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Fitting EGR plate

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mawdsk
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Joined: 21 May 2018
Posts: 11
Location: Southport UK

PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2021 9:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the replies. I’m talking litres not mils 😁 probably 5 litres every 3 months ish (maths give a litre every 400 miles for that) and I only do about 8k a year. There is big plumes of blue smoke on start up and drive away clears up in half a mile. Black smoke on booting it but I feel that there maybe blue in there too! Ive a gut feeling its the turbo bus as its a sod to get to i’ve not gone any further. Cant even check end float unless anyone has a miracle way of doing that?

Engine starts in a blink and ticks over smooth.

I’m on the Facebook group but decided it’s too varied so come back to the good old fashioned bb 😎
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2021 9:25    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2021 13:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black smoke is a sure sign of over fueling ,    if your engine is still on the original injectors  the injectors at that mileage  will be very worn and are over fueling hence the black smoke , also that the injector washer seals and O ring that stops the oil getting further down the oil gallery will be eroded and the O ring burnt from the blow by , and that oil in the cam shaft area that goes down to the injector top half to cool it down is getting past the O ring and into the engine hence the blue smoke , both your systems go hand in hand , and if this is the case the carbon coming from the combustion will soon block up your oil pickup as it circulates in the engine oil  and very soon starve the engine of oil which will kill your engine , And a sure way of finding this out is drop the engine oil and look up the oil drain plug (some thing that all folk with a 1KD engine should do after every oil change  before putting the sump plug back in after the engine oil has fully drained  ) and check with a torch if the oil pickup which is visible 1 inch away above the drain hole , look to see if the oil pickup strainer is covered in black carbon sludge , because it should be clear and look like a  metal tea strainer or flour strainer , if it is blocked you need to act asap , and same with the injectors if they are badly over fueling you will end up with one or more cracked pistons , you can check if  your injectors are worn with a tech stream system or take it to a diesel injector specialist  or a toyota dealer . sorry to have to tell you this ,
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2021 14:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

As ever, great advice from Tony. If I could add,  if you can drop the oil and leave overnight, so there are no drips in your eye, or as per Karl use your phone and take a pic up the drain hole, or better still from Karl use an endoscope thingy to look inside. These are great for any other hard to see areas like combustion chambers when injectors are pulled etc or more recently inside chassis members when checking for rust. Perfick !!
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mawdsk
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Joined: 21 May 2018
Posts: 11
Location: Southport UK

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 18:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

TONYCY11 wrote:
Black smoke is a sure sign of over fueling ,    if your engine is still on the original injectors  the injectors at that mileage  will be very worn and are over fueling hence the black smoke , also that the injector washer seals and O ring that stops the oil getting further down the oil gallery will be eroded and the O ring burnt from the blow by , and that oil in the cam shaft area that goes down to the injector top half to cool it down is getting past the O ring and into the engine hence the blue smoke , both your systems go hand in hand , and if this is the case the carbon coming from the combustion will soon block up your oil pickup as it circulates in the engine oil  and very soon starve the engine of oil which will kill your engine , And a sure way of finding this out is drop the engine oil and look up the oil drain plug (some thing that all folk with a 1KD engine should do after every oil change  before putting the sump plug back in after the engine oil has fully drained  ) and check with a torch if the oil pickup which is visible 1 inch away above the drain hole , look to see if the oil pickup strainer is covered in black carbon sludge , because it should be clear and look like a  metal tea strainer or flour strainer , if it is blocked you need to act asap , and same with the injectors if they are badly over fueling you will end up with one or more cracked pistons , you can check if  your injectors are worn with a tech stream system or take it to a diesel injector specialist  or a toyota dealer . sorry to have to tell you this ,


Thanks, need to find my receipts, I pulled the injectors when I got it about 3 years ago to check the seats and they were aluminium so ended up putting new ones in anyway. Cant remember if I fitted new O rings but yes injectors probably could do with a refurb.

Tractionman wrote:
As ever, great advice from Tony. If I could add,  if you can drop the oil and leave overnight, so there are no drips in your eye, or as per Karl use your phone and take a pic up the drain hole, or better still from Karl use an endoscope thingy to look inside. These are great for any other hard to see areas like combustion chambers when injectors are pulled etc or more recently inside chassis members when checking for rust. Perfick !!


