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Alarm and ignition also central locking

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modvrs
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Joined: 03 Oct 2013
Posts: 296
Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 18:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

From memory the immobiliser light is the red LED on the dash under the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Sorry this is a bit like pulling teeth.
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1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado 3.4VX
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 18:20    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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locodriver65
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Joined: 19 Apr 2009
Posts: 324
Location: WEST MIDLANDS UK

PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 10:26    Post subject: reply Reply with quote

Hi,
UP DATE.
yes you correct pulling teeth may be better,

There is a small panel where you said it was... But no light showing on it. I have never seen a light on it in 12 years.

I have purchased off the net an alarm immobilizer box from a colorado same part numbers etc..

Do you know if my truck would run without the box in place?

Regards

Paul
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modvrs
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Joined: 03 Oct 2013
Posts: 296
Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 12:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a pretty dim LED in an out-of-sight spot, I rarely notice mine unless I specifically look for it. Is it connected to the ECU?

Regarding an ECU change you may well be in for a load of pain; I don't know for sure but I think the ECU is coded to the chips in the keys and reprogramming them is equally fraught with difficulty. Also there are at least two versions of TVSS (Toyota security system). Here's a couple of links for versions III and IV that I've collected over the years.

https://mega.nz/file/kRRwzDKD#zEyczrN_JN7JbYvTseyVh4owarWVK13muowcq4-hmos
https://mega.nz/file/UIo2BKJQ#0RFBmTfWGITj1pzaeNYFUaLzdwLHr3lR4kWgvtNpRAs

If your key fob was working before I can't see why it can't be re-paired even if the immobiliser LED doesn't light up.
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modvrs
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 12:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty sure the car won't start if you remove the ECU altogether.
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locodriver65
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Joined: 19 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 14:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again,
Thanks for all your help.
I agree with you that it should be possible to pair the box to the fob. but when the button is held for 3 seconds it does not go to pairing mode.

The number one the box is 08190-00940   and 237000-1300-------TVSSIII B

Regards

Paul
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 15:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locodriver, before you do anything else, look on lcc forum 90 series. There is a thread on there about reprogramming fob by knicko.
The first part of that thread sounds exactly what you want. It goes into detail about the green reset light and location, and the procedure step by step to get your fob paired, it Is not just a case of pressing fob buttons.
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locodriver65
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 16:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi.
OK will do
I will let you know how I get on thanks
Paul
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locodriver65
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Joined: 19 Apr 2009
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Location: WEST MIDLANDS UK

PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 18:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys,
Well after messing about for hours the system started working again.
I took the fob apart and depressed both buttons for about 30 seconds to discharge any power ( this idea is in one or two posts) I was packing up for the day because it was getting dark. So closed all the doors and closed the bonnet. Just pressed lock on the fob and it worked. ( I had done this before with no luck)

I would like to thank you all for helping to sort this problem.

Regards

Paul
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Tractionman
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Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 18:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done for sticking with it, another 5 minute job done ?👍😁
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modvrs
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 19:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done for not just giving up. To go back to your original issue I've remembered one other reason apart from the disintegrating bonnet switch that caused false alarms for me; the glass break detector in the near side rear quarter panel (near the jack) came unstuck and therefore super sensitive. It's held on to the body with a sticky pad that loses its stickiness after twenty years.
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locodriver65
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Location: WEST MIDLANDS UK

PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2021 0:03    Post subject: reply Reply with quote

Hi
Thanks for the info on the bonnet switch. Mine looks OK at the moment. I will check the on the one by the jack tomorrow...

Regards

Paul
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