The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[Andyk80]

I've used wheel-size.com for checking fitment before and for my year Colorado (96) it claims the bore is 106.1, the same as the 80.  Mind you, I didn't realise you could get shim rings so that would sort that problem from the sound of things.

My build is mostly aimed at overland, and specifically towards driving to snowy places, so I'm looking to get as much surface area down as possible, without hiking the unsprung weight more than I have to.  I may well end up getting a set of steels as well though in the long run for local driving and green laning.  If you come across anything that works on yours, I'd be interested to hear about it!

[Google]

[MikeJak]

Had no idea about hub shim rings either…I’m learning lots since buying my 90…
my aim is similar, building a capable tourer, I already have a rooftop tent but needed a better vehicle under it.

I hear you about unsprung weight but when looking for steel wheels I realised that they don’t actually weight a lot more then alloys. Unless you go for really high load rated ones they weight about 3-4kg more then a same size alloy so not too bad.. I think

[Vagabond]

[MikeJak]

Didn’t have time to do the lower ball joints this evening…was a bit wishful…will be one for the weekend.. but I did check the bore size and it indeed it is 106mm. The good news is that the Mitsubishi steels with a centre bore of 108.5 will fit…hopefully! Ordering one to test out the offset. Apparently they are 13.5 kg not too bad for 8j

[Andyk80]

That's a good point Vagabond, I hadn't thought of that.  I was thinking of more grip at the rear, but have to keep reminding myself the LC is permanent 4x4 not RWD and part time 4x4.

[MikeJak]

I think it wouldn’t be an issue when the center lock is disengaged in H as the front and rear axles would be able to rotate at different speeds anyway but would cause imbalanced forces (windup) and scrub even driving in a straight line whenever the centre lock is engaged. Also if the plan is for overlanding I’d really want the spare to fit anywhere…

Anyone with experience of 8j wheels -20 et and possible issues?

[MikeJak]

Done the rear pads today, quick job.
And I test-fit the wheel that arrived yesterday. Perfect fit on the hub. I did order some hub rings but doubt they will actually fit. The wheel is an 16x8j 6x139.7 108.1 centre bore, -20 et. the edge of the rim is about 30mm inboard of the factory flare so 265/75 16 will likely have the shoulder protruding, will see, I may fit a strip of rubber arch extension if too obvious.

[img]https://share.icloud.com/photos/0a37AzKgeHmaGdNKyEa1adKzA[/img]

[img]https://share.icloud.com/photos/055KECwK7n3rXRER1AhBF7T_A[/img]

[img]https://share.icloud.com/photos/032YqWOe4DNCOoyrfy0jgwHsA[/img]

4more to order, some nuts and then some tires to go on them!

Also as I was in the area I had a good look above the tank and in the chassis.. all looking good.

My h-hl-n-ll selector is a bit stiff once you go on n and low locked. It all engages anybody know if the prongs may need some greasing to go smoother in and out of low range?

[Andyk80]

They do look decent.  Are they the Mitsi wheels you mentioned?

[diggerdave]

You may find the selector level frees up a little with use, but they are quite stiff by design. There is a pivot point immediately below the lever - you could try greasing that, I guess - but I think the stiffness comes after that when the bottom of the lever has to shift two long metal shafts that lead into the transfer box.
_________________
1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles

[MikeJak]

Thanks Dave, I’ll have a look as soon as I get around taking apart the top console, I bet a little biter of silicone grease in the forks will help.
Yes Andy those are Mitsubishi sized rims, at 60£ each are a good option and beside the price I really like the look… -20 should be a good tracking improvement.

I was about to fit the rear anti rollbars bushings from milners.. but they are not open…looks like a long way to slip them in…anyone fitted them without cutting them?

[locodriver65]

Hi,
I have just purchased anti roll bar bush kit from Milners part Number 004630k.

These are split to fit on the bar.    Thats odd    Is your bar 25mm or 26mm?    Mine is 25mm  1997 LC


regards

Paul

[locodriver65]

HI again.
Take no notice of my last post, the bushes I have are for the front.

Paul

[MikeJak]

Thanks Paul, I ordered both sets for the front and rear, mine is a 2001 so 26 front bar, and like yours the bushing is split to slip over the bar directly where you want them…
The rear is a 15mm bar but oddly the bushings are not split.. all the other bushings I could find on line seem to be cut to fit on the bar… taking a hacksaw to the bushing wouldn’t be a major deal but want to make sure I’m not missing a trick…
I’ll message Milner off road and report back..

[MikeJak]

Milner just got back to me and confirmed that the rear anti roll bar bushing should be in fact split, just like the front ones. Easily done with a hacksaw.

[MikeJak]

Just waiting for new tires to be delivered and fitted this week, been doing small jobs around the truck, checked vacuum and coolant tubing around the engine bay. Tried to change one of the lower ball joints but -for now- it won.. 3 different cheap extractors bent or broken trying to break the ball joint apart…hopefully the fork one will work out easier but it’s at work so will try this week..not as straightforward as I was hoping… on the plus side the old ball joint has zero play… still going to change the B@/&-3d…