The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[TONYCY11]

you should always wait for the glow plug light to switch off before starting the engine , no doubt you know this already after its been left a while like over night

[Google]

[timbo]

Do you know how pressure is developed, as I understand it, the pump sucks fuel from the tank, excess being returned under low pressure,  strangely, I have had this car 14 years and have never waited for the glow plug light to go out, it has always started on 1 or 2 bananas!
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[TONYCY11]

Because you say the engine runs fine after it is started leads me to think it is the weak batteries that are not spinning the engine over , how old are the batteries , I have tried leaving the fuel cap off for 1 hour and it started fine on my 120 but I got a engine light come up , so it wont be because of the Evap system air leak that is the longer cranking to start that you have , most other reasons for longer time to start would also give engine running symptoms , and glow plugs on theses cars are not known to fail . is your fuel filter clean and if your injectors and scv are still original and never been changed are likely to need replacement as well as the injector seals will likely need replacing as they will leak combustion and block your oil pick up in the sump ,  as well as a egr and inlet tract will need cleaning as it will be likely to be bunged up as well as the map filter will need changing as they crack with age and give a wrong reading to the map sensor . these cars are reliable and durable but after 18 years will need such maintenance that I have listed above for sure .

[timbo]

engine runs fine which leads me to think injectors etc are fine, mine is an early car which didnt suffer the injector seals problem, I have inspected the pick up pipe and its as clean as a whistle. I cant see how any of these things could cause a time related starting issue. The engine seems to spin over well. I must confess that the fuel filter hasnt been changed in a while though. I read a thread somewhere of a similar problem, to test it was fuel related he connect a can of fuel directly to the inlet of the fuel filter and it started perfectly. so there are a few things I can try. Ive been spannering for over 40 years and feel sure I'd recognise a battery issue. Thanks for your input so far.
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[karl2000]

Think Tony has said everything there, there is so much on this thread!

Sometimes the fuel filter housing can leak vacuum as well, especially if some hamfisted *beep* cross threads the filter, which happened on mine just before I bought it!

If you change the fuel filter you can check the seal at the same time.

SCV... has it ever been changed?  Is it the short one or the red/green pair?

To rule out the battery issue stick a hefty jump pack on it for additional umfff when you start it.

Be handy to get some decent diagnostics out of the thing!  Is the check engine light always on now?

[timbo]

Hi Karl2000, thanks for your reply, i dont think I'm familiar with a SCV, good call re the battery pack, CEL not on.
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[karl2000]

The SCV is on the high pressure pump; the older types are short and they were redesigned as longer ones to be more reliable.

Some info in these videos.  If you replace it, make sure you get the right one for your motor, as theres a few different types.

https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/search/suction-control-valve/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWfnlUCgcAo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iy79uqnrerY

[TONYCY11]

All 1KD engines will have injector seal issues after a length of time because they erode away with time no matter what age they were made , in fact the earlier ones with the copper seats that did not have the silver aluminum looking coating over them do not last as long as the later ones that have it . Toyota insist that the injector seals are changed every 40k miles when the inlet and exhaust valves gaps are inspected . What can happen if it is not the batteries or SCVs is if the egr is very built up with carbon badly it can cause the egr valve to stick in the open position making it a bit harder for the engine to start when the engine is cold , and also some people have had the electric valve thing on the fuel filter housing stick although that problem usually means the engine is difficult to start , when I cleaned out the EGR and inlet that goes to the manifold on my 120 at 69k miles I filled a cereal dish with Carbon sludge , so at 185k you should have a lot more than that in yours if it has never been cleaned . one easy quick thing you can try doing is clean your maf sensor with maf sensor cleaner , if it has not been done for a long while as it could have dirt on it that is causing the maf sensor giving the wrong reading .

[Tractionman]

're the maf sensor, although I had no trouble with mine, I cleaned it anyway. There was quite a bit of grime on it and it came up looking new. Call it preventative maintenance.
I didn't have sensor cleaner, so I used switch cleaner aerosol squirted in the lid, then gently over and over cleaned it all with cotton buds dipped in it.
Be very gentle if you do it this way, as it is a 'fragile' part.
As per Karl, the scv issue always seems to crop up eventually on these engines, and can give varied problems throughout, including poor or non starting. Injectors/seals have their own problems too, as per Tony.

[Dafydd Wynn Williams]

Referring to Tractionman's post earlier, advising not to renew only one battery rather than the pair, I have been cogitating on this (see my question on BATTERY iSOLATION earlier today) and wondering if I found that one battery seemed sound, was it a good idea just to replace the dud one?  At £90 each I didn't want to spend needlessly!

After a full recharge by charger, the pair loose about 0.3V a day standing.

Anyone else have any view on the folly of single replacement?

Dafydd   Wynn Williams,  2004 SWB 49K

[karl2000]

Hi Dafydd,

TM is spot on - don't replace one.  Because they are electrically wired in parallel, you want batteries of the same type the same capacity and preferably the same age.

One knackered battery will tend to pull the other one down, so you done want a brand new one and a half dodgy one.

If you really don't want the expense of two batteries, you can disconnect the parallel batteries and can actually start the truck on one battery - but it must be a big one.  However, on a cold morning, you might wish you had two.  If you leave your lights on for 3 hours, you will definitely wish you had two.  

Having said that, people do use one in the UK and its OK - usually because they want to use the other side for a leisure battery or something.

Personally I'd put a decent matched pair in and forget it for another 5 years....

[Tractionman]

If you do 1 now, you will be replacing both later on. Sure there is cost to be taken into consideration, but in simple economic terms,
buy 2 now, rather than what could be 3 later. Thats the 1 first purchased, then the 2 to replace those when that goes down.with the other original. Thats assuming 1 or even both your batteries are goosed.
The 0.3v you are looking at standing, is that with the batteries disconnected from each other and the lc ? If they are still connected, you have to take into account small drain for alarm/immobiliser if armed, and anything else you may have not switched through the ignition that may be 'on'. And of course, if 1 battery is not up to par, it could be leeching power from the other..

[wooly0000]

Hi Karl my fog lights weren't any easier I've had to book her into the garage to get it changed after struggling to get it out, ordered a new one for around £46, but a BIG thanks for the advice really appreciate it  

[Tractionman]

Wooly, you should have asked for a loan of Karl's BFH !
I've had 1 in the garage to replace for the last year, and never got around to it, I've had other challenges !!
At least yours is in hand.

[karl2000]

Wooly sorry to hear that mate, I just remember they were an absolute *beep*!

Toyota do have some daft designs sometimes dont they!  Good luck!