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New user hello and please advice on checking a used 95

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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
Posts: 116
Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 10:56    Post subject: New user hello and please advice on checking a used 95 Reply with quote

Hello all, new user here,
Looking to become a proud owner of a 95 soon…
I am looking on advice of checks when viewing a used 95 please.
I’m fairly mechanically clued up but would appreciate some tips…
I will be inspecting a 2001 Colorado 3.4 petrol later this week.
One owner since new and serviced regularly every 10000miles or so. It has 160000miles verified from mot history.
Has had a new exhaust fitted recently and in 2020 had the auto transmission rebuilt, and a new rad at the same time. Having heard stories of rad corrosion leading to coolant in the transmission I asked but was told the transmission was grinding and at the same time a small leak was detected in the rad so was changed at the same time but no contamination ever happened in the gearbox.
Reason for selling was stated as purchasing a new vehicle…after 20 years sounds plausible.
Price is reasonable without being a total bargain.
What checks should I not miss?
Of course planning on checking fluid levels, any leaks/streaks, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Also when test driving anything specific to look out for? Planning to drive long enough to get engine at good running temperature and test 4x4 and lockers (any tips to check effective engagement without lifting the vehicle?)
Chassis and underside and sills seems to be in good condition with no obvious rust, will tap with rubber mallet to feel any flaking inside. Also no underselling so nothing should be hidden…hopefully

Just looking for advice to get a sweet melon and not a bitter lemon 😅
Thanks in advance
Marco
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 10:56    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Vagabond
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Joined: 03 Dec 2004
Posts: 455
Location: Watford, HERTS

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 14:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check for rust underneath - especially round the rear axle, chassis and suspension mounts etc.

I must admit that when I hear of an autobox rebuild in conjunction with a new radiator - it just screams ATF contamination* to me. Also if it's had a new exhaust, would be worth checking whether it's a stainless system, AFAIK the only replacement exhausts for the 3.4V6 were either OEM from Toyota or custom. (Though the replacement 3.0TD exhaust was widely available and could be cannibalised and modified to fit)

Check for rust underneath - especially round the rear axle, chassis and suspension mounts etc.

*If you didn't know already, this is usually caused by the ATF cooler inside the main radiator leaking and then coolant mixing with the ATF, which in turn causes gearbox issues. Having said that, if it's all been repaired properly, then that should be OK.

Good luck.

P.S. Did I mention check for rust  especially round the rear axle, chassis and suspension mounts etc. Wink
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'97 VZJ95 - Colorado 3.4V6 with LPG, 40mm Ironman SL, full SS exhaust, 265/75R16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s on 80 alloys and 195k+
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
Posts: 116
Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 15:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the reply Vagabond, really appreciated!
Agree about the alarm bells Rohingya hearing of rad change at the same time as a gearbox rebuild…
I suppose it would also be the time when the rad would be checked when plumbing the rebuilt gearbox so hopefully could be that a drip was found and rad changed because of that…but I want to buy with my head not with my hopes of course.
If there indeed had been an ATF contamination would that imply long lasting damage to the transmission even if rebuilt? Hope it’s not a “how long is a piece of string?” Type of question…

Yes will be checking for rust thoroughly… from pictures it looked clean, only surface rust on the fuel tank but even there pretty minor. No mot advisories for corrosion either so knowing how overzealous they can be that’s some hope there.

From what I read 160000miles is not too bad with clear service history?
Thanks again,
Marco

Oh and I will check for rust…got that message 🤣
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
Posts: 116
Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 15:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to add, exhaust was from “mr Exhaust” center box and rear box and looks like it should be stainless. That was done more recently
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modvrs
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Joined: 03 Oct 2013
Posts: 294
Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 18:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with everybody else about the gearbox and would strongly suspect it was coolant contamination; they're pretty robust in all other respects. Also agree about corrosion from the centre of the vehicle backwards - don't trust the MOT comments as there are many ways to get a clear bill of health. Mine rusted in the inner sills at various points and outer sills at the rear (you can't see the outer sills as they're hidden by plastic covers. I repaired large sections of rear chassis last year; it rusted from the inside out and for a long time looked OK, check inside the various holes in the chassis for internal corrosion. The rear diff lock will probably have rotted away unless it's either been replaced or meticulously maintained.

Enginewise they are great; I have the 3.4 petrol which has returned 19mpg average over ten years, can just manage 23mpg on a long run but I'm mainly on short runs. E10 is incompatible for pre-1998 according to Toyota. Check the cam covers for oil leaks as the gaskets harden as do the seals around the spark plug tubes. Replaced mine last year with a kit from Rock Auto in the USA. Cam belt is due at 60000 miles but it is a substantial piece of kit and the engine is non-interference so there should be no damage if it lets go.

Other odd issues to check are seatbelts (notorious for slow retraction), heated seat elements can break (if fitted), rear load cover is usually missing, lower front ball joints are a poor design and can fail without much notice with the wheel collapsing.

