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New user hello and please advice on checking a used 95

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Andyk80
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
Posts: 54
Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 15:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

@MikeJak - I've had great results on my Uaz with Aquasteel.  Strip the rust off as much as possible.  If you get it to clean bright metal, then wipe it with a damp rag and wait 24 hours or so.  Basically you want a very very thin layer of surface rust.
Then do two coats of Aquasteel a day or two apart brushed on, and you'll get a nice black surface.  Rub that down slightly with 400 grit or so, then paint it and you're good to go.
I did my axles and chassis with eTech chassis paint, and I've just started doing my Colorado with the same method.  For bits that don't flex, I've used a couple of coats of Hammerite, followed by a few coats of the Hammerite underbody seal stuff to seal it.
For inside the chassis rails, I've used Dinitrol before with the long nozzle extension tube to kill the rust, then fill them with waxoyl as much as possible.
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 16:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tip Andy, Aquasteel looks like a good product and doesn’t cost a fortune, I like that they explain their chemistry quite openly, most products just pretend to be fairy dust. I don’t think there is a huge risk of cleaning to clean bare metal 😅 just hope to chase the rust as much as I can, ideally I would like to make the truck last a long time.
I’ve seen the dinitrol cans with the long spray tube, looks like a neat trick. Do you remember how many you needed for the chassis?
Planning on putting in the body lift in the next couple of month and treat the body mounts while doing that, once the body is lifted should be able to work around the chassis a little better I hope.
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Andyk80
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 17:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going for longevity, prep is key.  Aquasteel will result in a layer of converted rust that acts like a primer (all rust converters do the same).  If you paint it on to thick rust, you'll end up trapping rust under your paint which will make it worse in the long run.
Anywhere you can get an angle grinder in with wire wheels on it that will do the trick nicely.  A needle scaler is also excellent and a drill wire wheel will also work ok, but in really hard to reach bits, a sharp chisel is surprisingly effective.  Take it back as far as you can, get rid of every bit of loose or flaked rust you possibly can and then build it up with the converter and paint from there and you should get good results.
It took me the better part of the first lockdown to do the Uaz underbody.  Hours and hours of grinding and much filthy brown water in the shower each day  Laughing
I think from memory it was either 4 or 6 cans of Dinitrol.  The back of the chassis is almost always the worst, so focus there first and work forward.  Also, if you can, jetwash and/or compressor blast out the inside of the chassis and let it try before you do the dinitrol treatment.  Bits of it will be stuffed with loads of mud and rust and you'll want to clear that out to get the best from the Dinitrol.
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Andyk80
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 17:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

That should have been let it dry, not let it try  Laughing
One other thing - remove the fuel tank if you haven't already.  I found a section of the chassis that needs welding on mine that wasn't visible with the fuel tank in place, and a tonne of mud was trapped between the tank and the chassis, which was potentially the cause.
With the tank removed, the back end is a lot easier to get to.
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 17:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some great tips there! Thank you.
Yes, I’ll definitely aim for longevity. Luckily it’s pretty clean, the chassis only has some surface rust and no flaking inside. Even the rear cross member, the tank and tank guard are sound. Good point about liking above the tank… as soon as it’s a bit more empty I’ll have a look.

Treating the rear axle will be a big job to do in place…wish I had a big shed to take it out to work on it!

The more I look around the truck the more I think it must have had a pretty easy life so far…
Ah lots of work ahead! Noted about prepping surfaces…will be thorough!
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 17:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

The needle scaler is a super suggestion btw, can’t believe I had never heard of it!
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
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Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 18:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used Aquasteel for years, and always rated it.....until  a couple of years ago. I dont know if they have messed with the formula or what, but after my usual thorough wash down, dry out and  proper prep, it didn't go on/react like it should,
After doing part of the truck I wasn't happy and dumped it. This was a new 1ltr bottle from the UK suppliers, so no moody gear off e bay from China. Would never use it again !
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MikeJak
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 19:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hah…nothing better then contrasting reviews 😁
Reading from the Aquasteel website looks like they are quite strict about shelf life once bottles should not be over one year…could it have been outdated stock?
Must have been a pain having done half the truck… what did you use in the end?
Por15 seems to be the stuff I am reading the best unanimous reviews…
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 19:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, there's always gonna be conflicting views on everything mate, 🤔 What I had was dire, compared to the same product used many times before. I know it's runny anyway, but that seemed pi55 thin, and didn't really react as normal.
There was no date on the bottle and coming from the manufacturer/distributor, something holdings.
Fortuneatly I'd only done the rear load area on my current 120 after spending weeks on prep.
Karl, another 120 lad and I, were in the process of starting ours, and he tried some others out, and showed me the results, so we both settled on Granville, which looks similar but in our opinion much better. It covered better and used less too !
We both used different  products for other 'top' coats..
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 20:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always different opinions!
Yes, Granville was one of the other products I was reading about.. oh…I’ll have plenty of prep time before having to apply…

