The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[TONYCY11]

The torque specs are injector pipes if refitting the same fuel pipes its 35Nm if fitting new pipes its 32Nm , fuel return washes x4 16Nm the 5th on the back corner 13Nm if you are removing the injectors if so you will need a 15 to 16mm wide  x300mm long wood dowel to place rags around and spray carbon cleaner on the rags to  clean the injector ports to a mirror finnish so the the new seats do not leak past any dirt . Injector Hold down clamp bolts 22Nm , the small clamps that hold the injector pipes around the egr cooler are 5 Nm , the camcover is 13Nm , you can buy the fuel return pipe washers and cam cover gasket from Milners much cheaper than Toyota dealers , you do not need to buy new gaskets for the egr joints or manifold as they are s/steel with a black coating I reused mine just be gentle with them the intake manifold bolts to head is  22Nm and the egr bolts at their joints  are 13Nm , if I have missed any thing out let me know , hope that helps .

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[MisterCruiser]

[MisterCruiser]

Thanks for the replies, I'll probably go ahead and remove the cam cover then so. It's not the work in removing it I was trying to avoid, I just didn't want to disturb it if there is no possibility of sludge being in there to check for. No point making work for myself, there's enough to do already, haha.



I removed the throttle body and EGR valve this morning, see pics, and also the Intake manifold is the next thing I'll be removing as it needs cleaning too, looks pretty bad.

Lot's of dismantling to look forward to, have to start taking fuel lines off, the Egr cooler, etc.. etc... I'll probably leave that until the evenings during the week..



Can anyone tell me things I'll need to order for reassembly:

​Erg valve gasket

Intake manifold gasket (Can this be typically reused or should I just get new?)

I see in FourbyFour videos there's a banjo bolt fuel washer to replace too.

One time use injector pipes (I'll be reusing as another member said. I have reused these on other cars too and no problem)

Anything else I need I'd appreciate the heads up in advance.

[TONYCY11]

The banjo bolts washers are the fuel return washers that I mentioned . Toyota state you can reuse the fuel pipes onto the same injectors upto 3 times , new injectors need new pipes or you risk leaks . You reuse all the egr and inlet manifold gaskets if you do not damage them .looks to me that you have a lot of PCV oil from the camcover pipe and it has washed all that dirty oil and washed the built up carbon from the egr valve and its elbow and pushed all into the inlet manifold . When I cleaned out my egr valve to the manifold at 70k miles my egr valve and elbow had much more carbon build up stuck to the egr valve and elbow enough to fill a breakfast cereal dish and it was very much dryer than your very wet build  up , and my inlet manifold was clear and a waste of time me taking it off . Since cleaning my egr I fitted a full blanking plate at the engine side and deleted the egr from the ecu so no more chance of carbon build up .

[TONYCY11]

When you have refitted the turbo and cleaned the inlet including egr and manifold it would be wise to change the map filter as it will be sure to be dirty and could also be cracked that is fitted between the egr valve and the map sensor , changing it to a new one will give an accurate reading for the proper operation of the commands from the map sensor to the ecu for the  turbo .

[MisterCruiser]

The map sensor filter is news to me. Can you tell me where it is in these 2 pics if its present?

[TONYCY11]

Its the small grey barrel fixed into the C clip with a inlet vacume pipe and a outlet vacume pipe   in the first pic that you are holding in your hand , when fitting the new one do not fit the pipes wrong way round because inside the hole from the inlet (coming from the throttle body ) is smaller than the hole going to the map sensor , if I can remember early 120s like yours had a white outlet pipe and top lid going to the map sensor and the inlet pipe is grey like the rest of its body , the later year 120s have a black outlet lid and pipe with grey inlet pipe matching the rest of its body .

[MisterCruiser]

I see what you are referencing, cheers for confirming, I'll have a look and see it's state out of interest and I'll order a new one anyway as you suggest.

[Tractionman]

Spot on Tony.
The newer ones seem to be white, Karl and I have just replaced ours, as they often get overlooked.
Just a glorified tea bag that soaks up any oily mist. 😀
I did clean out mine with brake cleaner and LOW pressure on the airline, before replacing with new, although I never had any trouble before or after. Just a routine servicing thing like other filters.