I also dropped the sump when I got it and the strainer was thick, a lot of it was silicone from the camcover that they had glued back on. So yes will have to re-check that as also the top end seems noisy until the engine warms up.
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 18:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

It best put new O rings on injectors whenever the injectors are removed just like the injector  seats , the injector seats are actually made of copper with a silver coating on them to make them more durable , but the O rings  should be changed also when removing injectors because the O rings harden with age dealing with such high temps for high miles the O ring will  have hardened with age and with the injector removed then as you reinstall the injector and  push slide the injector back down in the hardened less flexible O ring can slide out of its grove at an angle and not be able to do its job for long and will soon give way , its good practice to use new injector pipes also when fitting new injectors and new injector pipe rubber nozzles (they are the rubber seals that stop oil leaking out at the injector pipe connection at the injector ) due to the risk of dirt contamination into the injectors , its also good practice to fit new fuel return double washer seals ( 5 of them ) at the back of the injectors where the fuel returns back as they are a once use item also . you can get new (not recon ) genuine denso injectors from pfJones.co.uk for about 240 quid each or even less for the older Lc120s 1KD-FTV , First thing I would do right away is drop the oil and look up the oil drain to see if the oil pickup is blocked , hope this helps .
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 19:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS also make sure you clean the injector ports to a mirror like Finnish before installing the injectors  so that the injector seat washers make a perfect seal for many miles ,  any dirt even tiny specs in the ports stop the seat washers for seating properly and vastly shortens their sealing performance and erode away much quicker and allow blow by much sooner than they should .
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 20:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

P.F. Jones has had bad reports supplying wrong parts, and poor customer support.
D.I.S. Diesel Injection Services come highly recommended for refurb and new genuine Denso at favourable prices. Well worth comparing.
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 21:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats good to know tractionman , thanks for ypur info😃
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 21:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

👍someone known to us had the bad experience Tony, and another had the good. Recommendations are always good to go on.😀
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mawdsk
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Joined: 21 May 2018
Posts: 11
Location: Southport UK

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2021 21:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies, much better on here than the facebook group!

I pulled my receipt from Toyota and yes I did do the O rings, basically ordered everything on the Toyota service diagram marked as replace. Didn't replace any fuel pipes though as originally Toyota listed them as replace every time and changed to every so often. Some had been replaced by toyota under an earlier owner. Yes there is data on Toyotas online customer login!

I think I'll get my mate to quote for refurb the injectors, drop the sump, drop the turbo and compression test. Should cover must aspects, then it leaves the valve stems.
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2021 21:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farcebook, who the **** are they ? 🤐  TBH mate, there is, as you've found, no comparison. On here there are a diverse group of people that live and breath landcruisers, sometimes owning more than one or several in a row, servicing and repairing them as neccessary., not anyone's Uncle Sid who had one, or someone who knows someone down the pub who's got one.🤔
When someone comes on and problems arise and are solved, with input from various people and the results shared, its like a big library under one roof. Youve achieved quite a lot there yourself, good luck with injectors etc. 😀😀
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2021 7:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

😃😃
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Ibex
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Joined: 21 Mar 2019
Posts: 73
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 18:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

TONYCY11 wrote:
Without a ozbush device or similar egr delete system a 7mm hole will be OK , I have a full blanking plate (no hole ) due to having a ozbush mapper that includes egr delete , what I did find was with the egr valve shut and blanked  or just blanked with the 7mm hole there is  a small power gain , but  the throttle body type unit has a butterfly that restricts in coming cool fresh air so that the engine has to suck in exhaust through the egr valve , so with the butterfly restricting the incoming fresh cool air at cruising speeds and part throttle as the ecu tells it to at all times apart from full throttle , so I did a experiment and removed the butterfly as it is held in by 2 screws that are stamped at the back so that they can not undo on there own and get sucked into the engine , so I drilled them out very easy to do , and boy what difference , a fantastic throttle response and power gain instantly at low revs as if you have flowed the pedal ( this is with a auto trans dont know about a manual ) and much better fuel economy because the auto box changes up sooner due to more power and torque , this power gain is helped also by venting the pcv to air piped into a oil catch can and out across the top of engine bay and then down the passenger side to the belly of the 120 so the is does not make its way into the cars interior , so that this hot pvc gas that is very low in oxygen is not sucked into the turbo to be fed back into the engine , so my 120 only breaths in cool fresh air rich in oxygen which gives it a much better throttle response , the only tiny drawback (it does not bother me ) instant shut down when you turn the engine off , but you only notice that if the engine is cold so on a high tick over , when fully warmed up after a run you can not notice it .


I would just like to say that I have embodied Tony's mod of removing the butterfly in the throttle body today and happily endorse his findings. The car soars up a hill near my home quite effortlessly without much throttle where previously you knew it was a hill! I still need to find a final position for the oil catch can but will do that in slower time - I was too keen to get out and road test! Much livelier throttle response and I await with interest the economy figures.
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 18:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice feedback Ibex. You can always depend on Tony's advice, he knows these 120'/d4d's inside out, and wont recommend anything he hasn't done himself.
His catch can is o/side corner near brake fluid/brake booster.
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 20:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tony keeps giving us a list of jobs, now he needs to send the weather so we can have a crack at them!!! Smile
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