Good luck.
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1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado 3.4VX
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 20:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you modvrs really appreciate a bit of advice from experience!

Agree about gearbox rebuild and rad change.
Is a rebuilt auto box to be considered pretty reliable after a contamination if sorted properly?
I’ve seen the paperwork and was a 2.5k bill…

Point really driven home about rust, I will make sure to bring a torch to check in any chassis holes and tap all box sections and sills to try and determine inside rot. Will try and look under plastic trims wherever possible.

Will check for leaks and seepage from seals.
What kind of mileage did yours have when you needed new gaskets and seals?
Seals sound ok jobs, head gasket is always intimidating and/or expensive!

Thank you 🙏
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modvrs
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Joined: 03 Oct 2013
Posts: 294
Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 20:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be a proper job for £2.5k. Mine is on 198,000 miles and runs great (hope that's not cursed it!). Minor engine oil leak has been on the MOT advisories since I bought it ten years ago, it's never dripped on the drive and the level hasn't dropped between oil changes, I just decided to do it to get it off the list.

I saw the other day that there are only 200 petrol VX models left on the road and 93 on SORN, almost a rare classic now. I think it is mainly rust that kills them off unfortunately.
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modvrs
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Joined: 03 Oct 2013
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Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 21:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was trying hard to think of problems I've had with the engine and the minor leak was the only one that came up! And I didn't really need to fix it.
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 21:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds really good.
Honestly had not realised there are so few still on the road…getting rare indeed. I suppose they will last longer in dry parts of the world…
I’m hopeful about the truck I’m going to see but don’t want to get too excited. One owner and good service history sounds great but rust will be checked!

Agree that mot checks and advisories are to be taken with a pinch of salt…just hope it’s a good starting point! Fingers crossed!
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locodriver65
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Joined: 19 Apr 2009
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Location: WEST MIDLANDS UK

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 9:50    Post subject: reply Reply with quote

Hi and welcome.

If you want to check the diff locks. Drive onto a field or gravel area, select low range and diff lock. Drive in a circle and you will feel the tyres slipping on the ground. DO NOT DO THIS ON TARMAC.

To go back to normal drive. select high range, and switch off diff lock.

You may need to mess about a bit to get the gears to free up. I would move back and forth with some opposite lock. This normally works.


regards

Paul.
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MikeJak
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 12:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice Locodriver,
Yes definitely won’t be doing it on tarmac, had 4x4 before so know about transmission windup…but fair point to mention to a new user! Am I right thinking that being a full time 4x4 slippage should happen both in HL as in LL and would show that the central lock is engaging?
I suppose no way to check the engagement of rear locker without getting the rear axle off the ground…will have to trust the dash light and solenoid engaging noise?
Thanks again to all, really good tips…should see the truck tomorrow… fingers crossed!
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diggerdave
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Joined: 03 Oct 2014
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Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 13:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless it's been replaced, your rear locker will almost certainly have corroded away into rust and dust. When you turn it on the light will flash on the dashboard if it is FUBARed. If it's working the light will be solid. It only works in LL. Don't worry about it not working. I ran mine for some years before I tackled it. It's nice to have a rear locker but not essential. There are plenty of threads here and elsewhere if you want to tackle the job and there are some potential pitfalls when removing the old knackered one.

You're right about HL, but I don't think I've ever used HL! Unlike the rear difflock, it's a fully mechanical system so if the centre diff locks in LL, it will almost certainly work in HL. I've never heard of the centre diff not working. If you can't test it on a loose surface then it's OK to use the lever to engage it and drive in a straight line. You won't feel any difference of course but if the transfer lever works OK and the dashboard light comes on the chances are that the centre diff is working correctly. (The indicator light works from a simple plunger switch bolted onto the transfer box that operates when the requisite bits line up correctly inside so, while not foolproof, it's a fairly relable sign that it's working.)
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diggerdave
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Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 14:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should add that the indicator light for the rear difflock is also a simple plunger type that only actuates when the difflok engages with the rear diff, so although its not easy to phsically actually test the operation of the difflock if the light comes on (solid) there's a fair chance that it's working. It's just unlikely!
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MikeJak
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 16:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Diggerdave, really appreciate the advice. I read a couple of treads about the rear diff lock, and I’m not overly worried by the potential job but yes, it is nice to have and would be great to find out it had already been looked after… from what I understand is the actuator that rusts off while the diff and locking system are not compromised…
Will test and see.
Fantastic to hear that the lights on the dash are fairly reliable indicators of the systems working, just in case no loose surfaces are available to test..
Cheers,
Marco
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diggerdave
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Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 18:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly, the rear diff isn't compromised at all and the actuator rod (a shaft with a tiny cog wheel on the end) is usually left sticking out of the diff housing when the housing and motor - in the form of fragments and powder - have been removed. If you're not careful, and just lay into the shaft with tool no.1 (because it's likely seized into place), the cog can be lost off the end and fall into the diff.
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