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Grinding done, wheels on, no mishaps.


 
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uk_vette
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Location: Warrington, Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 14:35    Post subject: Grinding done, wheels on, no mishaps. Reply with quote

Anyway, all done now, no mishaps, photos to follow.

Less to grind off than I originally thought  Very Happy

1mm off the bottom of the caliper and 1,5 - 2mm off the top, this is not a constant across the whole top of the caliper, as it is radiused to follow the radius of the inner rim.

I had the fronts on and off maybe 6 times each! Shocked

Rim on, turn the rim, take it off, look for the paint on the caliper, grind the paint away, about  0,2mm each time, wheel back on, spin the wheel, take it off, look for the paint marks again, grind againabout  0,2 repeat,
repeat,  Rolling Eyes
repeat, Rolling Eyes  
repeat,  Rolling Eyes
now my arms are really tired ! gpd them wheels just get heavier! Very Happy


Original LC wheels are 30mm offset, these are 5 mm offset, so I get a plus 25mm outboard stance,

'vette
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 14:35    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Wandering Willy
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 14:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done!

Willy
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uk_vette
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 18:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Willy,
When I tried the wheels on yesterday, I could have swore blind that there was a 6 - 7mm gap between the front face of the hub, and the rear face of the rin,
Now today, in the daylight, I could see there was maybe 2mm gap, and I could quite easily close it up by tightening just 2 oposing wheel nuts.
Sure it fouled the caliper, but thats my marks now anyway.

So, I didn't hace to grind off as much as I originally thought.
Here is a top shot of one of the calipers untouched.
.

.
And the same caliper from underneath.
.

.
Grinding the cast iron is all too easy, and it was a case of take off a litte each time, as it's damn hard to put it back on again, Shocked  Shocked  Shocked
.
Top grind.
.

.
Bottom grind.
.

.
There was as I originally said, less to take off at the bottom, the bottom was done in one go.
The top was a persistant 'catcher'
Like I said earlier, wheel on, pull the wheel quarter turn, it was wery tight at first, then take the wheel off.
The black paint was very easy to see on the shiny exposed top grind of the caliper.
Did a bit of a grind to remove the paint, refit the wheel, pull the wheel quarter turn, again.
then take the wheel off., look for the black paint, and grind the paint off.

This went on 5 or 6 times.

Result !


.

.

.

.

'vette
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 12:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bit late now, but here's another tech write up:

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Wandering Willy
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 14:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a small point.

The clearance created by grinding off the outside of the calipers is still fairly small. The wheels do flex a little (0.5 - 1.0 mm?) when the car is braking and cornering.

If there are signs of contact between wheel and caliper, you might want to remove a little more metal. Painting the outside of the caliper now with some car cellulose would put about 0.1mm back on but the paint would show signs of contact more clearly than the cast iron.

Willy
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uk_vette
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 17:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wandering Willy wrote:
Just a small point.

The clearance created by grinding off the outside of the calipers is still fairly small. The wheels do flex a little (0.5 - 1.0 mm?) when the car is braking and cornering.

If there are signs of contact between wheel and caliper, you might want to remove a little more metal. Painting the outside of the caliper now with some car cellulose would put about 0.1mm back on but the paint would show signs of contact more clearly than the cast iron.

Willy

/
Quite correct again willy,
I found that to be the case.
I  would just get as far as the corner of the close, and have to return for another grind.

The wheels certainly do flex.

'vette
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