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Loud Knocking Sound When Releasing Accelerator Pedal

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nicolascarlo
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Joined: 05 Apr 2019
Posts: 29
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2022 15:31    Post subject: Loud Knocking Sound When Releasing Accelerator Pedal Reply with quote

Hi everyone!

This has been driving me nuts. It's been constant trips to the garage since I got brake calipers changed a couple of months ago.

When going at speeds of between 40 and 50 mph, when I release the accelerator pedal, I hear a loud knocking sound coming from the rear. This is not suspension-related.

There are a lot of issues happening at the same time:

- the parking brake does not release if applied. The lever goes down but the vehicle does not move when on D.
- the vehicle pulls to the right, indicating the rear right wheel dragging.
- the rear right rotor is EXTREMELY hot to the touch after driving for 5 minutes.

A month or so ago, I had the internal parts in the drum? of the parking brake as they'd broken off into pieces replaced and with that I was hopeful that this issue would be fixed. But seems it hasn't.

Anyone here know what this could be or faced similar issues?

The vehicle is at the garage right now but I am not too hopeful they'll find the correct issue and actually fix the problem. They've "fixed" the issue twice already.
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2022 16:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Nico I strongly feel your problem in the rear knocking sound is that your propshafts needs greasing , the uni joints x4 niples need lith grease number 2 , and the sliding joints x2 niples which are the cause of the knocking in my opinion must be greased with moly lith grease number 2 , some folk think you can hydro lock the sliding joint if you over grease them , that is not true if they get too much grease they will push out the excess when you drive it . If the sliding joints are short of grease the propshaft  will slop in and out when you release the gas peddle or when you stop the car suddenly due to lack of grease .
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2022 16:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nico if your sliding  joints are dry you will need to pump in at least 200 g of moly lith greace in each sliding joint , in the uni joints pump in with lith grease until you see clean grease come out of the uni joints as that will show the  grease has got to all the parts it needs to , you can then wipe the excess grease off with a rag etc , if you go to a garage to have it done tell them to do as I suggest , as most cars today do not have grease nipples  to service them such jobs are not known to be needed to be done by young mechanics so are clueless to such servicing 😃.
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2022 22:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top advice from Tony as ever!

Basic question - is your handbrake correctly adjusted on both wheels?
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Beekeeper
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Joined: 16 Feb 2022
Posts: 38
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2022 22:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience, and this is not with the Landcruiser as I've not had mine long, other things to consider include:
Failed Universal joint - if the needle rollers have started to run dry, rust, or break up then no amount of grease will save them,
Seized handbrake cable - not sure if the LC is prone to this but some vehicles certainly are,
Seized brake caliper - I've replaced three calipers on cars in the last year because of the red hot disc issue, shouldn't happen to a new one but check the sliding pins,
Detached brake shoe lining, broken or detached brake shoe retainers.
Collapsed brake hose retaining pressure - a long shot this one

Most are easy enough to identify but there could be more than one.  Glad to see the UJ's are replaceable, there was a fashion for staking them in which meant a propshaft replacement.  I remember replacing one on a Triumph in a B&B car park in the Highlands using a socket set, hammer and pliers in 1985.  Still have the Triumph although unsure if it will ever run again.
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nicolascarlo
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Joined: 05 Apr 2019
Posts: 29
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 6:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Tony, Karl and Beekeeper.

The mechanic found that the brake shoe was missing some pins? And basically loose. Potentially pointing to what Beekeeper was saying.

I’ll check for the prop shaft for grease and ask them to check the parking brake adjustments as well (which was another thing they thought was off) while it’s on the ramp.

I’ll keep you posted.
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nicolascarlo
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Joined: 05 Apr 2019
Posts: 29
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update.

Apparently, parking brake shoe was missing the spring that it needs so had quite a bit of play in it which was theoretically resulting in the parking brake not releasing in the rear right wheel.

Seems like putting this spring in is not straight forward and the mechanic's been at it for 10 hours (yesterday and today)...

I'm not sure what to make of it.

I gave up searching for a specialized garage that deals with Landcruisers in central Scotland but maybe i should pick that search up again.
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nicolascarlo
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Joined: 05 Apr 2019
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 17:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another update.

They fixed the spring situation but now the parking brake cable is too tight and doesn't release.

Back to square one!
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 18:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you adjust it at the handbrake?
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nicolascarlo
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Joined: 05 Apr 2019
Posts: 29
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 18:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once pulled, it doesn’t release until you drive in reverse. And even then partially keeps it tight. To release it, you have to take the whole thing off and loosen it. So they’re going to put in a new cable now. And new springs on both sides.
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 19:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can understand how the cable might stretch but not shrink!
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 19:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

These rear parking brakes are a *** to assemble to say the least, especially the short retaining/centralising cranked rod, pushed through the shoes from the backplate with a short spring and retaining clip fitted on it between the shoe and hub.
If these are not fitted correctly, the shoes can move around, rather than be central.
I dont know what spring he had trouble with as there are several different ones in there, but 10 hours on 1 spring - I wouldn't pay him ! Sounds like he has little experience of how they fit and started changing parts in desperation. Is the bottom spring connecting the shoes, fitted from the back of the shoe's and not the front, and the top spring fitted the right way round ?
Are the adjusters working correctly ?
Can't see it's the handbrake cable, as over time they may stretch, giving more play rather than hold the brake on.
Good luck mate.
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 19:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

👍 Crossed posts there Karl.  Agree !👍
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nicolascarlo
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Joined: 05 Apr 2019
Posts: 29
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 7:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies Karl and Tractionman.

Either I'm doing a poor job at explaining (highly likely) or the mechanic doesn't know what he's talking about (also very likely).

It's the short spring with the retaining clip that he had trouble with and was explaining something about using zip ties to place the spring, etc.

I wouldn't be surprised if he didn't know what he was doing at all. The issue is the car can't be safely moved. This is the last thing I'm trying and then getting it towed home and then taking it to a garage that works on land cruisers. I bought this vehicle to work on it myself but I've gotten so busy with work that I don't have any time. This makes me wonder whether it's time to move on to the 150  Shocked
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's the spring that is apita !
Zip ties ? I presume he means as a temporary measure to hold in place, NOT a permanent item.
TBH, I can't see it working or the gain, as there is minimal space to work with fingers anyway, and you can work with a screwdiver/long nosed pliers through one of the brake adjuster holes in the hub to locate after fitting, but the whole thing is a tight and fiddly process.
Presumably the brakes have worked ok until your recent problems ? If so, I don't understand how the spring could be missing.
Come adrift ? Possible I suppose, but any loose items would have dropped out when the combined disc/drum was taken off.
To give you, and your mech? a better understanding than I can explain, take a look at Fourby4diesels on YouTube.
He covers everything 120 in an easy to understand manner as he's doing it - *beep* ups and all ! 🤣.
There is a section on the rear brakes that he does with new shoes, both sides in a day, NOT just a forking spring !!
Moving to a 150 ? hmmm... you will still have this trouble to fix before selling the 120, and if it's a good un, keep it !
150's in my opinion will not be any appreciable gain, except age wise, as you will be starting all over again with an unknown, some problems associated with the 120. Of course if your 120 has many many problems that can be very expensive, move on.
Only you can decide.  Take a look at what the older cruiser guys cope with to keep their motors rolling  90 series for instance.
If you get yours towed home, even though your busy, you could rectify yourself easily at a weekend. Dont let the combined disc/drum arrangement frighten you, it is only a disc set up and a drum set up, 2 seperate systems
Just my honest opinion.
Good luck mate.
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