Looking at sorting wheels and tyres next week, current tires are pretty much all finished, the alloys have seen (much) better days and for pretty much the price of refurbishment I can get some steels with a wider offset.. one bit at a time.

Oh and new lower ball joints going on tomorrow evening!
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Andyk80
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 20:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm down to 1 and a half litres of my supply, so I'll give that Granville a shot, thanks for the suggestion!  All the Aquasteel I've ever had has looked like milk, and been something like the viscosity of thin sunflower oil.

I've just come in from working on my axle.  ARB off, tank off, backbox off, and I'll be pulling the exhaust mid section tomorrow night.  With all those, most of it can be hit with the angle grinder, and the chisel, drill brush and sandpaper should take care of the rest.  

Thankfully so far, the suspension mounts are looking nice and solid.  Fingers crossed I don't find anything else beyond the chassis section!

I've only used POR15 on the inside of fuel tanks so far so I couldn't speak on the other products.  Read mixed reviews about that too, but the Uaz tanks are still looking excellent inside 1.5 year after I did them!
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Andyk80
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 20:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you're on a similar journey to me!  I'm in the process of restoring the front seats and steering wheel, and I've got the head off and ported/polished as well.  Just waiting for the new turbo to arrive and I'll start putting all that back together.

Body/underbody wise I'm just working my way forward.  Have some seriously crusty rear light assemblies I need to track down replacements for, and a snapped connecting rod for the diff to chassis mounts.  In fairness though, for a 26 year old motor it's in really good nick!
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MikeJak
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 21:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hah seems there are a few of us on the same path!

For rear lights I just changed mine last weekend, bought from e bay, 17£ per side, the wiring needed some sorting as was assembled all wrong in the connector ( negative was the only one in the right spot) wirebut they seem pretty decent plastic. The clean chrome reflector made an enormous difference in brightness, really impressive.
They don’t come with the metal frame that goes on the inside of the bumper, mine is rusty but still ok..
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Andyk80
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lights sound promising.  The housings are shot to bits on mine, so I need to track down a pair of those too.

I saw the comments about the 80 series wheels above, very handy.  I've been looking for something suitable for mine (factory wide arch kit) for a while and was leaning toward the LC5 wheels, but I don't think they'll fill the arches properly.  Those 80 series wheels should work nicely.

I saw a comment about them rubbing the inner arches with 275 and above on them.  Has anyone ever fitted 265/75r16 front and 285/70r16 rear using those 80 series wheels before?  Will the back take that size of tyre?
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy, I think I have seen the holder frames for the rear lights on milners (or maybe on roughtrax…not sure now!)
I had to drill the original screws out to remove the lights, was a pretty easy job done from the outside after chiselling the rubber moulding of the lights. Had to swap the order of a few pins on the plug but was pretty simple to work out.

From my research about tyres so far seems best to have same tires all around (also for tire rotation and easy use of the spare. 265/75 16 seem to fit most with minimal rubbing and the arches seem fairly easy to trim or  tap in slightly. Most say any lift really helps with rubbing.

I looked at the 80 alloys but they seem very expensive everywhere I found them. I’m leaning towards steels 8j -20ET
The Colorado seems to have a different bore size (106.8) from the 80 so best practice would be adding a set of hub shim rings. Cheap and easy. Seems most steels would ideally need those too to make sure the wheel is nicely hubcentric
I still need to check the bore size on mine… forgot my to measure when I last had the wheels off.
I’m hoping Mitsubishi steels should fit
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