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Rear Door switch?


 
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garystockton
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Location: Edinburgh, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 12:10    Post subject: Rear Door switch? Reply with quote

Hi all,

Does anyone know if the two types of rear door on a 120 are switchable without too much hassle?  I've a LC5 with the spare underslung, and want to replace the existing rear door with one from an LC3 that has the spare mount on it.

Are there any specific support points required internally to brace the door that may not be there?

Any other advice please?

Cheers

Gary
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uk_vette
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 16:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Gary,

I am sure I read a post on Pradopoint about a guy who had done this.

As far as i remember, he got a full door from a breakers, same colour silver and everything.
I can't remember too much, but I don't think there was any problems though.

I will try to find the post.

Little off topic, I am planning on fitting an additional spare wheel for my LS3.
I will keep the one on the rear roor, and just get the required bits from a scrapper, for the underslung stuff.

Is that your plan, 2 carry 2 spares?

'vette
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 16:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi 'vette

Yep - I will usually carry just the one spare, probably on the door, for day-to-day use, but when we go to Morocco or wherever I want to put one on the door and the other under-slung again.  The suspension lift is under discussion with Julia, so clearance shouldn't be an issue, especially when off-road and I've lifted the rear using the AHC button!!

Cheers
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marlot
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

LCs with door mounted spares have lights in the bumper (so they can be seen when the door is open) so in theory you could hit an MOT problem.  In practice I doubt the tester would notice.

There was a breaker selling a pair of lightly damaged rear doors on e bay recently.
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads-up. I knew about the ruling - if it's because of the open door then it's a tad weird because that would happen anyway. I thought it was because you needed to be able to see both sets of lights from a 45 degree angle from the rear! Anyway, I also believe that ruling is falling away. And I guess with so much confusion the MOT ttester won't know either Smile

Cheers
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jvoelcker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gary,

How bizarre, I had a customer asking that just a couple of days ago.

As far as I can tell the doors should be interchangeable, but would need to double check your VIN with that of the donor vehicle.  There certainly doesn't seem to be any differences in hinges, etc which you would think there would be bearing in mind the heavier weight.
_________________
Cheers,

Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene Smile
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs.
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Julian.  I'll try and get the VIN, although this is from a  breaker, so may be difficult to do.  It's the right door, colour, everything and is complete with all fittings and glass, so may just make an offer ...  Laughing Seems all I'll need to do is take one off and put the other one on, and connect the wiring loom up again.  Wink
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dolder
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 22:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be reluctant to get the door with the wheel mounted on it, we had a LC5 and at two years old Toyota had to replace the rear door, as it was split about 18" or for the metric 45cm at top and bottom along the seam next to the hinge, the door had dropped about 1 1/2cm at the closure side. It's a common problem with the wheel mounted on the rear door. As soon as Toyota saw this they indicated it wasn't the first.
We have another LC now and am very pleased that the spare wheel is underslung, it's so much lighter!
I would suggest get a roof rack and mount it up there if you need a second spare wheel.
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uk_vette
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 6:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,
I have heard similar, however the cause for the door failure is when people open the door, and allow it to swing open until it is stopped by the lower and only restraint.

This splits the door skins.

I was told long time ago, when opening the rear door,
DONT LET IT SWING ALL THE WAY OPEN AGAINST THE RESTRAINT STOP.

'vette
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jojo1
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 20:26    Post subject: rear door Reply with quote

The only problem I've had with my rear door is with the latch. As it's partially electronic, it eventually got fed up with sand and dust ingress and refused to open. Managed to get it open by applying firm pressure on door panel with left hand (adjacent to handle) and pulling handle quckly with right hand. Once the door was open, I stripped down the mechanism and gave it a good clean. All OK now.

No problems with door hinges. The car has done many thousands of kms with a spare tyre casing strapped to the spare wheel & tyre.

Jojo
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jojo1
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 22:15    Post subject: rear door Reply with quote

The only problem I've had with my rear door is with the latch. As it's partially electronic, it eventually got fed up with sand and dust ingress and refused to open. Managed to get it open by applying firm pressure on door panel with left hand (adjacent to handle) and pulling handle quckly with right hand. Once the door was open, I stripped down the mechanism and gave it a good clean. All OK now.

No problems with door hinges. The car has done many thousands of kms with a spare tyre casing strapped to the spare wheel & tyre.

Jojo
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