[TONYCY11]

fully agree as its a maintenance item and with  mistercruisers turbo blowing all that black oil through the inlet his map filter will be very dirty or could even be cracked due to been blocked ( many end up cracked ) and likely need changing .

[Tractionman]

From all the pictures supplied, it looks like the previous owner has not been kind to that 120, filthy engine, heavy rust, it needs some serious tlc in all areas after turbo is done, including a full service and parts.

[TONYCY11]

Looks that way . The oil on the parts looks really old , black and dirty , looks like its had very little maintenance in its life .

[MisterCruiser]

Yeah, I agree, the last owner seems to have done nothing maintenance wise to it, typical farmer. I can't get over how it got to the stage of needing so much doing at the same time without failing yearly tests along the way, and needing some of the work done between tests, etc...
However I got it at a good price and I think it's worth saving and wanted a project so here we are.

My plan is do the turbo which I have fitted it reconditioned back on now btw.
I've also replaced pass side CV outer boot which naturally resulted in a new drop link, inner driveshaft diff oil seal, knuckle outer dust seal and new diff oil.

I'm servicing it as I go, new air filter fitted with turbo.
Also renewed the metal crankcase ventilation pipe and the wee rubber elbow host at the top of this pipe which goes into the cam cover breather. A previous owner had wrapped the cracked elbow hose with insulation tape, for the sake of €13  
Oil + filter will be renewed too but not yet as I'm working on the intake side of the engine now and am taking the filter off to aid access, had it removed to get a intake mani bolt out, and screwing it back on at night to keep dirt out.
I'll replace the fuel filter too.

I got the EGR cooler off tonight, the glow plug rail and the insulation padding between the intake / engine block. This insulation was a complete mess, it's saturated with old oil and disintegrated, so I picked out the big bits and blew it all off with the air line, I wanted to get all this off before I go undoing the injectors / fuel stuff. I also degreased and cleaned the engine a bit in preparation for removing the fuel pipes tomorrow night. Some of them look awkward access wise underneath the intake.
I managed to get 2 nuts and 3 bolts removed from the intake manifold without removing any injector pipes yet, can someone tell me is there just 1 bolt left? Is there 6 fixings holding it on in total, 4 bolts and 2 nuts at either end. I can't get the "last" bolt due to the cluster of fuel pipes blocking it.


I cleaned my Egr valve, when I test it with 2 different vacuum pumps it's not working, the diaphram inside must have failed. I can move the plunger by manual force so it's not seized.  I'll probably just re-fit it, or fit a blank kit? I'm not buying a new one anyway that's for sure. My question here though is what does the 2nd vacuum nipple on the EGR valve do? There's 2 nipples on it and I'm wondering if my plan to refit it broken will affect whatever the other vacuum nipple operates? I'd appreciate any suggestions of what to do here, I don't want to map it out (cost reasons) I'm guessing the EML doesn't remain on on this era cruiser with the Egr blanked? Well it wasn't on with it broken anyway.

[TONYCY11]

I dont know much about the earlier 120s inlet manifold but the inlet manifold on the later 120s have 4 bolts and 2 nuts , 2 vacume pipes marked green and white and one  wider pipe , a bracket at the bottom that holds a black electric connector that you slide the connector  off when you pull the manifold back a couple of inches , a banjo type washer that is supposed single use for the fuel return pipe ,and brackets for the glow plugs .  As for the nipples on the egr  on mine one is for the vacume pipe that goes to the map filter and the other is for the operation of body of the plastic diafram . I can not remember any others apart from the 2 one marked pink and one marked yellow that operates the diafram on the egr cooler bracket that operates the flap before the egr gas goes to the egr valve body .

[MisterCruiser]

Thanks for the help Tony. So the diaphragm within the EGR valve unit operates both the Egr valve plunger itself and also the Map filter, if I'm reading you correctly. If my EGR diaphragm is broken, the vacuum from it to the Map filter isn't going to work either; does this matter much? What effect will this have, nothing too significant?