that has had many improvements in its life. It should start easy,cold or warm and run clean and smooth.
Ask if a valve adjustment has been done.
New carb is a good sign the owner cared for it .
Check for oil leaks where the engine and gearbox meets.If its leaking it means the gearbox has to be removed to fit a new rear main oil seal.
Other oil leaks are generally easy to fix. They are rarely 100% leak free at any one time.


The front axle on these needs servicing every 4-5 years.It mainly involves the seals that stop the grease from mixing with the diff oil.
If you cant do it yourself,allow for about $1500 minimum.
Other things in the front to check are the tie rod ends,usually the steering will clunk as well as the steering damper.

Brakes. If they havent been done, it can get expensive paying someone to do it. Listen for squeaks and check the handbrake.

Gearbox.The 5 sp are stiff and clunky when cold but they should shift smoothly after 10 mins of driving.
If they dont it will mean worn synchroes,this means a complete strip down and $4000.
Watch for jumping out of gear in 5th.

Transfer cases can be tricky. Listen for rumbling at 80kph.Look for oil leaks on the output shafts.

Suspension. If its flattened out,with leaves separating and rides rough,its another $2000+ to fix. Leaf packs also clunk sometimes when old and sometimes new.

Didnt you ask for some advice on this forum once before?
_________________
1995 HZJ75 troop carrier
1988 FJ73 with 1HZ diesel conversion.
1995 HZJ75  cab chassis
Holden Commodore V6
YAMAHA TT600R Belgarda
Triumph Rocket3 08 with Jardines and Tuneboy
Honda XR650L
1988 HJ61 turbo diesel with windas that slide  

[Benny]

Hi all,According to me these is not a big problem and don,t you worried about this problem.These are based on a 1940s chev engine that has had many improvements in its life. It should start easy,cold or warm and run clean and smooth.

[Benny]

Hi all,According to me these is not a big problem and don,t you worried about this problem.These are based on a 1940s chev engine that has had many improvements in its life. It should start easy,cold or warm and run clean and smooth.

[Benny]

keep it up